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Glider electrics etc



 
 
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  #11  
Old February 6th 20, 12:38 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Tim Newport-Peace[_6_]
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Posts: 65
Default Glider electrics etc

At 00:24 06 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 22:06:34 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:

At 19:52 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 18:04:13 +0000, Benedict Smith wrote:

At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace
wrote:
.

I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the
more so
as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the
radio end.

This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work
OK, and so
it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because
otherwise
the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to
slide
out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio.

I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original
cable
is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm
not keen
on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no
better
electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not
least, I
don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either.


--
If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply

wrap
it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be

totally
waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to
disconnect it.
Ben.

Sounds good to me. Thanks.

--
Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org


I have always prefered Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape.

But getting back to the original posting, we should never recommend
Belling-Lee and only use where there is no alternative.

Tim Newport-Peace
http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm


Agreed - obviously an extra 50cm of uncut cable with just a BNF on the
end would be a lot better, but, as I said, I really don't want to mess
about with soldering etc in mid-air on a piece of cable that comes out
near the front end of the right side instrument panel support channel.

However, if you can point me at a description of how to to use
'Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape' after, presumably, soldering the


internal wire ends together, that would be interesting to know. Would it
be easier than making upo some sort of clip to lock the B-L halves
together?


I had in mind sleving the Belling Lee with Heatshrink and the internal glue
will seal to the outer of the co-ax eat each end. That should be
moisture-proof. I would Never suggest splicing co-ax.

However, another possible solution would be to use:
https://tinyurl.com/tseyff8 or similar. No Soldering required.

I don't particularly like these, but I like Belling Lee even less. At least
you will be using a 50Ohm connector which is moisture proof.


Tim Newport-Peace
http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm

  #12  
Old February 6th 20, 02:28 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
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Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Thu, 06 Feb 2020 11:38:38 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:

I had in mind sleving the Belling Lee with Heatshrink and the internal
glue will seal to the outer of the co-ax eat each end. That should be
moisture-proof. I would Never suggest splicing co-ax.

Ah Ha! A simple fix that never occurred to me.
Sticky heat-shrink ordered.
Thanks.

--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

  #13  
Old February 6th 20, 03:19 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Tim Newport-Peace[_6_]
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Posts: 65
Default Glider electrics etc

At 13:28 06 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Thu, 06 Feb 2020 11:38:38 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:

I had in mind sleving the Belling Lee with Heatshrink and the internal
glue will seal to the outer of the co-ax eat each end. That should be
moisture-proof. I would Never suggest splicing co-ax.

Ah Ha! A simple fix that never occurred to me.
Sticky heat-shrink ordered.
Thanks.

--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

Don't be in too much of a hurry. Let the warmer weather(?) dry out any
moisture present or you will just be sealing the moisture in ;¬)

Tim Newport-Peace
http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm

  #14  
Old February 6th 20, 04:50 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
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Posts: 100
Default Glider electrics etc

Are you talking about a a disconnect on a wire going to a GPS antenna ?
Sorry about my ignorance regarding anything electrical.
Dan
  #15  
Old February 6th 20, 05:54 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
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Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Thu, 06 Feb 2020 07:50:40 -0800, crosscountryboxco wrote:

Are you talking about a a disconnect on a wire going to a GPS antenna ?
Sorry about my ignorance regarding anything electrical.

No, we're talking abut the radio antenna.


--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

  #16  
Old February 6th 20, 06:32 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
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Posts: 100
Default Glider electrics etc

Thanks !
What about cutting and reconnecting (quick disconnect) the GPS antenna wires. What connector would you use ?
Dan
  #18  
Old February 6th 20, 07:12 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Dan Marotta
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Posts: 4,601
Default Glider electrics etc

On GPS antennae, for what it's worth:

I opened a GPS puck antenna used for my PowerFlarm Portable, unsoldered
the wires, cut the coax to the required length and soldered the center
conductor and shield to the correct locations. I often had GPS dropouts
on the Flarm.Â* I recently removed that antenna and, using the internal
antenna on the portable unit, have had no more drop outs.Â* Just sayin'...

On 2/6/2020 10:32 AM, wrote:
Thanks !
What about cutting and reconnecting (quick disconnect) the GPS antenna wires. What connector would you use ?
Dan


--
Dan, 5J
  #19  
Old February 6th 20, 10:38 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
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Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Thu, 06 Feb 2020 09:32:50 -0800, crosscountryboxco wrote:

Thanks !
What about cutting and reconnecting (quick disconnect) the GPS antenna
wires. What connector would you use ?


I suppose that depends on what you're connecting the GPS antenna to and
what sort of connection it uses.

My RedBox FLARM has a BNF socket for the GPS puck connection. The
supplied puck had way to much wire for my installation, so I cut the wire
on a Gilsson puck down to 150mm (6") and soldered a right-angle BNF plug
onto it. The FLARM system works perfectly.

OTOH my EW logger uses a small brass? gold-plated? screw-on antenna
connection. I didn't have ant replacements, so this time I wound the
excess cable up into a neat 'donut' secured with a couple of cable ties,
clipped the supplied ferrite core over the logger end, connected it all
up and again it works very well.


--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

  #20  
Old February 6th 20, 11:40 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
John DeRosa OHM Ω http://aviation.derosaweb.net
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Posts: 276
Default Glider electrics etc

Thanks for pointing to my presentation on wiring at http://aviation.derosaweb.net/presentations/#wiring. Please let me know if there are corrections to be made (and there are ALL-WAYS corrections to be made).

Also, not to toot my own horn too loudly, but I will be speaking on this topic at the 2020 SSA Convention in Little Rock, Arkansas on Saturday, Feb 22 at 1:30PM in Ballroom B. I really don't want to find myself speaking only to the hotel security staff so I truly hope to see and meet all of you there!

- John DeRosa OHM Ω
 




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