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Glider electrics etc



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 5th 20, 11:21 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Colin Roney
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Posts: 56
Default Glider electrics etc

I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider
electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen
to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any
ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand
the subject.



  #2  
Old February 5th 20, 12:32 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
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Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:21:13 +0000, Colin Roney wrote:

I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and
navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the
situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to
try and understand the subject.


I'll be at the club this Saturday (AM LPA duty) if the airfield is dry
enough to be usable. We can talk then if that suits you and I can bring
my panel up as well if you'd like to look at it.

When I got my Libelle, I rebuilt its panel so that:

- The panel is easy to remove from the glider.

- It connects to the power lead from the battery via an XLR plug.
The radio-related connections to a PTT on the stick and mic +
speaker on the cockpit sidewall use small round connectors with
retaining screw rings. The antenna has a Belling-Lee flying
connector to the built-in glider antenna cable.
Lastly, I use a quick-disconnect on the pneumatics (static, TE, pitot).

- I used XLR connectors for all main power connections.

- I fitted quick-blow fuses at the battery and at the panel.

- Everything in the panel that uses power has connectors (D-9 or D-15)
so that any instrument can be removed without cutting wires or
(un)soldering.

- all interconnects and the 12v-5v converter, which powers the Medion
PNA that runs LK8000, are inside a small metal box with ferrites on
the power lead for the PNA.

- once all instruments are out, the remaining wiring can also be removed
without cutting wires or unsoldering.

- NO BARE CONTACTS visible.

The ASW-20 I used to have was a nightmare behind the panel, with all
connectors soldered onto a couple of tag strips which were not easily
removable, had no insulation whatever and were was not labelled. There
were no fuses on the panel. I learned what not to do from that and got
some better ideas, especially having an interconnection box from looking
at Alan Head's neat wiring in his glider.


--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

  #3  
Old February 5th 20, 12:55 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Dan Daly[_2_]
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Posts: 718
Default Glider electrics etc

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 5:30:05 AM UTC-5, Colin Roney wrote:
I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider
electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen
to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any
ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand
the subject.


The best I've seen is John DeRosa's http://aviation.derosaweb.net/presentations/#wiring . A lot of other great content on his site.

Dan
  #4  
Old February 5th 20, 03:29 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Tim Newport-Peace[_6_]
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Posts: 65
Default Glider electrics etc

At 11:32 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:21:13 +0000, Colin Roney wrote:

I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and
navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct the
situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in order to
try and understand the subject.


Snip
The antenna has a Belling-Lee flying
connector to the built-in glider antenna cable.

I would argue very much against the use of Belling-Lee connectors. For a
start they are not Moisture-Proof and moisture between inner and outer
conductors gives ****-poor performance.

Use BNC (or TNC) antenna connectors assuming your cable is UR43 or similar.
But whatever you use, it must provide an air-tight seal, connected or not.
  #5  
Old February 5th 20, 05:34 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
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Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:

At 11:32 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:21:13 +0000, Colin Roney wrote:

I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider electrics and
navigation installation stuff but I am very keen to try and correct
the situation. Does anyone have any ideas for suggested reading in
order to try and understand the subject.


Snip
The antenna has a Belling-Lee flying
connector to the built-in glider antenna cable.

I would argue very much against the use of Belling-Lee connectors. For a
start they are not Moisture-Proof and moisture between inner and outer
conductors gives ****-poor performance.

Use BNC (or TNC) antenna connectors assuming your cable is UR43 or
similar.
But whatever you use, it must provide an air-tight seal, connected or
not.

I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the more so
as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the radio end.

This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work OK, and so
it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because otherwise
the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to slide
out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio.

I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original cable
is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm not keen
on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no better
electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not least, I
don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either.


--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

  #6  
Old February 5th 20, 05:39 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 281
Default Glider electrics etc


ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand
the subject.


Perhaps not an introduction, but reading selected sections of AC43.13 -1 and -2 is a fair knowledge base.

I'd also second John DeRosa's web site.
  #7  
Old February 5th 20, 07:04 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Benedict Smith
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Posts: 30
Default Glider electrics etc

At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace

wrote:
.

I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the

more so
as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the

radio end.

This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work

OK, and so
it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because

otherwise
the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to

slide
out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio.

I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original

cable
is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm

not keen
on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no

better
electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not

least, I
don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either.


--

If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply
wrap it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would
be totally waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did
need to disconnect it.
Ben.

  #8  
Old February 5th 20, 08:52 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
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Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 18:04:13 +0000, Benedict Smith wrote:

At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace

wrote:
.

I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the

more so
as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the

radio end.

This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work

OK, and so
it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because

otherwise
the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to

slide
out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio.

I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original

cable
is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm

not keen
on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no

better
electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not

least, I
don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either.


--

If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply wrap
it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be totally
waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to
disconnect it.
Ben.


Sounds good to me. Thanks.

--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

  #9  
Old February 5th 20, 11:05 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
2G
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,439
Default Glider electrics etc

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 2:30:05 AM UTC-8, Colin Roney wrote:
I admit I am a total dummy when it comes to glider
electrics and navigation installation stuff but I am very keen
to try and correct the situation. Does anyone have any
ideas for suggested reading in order to try and understand
the subject.


The FAA has several aviation maintenance technician handbooks that are excellent and, better yet, they're FREE:
https://www.faa.gov/regulations_poli...uals/aircraft/
Ch. 12 of the general handbook and Ch. 9 of Vol. 1 cover electrical subjects.

Tom
  #10  
Old February 6th 20, 01:24 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 699
Default Glider electrics etc

On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 22:06:34 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace wrote:

At 19:52 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 18:04:13 +0000, Benedict Smith wrote:

At 16:34 05 February 2020, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 14:29:32 +0000, Tim Newport-Peace
wrote:
.

I realise having an inline Belling-Lee connector isn't ideal, the
more so
as it only connects to a 50cm extension with a BNF plug on the
radio end.

This setup was in the Libelle when I bought it, seems to work
OK, and so
it has stayed there. The short extension is necessary because
otherwise
the cable wouldn't reach the radio, let alone allow the panel to
slide
out far enough to connect or disconnect it from the radio.

I've thought about replacing it, but the free end of the original
cable
is in under the front coaming, too short to reach daylight. I'm
not keen
on making a solder joint in there, which would probably be no
better
electrically than leaving the Belling-Lee in place. Last but not
least, I
don't fancy pulling and replacing the entire cable either.


--
If the connector doesn’t need to come apart then you could simply

wrap
it in a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape, that would be

totally
waterproof and airtight, also it can be cut off if you did need to
disconnect it.
Ben.


Sounds good to me. Thanks.

--
Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org


I have always prefered Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape.

But getting back to the original posting, we should never recommend
Belling-Lee and only use where there is no alternative.

Tim Newport-Peace
http://www.newportpeace.co.uk/icom.htm


Agreed - obviously an extra 50cm of uncut cable with just a BNF on the
end would be a lot better, but, as I said, I really don't want to mess
about with soldering etc in mid-air on a piece of cable that comes out
near the front end of the right side instrument panel support channel.

However, if you can point me at a description of how to to use
'Internally-Glued Heat-Shrink over Tape' after, presumably, soldering the
internal wire ends together, that would be interesting to know. Would it
be easier than making upo some sort of clip to lock the B-L halves
together?

I do have a surprisingly good Weller battery-driven soldering iron so at
least there are is no power lead on the iron to fight with. Who'd a thunk
you could make a good solder joint using only 4 x AA alkalines?


--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org

 




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