Cold Starts

"Dave Stadt" wrote in message
m...

Percentage wise the difference is minimal.

Granted it's engine preheater propaganda,
I believe there's some truth to the research in

http://www.tanair.com/article6.html.

or

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/index.html

I'm leaning towards a Reiff System, probably the Turbo XP system. It just
seems a better design especially with a
JPI EDM-700 installation.

It's not the oil that freezes, but condensed water vapor can freeze in an
oil breather
tube, resulting in blown seals.



"John Galban" wrote in message
om...
Newps wrote in message
news:9KKYb.351852$na.520642@attbi_s04...
Doug wrote:
Then there is the Alaska way. Drain the oil and take it inside. Then
during breakfast, heat oil to 200 degrees. Pour hot oil back into
engine. Engine nice and warm. Chase off Grizzlies. Start airplane.

Your engine isn't warm, the oil is. You are much better off heating the
oil while it is still in the plane.

The reason for the Alaskan habit is that when temps go low enough, a
chunk of frozen oil can develop in the crankcase. Even after
preheating the engine to what seems to be a suitable temp, you can
have a frozen chunk of oil surrounded by slightly warmer liquid oil.
I recall reading at least 1 accident report that was blamed on frozen
oil blocking the pickup. The engine had been preheated (but obviously
not enough).

John Galban=====N4BQ (PA28-180)

In article , wrote:

Warm batteries work better than cold ones - that's why arctic
photographers
keep spares next to their skin. If your battery is in the tail, however,
this
isn't going to help you any.

right, the battery in my 140 is under the rear seat. No help
from preheat there...

--
Bob Noel

"G.R. Patterson III" wrote in message
...


Dave Stadt wrote:

I do preheat but to be honest I don't know why.

Continental will tell you that failure to preheat one of their engines
when the
temperature is below 20 degrees F may result in a snapped valve stem. Good
enough?

I have never sen that written about the O-200.


George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way
that
you look forward to the trip.

The oil will gell at some point and apparantly that point can be found in
AK.

Mike
MU-2


"Viperdoc" wrote in message
...
It's not the oil that freezes, but condensed water vapor can freeze in an
oil breather
tube, resulting in blown seals.



"John Galban" wrote in message
om...
Newps wrote in message
news:9KKYb.351852$na.520642@attbi_s04...
Doug wrote:
Then there is the Alaska way. Drain the oil and take it inside. Then
during breakfast, heat oil to 200 degrees. Pour hot oil back into
engine. Engine nice and warm. Chase off Grizzlies. Start airplane.

Your engine isn't warm, the oil is. You are much better off heating
the
oil while it is still in the plane.

The reason for the Alaskan habit is that when temps go low enough, a
chunk of frozen oil can develop in the crankcase. Even after
preheating the engine to what seems to be a suitable temp, you can
have a frozen chunk of oil surrounded by slightly warmer liquid oil.
I recall reading at least 1 accident report that was blamed on frozen
oil blocking the pickup. The engine had been preheated (but obviously
not enough).

John Galban=====N4BQ (PA28-180)

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:12:13 -0700, "Tom Sixkiller"
wrote:


"Dave Stadt" wrote in message
om...

Percentage wise the difference is minimal.

Granted it's engine preheater propaganda,
I believe there's some truth to the research in

http://www.tanair.com/article6.html.

or

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/index.html

I'm leaning towards a Reiff System, probably the Turbo XP system. It just
seems a better design especially with a
JPI EDM-700 installation.


I've had a TANIS system for about fifteen years, along with an Insight GEM.
The "cylinder" heating is taken care of by heated intake bolts, so no
interference with anything else. The oil heating is via a heated oil
screen (the upper one).

I have no experience with the Reiff system.

With a cover, my cylinders are usually around 100°F and the oil around 80°F
with OAT's down to -5°F or so.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

"Ron Rosenfeld" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 17:12:13 -0700, "Tom Sixkiller"
wrote:


"Dave Stadt" wrote in message
om...

Percentage wise the difference is minimal.

Granted it's engine preheater propaganda,
I believe there's some truth to the research in

http://www.tanair.com/article6.html.

or

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/index.html

I'm leaning towards a Reiff System, probably the Turbo XP system. It just
seems a better design especially with a
JPI EDM-700 installation.


I've had a TANIS system for about fifteen years, along with an Insight
GEM.
The "cylinder" heating is taken care of by heated intake bolts, so no
interference with anything else. The oil heating is via a heated oil
screen (the upper one).

Isn't the GEM a single cylinder monitor? The EDM-700 has six and I think
that precludes using the Tanis.


I have no experience with the Reiff system.

With a cover, my cylinders are usually around 100°F and the oil around
80°F
with OAT's down to -5°F or so.

Gets the cabin heater going more quickly, too, I surmise.

"Heated intake bolts"???

Please tell me more about that!

The Tanis heaters that I've seen use the CHT probe hole, thus precluding
the use of these holes for CHT guages (or dual adapters).

Rich

Ron Rosenfeld wrote:


I've had a TANIS system for about fifteen years, along with an Insight GEM.
The "cylinder" heating is taken care of by heated intake bolts, so no
interference with anything else. The oil heating is via a heated oil
screen (the upper one).


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

I still use the Red Dragon I bought from you, Mike, about 4 years ago (I
think). It works well and I am careful about moving the duct outlet around . .
.. mostly I keep the warm air coming from under the cowling at the nosegear
(warms the oil filter, sump and battery) and then move it to the air intakes
next to the prop to warm the cylinders. It seems to do a great job.


www.Rosspilot.com

On Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:27:01 -0500, Rich wrote:

"Heated intake bolts"???

Please tell me more about that!

The Tanis heaters that I've seen use the CHT probe hole, thus precluding
the use of these holes for CHT guages (or dual adapters).

Rich

Just another one of the available options for heat. The heated bolt
replaces an existing one on the intake manifold -- one for each cylinder.
I didn't want to use dual probes in the CHT wells, having them all plugged
with GEM CHT probes.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)