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#1
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Sealing an ASW 28 canopy
After seeing the thread about the PIK canopies I wanted
to ask if anyone had taken any extra ordinary steps to seal an ASW canopy. To date all I have done is to put some sticky back foam at the front near the demist vent. It is pretty good but I suspect it can be better. I have heard that it helps to run the same foam all way around the fuse in the depression along the canopy opening. Thoughts???? Bob |
#2
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The Schleicher canopy fits tightly with a convoluted type interface. Before
adding any weather-strip or seal, try this experiment to see if there's any room to do so. Take very small bits of modeling clay (plasticene) and place them on the sealing surfaces. Close and then re-open the canopy to test the clearance. On my 26e, there's no room at all for any weather-strip. In fact, the little bits of clay used in the above test lifted the canopy ever so slightly above the fuselage at the forward lip. all the best, bumper "Bob Caldwell" wrote in message ... After seeing the thread about the PIK canopies I wanted to ask if anyone had taken any extra ordinary steps to seal an ASW canopy. To date all I have done is to put some sticky back foam at the front near the demist vent. It is pretty good but I suspect it can be better. I have heard that it helps to run the same foam all way around the fuse in the depression along the canopy opening. Thoughts???? Bob |
#3
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I have had success in finding the tight spots in my
canopy/ fuselage fit by placing a strip of paper in the seal area and then closing the canopy. Free sliding paper = OK, dragging paper = tight spot. I sand down the tight spots then put 3/16 X 3/8th open cell foan all the way around. Good for a season or two, but the shearing action at front and rear will eventually destroy it and so you get to do it again. JJ At 05:48 08 August 2005, Bumper wrote: The Schleicher canopy fits tightly with a convoluted type interface. Before adding any weather-strip or seal, try this experiment to see if there's any room to do so. Take very small bits of modeling clay (plasticene) and place them on the sealing surfaces. Close and then re-open the canopy to test the clearance. On my 26e, there's no room at all for any weather-strip. In fact, the little bits of clay used in the above test lifted the canopy ever so slightly above the fuselage at the forward lip. all the best, bumper 'Bob Caldwell' wrote in message ... After seeing the thread about the PIK canopies I wanted to ask if anyone had taken any extra ordinary steps to seal an ASW canopy. To date all I have done is to put some sticky back foam at the front near the demist vent. It is pretty good but I suspect it can be better. I have heard that it helps to run the same foam all way around the fuse in the depression along the canopy opening. Thoughts???? Bob |
#4
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Based on my experience, a negative pressure inside the cockpit will do the
trick. This is base on having built two gliders and own an ASW24. Providing the perimeter fit of the canopy is good, no edges of the canopy frame are sticking out that is all that would be needed. Case in point. When I picked up my ASW24 the canopy frame was covered with foam tape and the front and rear edges were raise. I removed the material made sure the canopy frame got back it's original fit. Then I improved the exit ventilation at the tail. The Cockpit is now quite, plus I stay cooler, due to better ventilation flow Regards Udo |
#5
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Bob Caldwell wrote:
After seeing the thread about the PIK canopies I wanted to ask if anyone had taken any extra ordinary steps to seal an ASW canopy. To date all I have done is to put some sticky back foam at the front near the demist vent. It is pretty good but I suspect it can be better. I have heard that it helps to run the same foam all way around the fuse in the depression along the canopy opening. Thoughts???? Do you have a specific problem you are trying to cure, such as a whistle from the back edge or cold air leaking in right at the front? Those are places where my ASH 26 E has problems, generally only in winter flying. The rear is easily solved by putting about 2 feet of thin open cell foam weather-stripping on the canopy frame, usually renewing it in the Fall. The front is much more difficult, due to the shearing action during closing and canopy shrinkage in the winter. Most of the cold air on my glider actually comes in the front vent, which is not fully sealed by the vent flap. Taping over about 50% of the vent area and putting some soft foam on the flapper valve to seal against the remaining area makes a big difference. Again, I do this each Fall, removing the tape in the late spring. -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#6
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Udo,
Can you provide details of what you did to improve exhaust ventilation at the tail? thanks, bumper "Udo Rumpf" wrote in message ... Based on my experience, a negative pressure inside the cockpit will do the trick. This is base on having built two gliders and own an ASW24. Providing the perimeter fit of the canopy is good, no edges of the canopy frame are sticking out that is all that would be needed. Case in point. When I picked up my ASW24 the canopy frame was covered with foam tape and the front and rear edges were raise. I removed the material made sure the canopy frame got back it's original fit. Then I improved the exit ventilation at the tail. The Cockpit is now quite, plus I stay cooler, due to better ventilation flow Regards Udo |
#7
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Bumper,
When I discovered no air was getting out through any of the tail assembly in my 24, I simply made a 11/2" hole over the drain hole in the tail wheel fender. Ahead of the fender is a bulk head that has a nice large opening. The standard tail wheel leaves enough clearance around the fender frame to allow air to be sucked out. The only disadvantage would be if you land in a muddy field. That is a trade off I am willing to make. Regards Udo |
#8
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Udo,
Interesting, I'll have a look at my ASH26E. Might it also be possible to include a check-valve sort of flap that would allow exhaust but would prevent dirt from the tailwheel from entering the tail boom? bumper "Udo Rumpf" wrote in message ... Bumper, When I discovered no air was getting out through any of the tail assembly in my 24, I simply made a 11/2" hole over the drain hole in the tail wheel fender. Ahead of the fender is a bulk head that has a nice large opening. The standard tail wheel leaves enough clearance around the fender frame to allow air to be sucked out. The only disadvantage would be if you land in a muddy field. That is a trade off I am willing to make. Regards Udo |
#9
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Udo Rumpf wrote:
Bumper, When I discovered no air was getting out through any of the tail assembly in my 24, I simply made a 11/2" hole over the drain hole in the tail wheel fender. Ahead of the fender is a bulk head that has a nice large opening. The standard tail wheel leaves enough clearance around the fender frame to allow air to be sucked out. The only disadvantage would be if you land in a muddy field. That is a trade off I am willing to make. Wasn't air able to exit through the rudder horn and cable openings? -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#10
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Wasn't air able to exit through the rudder horn and cable openings?
Eric Greenwell Washington State USA It appears the opening is plugged by excess assembly epoxy. Udo |
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