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#11
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Another way to replacing instrument panels
Why not make a new panel by tracing the outline of the factory on the
new aluminum (or glass or carbon sheet), cutting it out, laying out the new instrument holes, and cutting and drilling as necessary? It seems much simpler, but I wonder if I'm missing something. Dan 5J On 2/24/21 1:03 AM, ben soaring wrote: I like this concept. Got any photos to share?? Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure. This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works". The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well. Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel. So endeth the lesson and good luck. |
#12
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Another way to replacing instrument panels
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 10:38:37 AM UTC-8, Dan Marotta wrote:
Why not make a new panel by tracing the outline of the factory on the new aluminum (or glass or carbon sheet), cutting it out, laying out the new instrument holes, and cutting and drilling as necessary? It seems much simpler, but I wonder if I'm missing something. Dan 5J On 2/24/21 1:03 AM, ben soaring wrote: I like this concept. Got any photos to share?? Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure. This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works". The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive.. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well. Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel. So endeth the lesson and good luck. Best to keep the flange that most newer ships have incorporated. Much safer and the panel mount holes remain the same. |
#13
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Another way to replacing instrument panels
The flange is easy when using composite materials.
Dan 5J On 2/24/21 4:20 PM, John Sinclair wrote: On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 10:38:37 AM UTC-8, Dan Marotta wrote: Why not make a new panel by tracing the outline of the factory on the new aluminum (or glass or carbon sheet), cutting it out, laying out the new instrument holes, and cutting and drilling as necessary? It seems much simpler, but I wonder if I'm missing something. Dan 5J On 2/24/21 1:03 AM, ben soaring wrote: I like this concept. Got any photos to share?? Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure. This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works". The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well. Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel. So endeth the lesson and good luck. Best to keep the flange that most newer ships have incorporated. Much safer and the panel mount holes remain the same. |
#14
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Another way to replacing instrument panels
We would anyone go trough all this trouble when you can lay up a new panel over piece of mdf or plywood sawed to original form and basically copy any factory panel (+flanges), with few hours work? And just how expensive are those new panel? Last time I checked blank panel was few hundred euros.
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#15
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Another way to replacing instrument panelsM
This is exactly what i did. I started from an old good panel, closed the old holes with carbon and glass fibre, and cut out the new ones. See the video documentation:
step 1: https://youtu.be/h1MMf7YTaAw step 2: https://youtu.be/Hj998rtm7e4 step 3: https://youtu.be/W4QM83dzZ40 |
#16
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Another way to replacing instrument panelsM
Eccellente! Great videos.
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