sump drain cleaning

[Mike Noel]

I have seen this discussed before, but couldn't come up with any hits on
Google. The sump drains on one wing an at the engine are running very
slowly, so I suspect they need to be cleaned. Also, the one that does drain
well continued to drip after I had drained a fuel sample until I had jiggled
it around for a bit. Interestingly (ominously?), the one that does drain
well gave me a few dark flecks. What is the best way to clean up these
drains, or would it be best to replace them?

--
Mike in Tucson (AVQ)
Archer N54405

[Kyle Boatright]

If you had an experimental aircraft, you'd just unscrew them from the tank
(after more or less emptying the tank) and clean off any crud that was in or
on them... If a drain was bad, the owner of an experimental aicraft could
simply buy a new one or try and replace the seals in the bad one.

KB


"Mike Noel" > wrote in message
...
> I have seen this discussed before, but couldn't come up with any hits on
> Google. The sump drains on one wing an at the engine are running very
> slowly, so I suspect they need to be cleaned. Also, the one that does
drain
> well continued to drip after I had drained a fuel sample until I had
jiggled
> it around for a bit. Interestingly (ominously?), the one that does drain
> well gave me a few dark flecks. What is the best way to clean up these
> drains, or would it be best to replace them?
>
> --
> Mike in Tucson (AVQ)
> Archer N54405
>
>
>

[mikem]

New PMAed drains are not that expensive. The last ones I bought were
about $10 ea. The arcraft parts vendors will not sell you replacement
o-rings for the drains, however, the o-rings are carried by industrial
distributors. Usually, a piece of crud imbeds itself into the rubber,
causing it to drip.

The biggest hassle is draining the tanks. Since the drains have a
standard NPT Pipe Thread, you can go to a hardware store and get a
pipe plug which can be used to temporarily plug the tank while you are
working on the quick drain. You will spill some gas, but if you have a
helper, he/she can do the "little boy with his finger in the dike"
(not dyke) until you get the plug in.

MikeM
Skylane '1MM
Pacer '00Z


On Sun, 10 Aug 2003 19:52:30 -0700, "Mike Noel" >
wrote:

>I have seen this discussed before, but couldn't come up with any hits on
>Google. The sump drains on one wing an at the engine are running very
>slowly, so I suspect they need to be cleaned. Also, the one that does drain
>well continued to drip after I had drained a fuel sample until I had jiggled
>it around for a bit. Interestingly (ominously?), the one that does drain
>well gave me a few dark flecks. What is the best way to clean up these
>drains, or would it be best to replace them?

[Doug Vetter]

Mike Noel wrote:
> I have seen this discussed before, but couldn't come up with any hits on
> Google. The sump drains on one wing an at the engine are running very
> slowly, so I suspect they need to be cleaned. Also, the one that does drain
> well continued to drip after I had drained a fuel sample until I had jiggled
> it around for a bit. Interestingly (ominously?), the one that does drain
> well gave me a few dark flecks. What is the best way to clean up these
> drains, or would it be best to replace them?

Mike,

My mechanic just replaced both main tank drains on our 172 after I
noticed the very same symptoms on one of the drains. We technically
only needed to replace the right side drain, but I figured I'd do both
because they're reasonably priced and I wanted to change them to a
"flush" type like that used on the new 172. They now flow like Niagra
Falls. 8^)

He used the "thumb" method to replace the drains rather than draining
the tanks. What's the "thumb" method you ask? Unscrew the drain. When
it comes out, use your thumb to close over the hole, then release, then
close it up again. Lather, rinse, repeat a few more times to make sure
you remove any gunk that might be hanging out in the bottom of the tank.
When done, screw the new drain in, and safety wire accordingly.

We "spilled" about a quart or so into a basin I strategically positioned
beneath the drain during the procedure to ensure we caught it all. Once
we verified the gas in the basin was clean, we poured it into the tug.
Nothing wasted.

HTH,

-Doug

--
--------------------
Doug Vetter, CFIMEIA

http://www.dvcfi.com
--------------------

[Mike Noel]

Thanks for the replies. I ordered 3 new CCA-1550 drains from Aircraft
Spruce. The total with priority USPS shipping was about $30. Curtis Valve
has a nice application chart on their web site that lists which valves are
used in which aircraft. In the Piper their is no safety wire involved.
Looks like it is just a friction fit with the pipe threading. Is it just
metal to metal with no special sealant?

--
Mike in Tucson (AVQ)
Archer N54405

"Doug Vetter" > wrote in message
. net...
> Mike Noel wrote:
> > I have seen this discussed before, but couldn't come up with any hits on
> > Google. The sump drains on one wing an at the engine are running very
> > slowly, so I suspect they need to be cleaned. Also, the one that does
drain
> > well continued to drip after I had drained a fuel sample until I had
jiggled
> > it around for a bit. Interestingly (ominously?), the one that does
drain
> > well gave me a few dark flecks. What is the best way to clean up these
> > drains, or would it be best to replace them?
>
> Mike,
>
> My mechanic just replaced both main tank drains on our 172 after I
> noticed the very same symptoms on one of the drains. We technically
> only needed to replace the right side drain, but I figured I'd do both
> because they're reasonably priced and I wanted to change them to a
> "flush" type like that used on the new 172. They now flow like Niagra
> Falls. 8^)
>
> He used the "thumb" method to replace the drains rather than draining
> the tanks. What's the "thumb" method you ask? Unscrew the drain. When
> it comes out, use your thumb to close over the hole, then release, then
> close it up again. Lather, rinse, repeat a few more times to make sure
> you remove any gunk that might be hanging out in the bottom of the tank.
> When done, screw the new drain in, and safety wire accordingly.
>
> We "spilled" about a quart or so into a basin I strategically positioned
> beneath the drain during the procedure to ensure we caught it all. Once
> we verified the gas in the basin was clean, we poured it into the tug.
> Nothing wasted.
>
> HTH,
>
> -Doug
>
> --
> --------------------
> Doug Vetter, CFIMEIA
>
> http://www.dvcfi.com
> --------------------
>

[Kyle Boatright]

"Mike Noel" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for the replies. I ordered 3 new CCA-1550 drains from Aircraft
> Spruce. The total with priority USPS shipping was about $30. Curtis
Valve
> has a nice application chart on their web site that lists which valves are
> used in which aircraft. In the Piper their is no safety wire involved.
> Looks like it is just a friction fit with the pipe threading. Is it just
> metal to metal with no special sealant?
>
> --
> Mike in Tucson (AVQ)
> Archer N54405
>

Pipe threads don't *require* a sealant. However, I would recommend a dab of
fuel lube. You could also use some of the teflon goo, but DON'T use teflon
tape.

KB

[Tim Bengtson]

Kyle Boatright wrote:

> ... but DON'T use teflon
> tape.

Why not?

Tim

[Aaron Coolidge]

Tim Bengtson > wrote:
: Kyle Boatright wrote:
:> ... but DON'T use teflon
:> tape.
: Why not?
: Tim

Tim, it's because the Teflon tape can shear off small flakes of the Teflon,
and get clogged up in the carb, fuel injection, selector valves, etc.

--
Aaron Coolidge (N9376J)

[Greg Hopp]

> "Doug Vetter" wrote in message
> > My mechanic just replaced both main tank drains on our 172 after I
> > noticed the very same symptoms on one of the drains.

> > Lather, rinse, repeat a few more times to make sure
> > you remove any gunk that might be hanging out in the bottom of the tank.
> > When done, screw the new drain in, and safety wire accordingly.
> > Once we verified the gas in the basin was clean, we poured it into the tug.
> > Nothing wasted.
> > -Doug

Doug, you mention you drained the fuel several times to ensure you
"got the gunk out." I'm curious how your mechanic verified the fuel
was clean? Does one use a paper (coffee?) filter or some other
contraption to ensure the dark flecks & gunk don't get poured back in
the tank.

(Newbie owner and not a mechanic.)

Greg H.
Cols, OH
N4691X

[Jay Masino]

Aaron Coolidge > wrote:
> :> ... but DON'T use teflon
> :> tape.
> : Why not?
> Tim, it's because the Teflon tape can shear off small flakes of the Teflon,
> and get clogged up in the carb, fuel injection, selector valves, etc.

Theoretically, you're supposed to skip the first thread or two when you
wrap threads with Teflon tape. If you do this, the tape won't ever come
into contact with the fluid (gas, in this case).

-- Jay
__!__
Jay and Teresa Masino ___(_)___
http://www2.ari.net/jmasino/ ! ! !

Checkout http://www.oc-adolfos.com/
for the best Italian food in Ocean City, MD and...
Checkout http://www.brolow.com/ for authentic Blues music on Delmarva

[Kyle Boatright]

"Jay Masino" > wrote in message
...
> Aaron Coolidge > wrote:
> > :> ... but DON'T use teflon
> > :> tape.
> > : Why not?
> > Tim, it's because the Teflon tape can shear off small flakes of the
Teflon,
> > and get clogged up in the carb, fuel injection, selector valves, etc.
>
> Theoretically, you're supposed to skip the first thread or two when you
> wrap threads with Teflon tape. If you do this, the tape won't ever come
> into contact with the fluid (gas, in this case).
>
> -- Jay
> __!__

Why take the chance on installing something that could cause a problem if
you don't install it correctly? You probably could land your airplane with
one eye closed, but not many people are interested in increasing their risk
level...

Also, even if you install it correctly the first time, one day that drain
will clog again, you'll pull it out and replace it with a new one. Can you
be absolutely sure you're not going to leave any of the used tape stuck
inside the female fitting where the drain attaches? If you do leave a scrap
of tape in there, the new fitting will push those tape shards back into the
fuel tank, which is exactly where you don't want it.

KB

[PaulaJay1]

In article >, Aaron Coolidge
> writes:

> ... but DON'T use teflon
>:> tape.
>: Why not?
>: Tim
>
>Tim, it's because the Teflon tape can shear off small flakes of the Teflon,
>and get clogged up in the carb, fuel injection, selector valves, etc.
>

Isn't there a filter that should catch any flakes or peices before the carb,
etc.?

Chuck

[Kyle Boatright]

"PaulaJay1" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, Aaron Coolidge
> > writes:
>
> > ... but DON'T use teflon
> >:> tape.
> >: Why not?
> >: Tim
> >
> >Tim, it's because the Teflon tape can shear off small flakes of the
Teflon,
> >and get clogged up in the carb, fuel injection, selector valves, etc.
> >
>
> Isn't there a filter that should catch any flakes or peices before the
carb,
> etc.?
>
> Chuck

Depends on the installation. However, let's say you do have the appropriate
filter in the correct location... What if the teflon tape clogs the filter
and the clogged filter causes fuel starvation? Don't take that chance.
Especially, don't take that chance when you're dealing with the lives of
your passengers.

Teflon tape is a definite no-no. Don't use it. This is a lesson someone
learned the hard way.

KB

[David Lesher]

"Kyle Boatright" > writes:



>Teflon tape is a definite no-no. Don't use it. This is a lesson someone
>learned the hard way.


When I worked in the petro business, we used something called
"RectorSeal" on all the instrument line fittings. It's a paste you
applied to the theads. It seemed to stand up to gasolines/LPG/FO
etc. Not sure if that's the right solution for this or not, but it
worked like gangbusters.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Dan Thomas]

Just a few items to add to the mix:

There are different threads used on sump ports on various
airplanes. Make sure you order the right one. You will find 1/8" and
1/4" NPT as well as 7/16NF, and there could be others. The NPTs uses a
sealant like fuellube, and the machine thread styles use an O-ring.

You CAN buy the tiny replacement O-rings for the valve end. We do.

The dark flecks are often bits of bugs. If you leave the cap off
the tank, or the vent is big enough for some insects to enter, they
will. They like gasoline fumes. I have taken numerous bugs out of
tanks and drain valves. Kepp those caps on whenever not dipping or
refuelling.

Fuel is filtered, usually, three times between the tank and carb. A
finger screen in the tank (coarse), a finer one in the gascolator, and
another at the carb inlet fitting. Teflon tape shouldn't be a problem,
but I still don't like it. FuelLube is better.

Dan

[Bob Noel]

In article >, "Mike Noel"
> wrote:

> What is this FuelLube?

from what this owner can figure, FuelLube is used to lube the
threads of fittings that go into gas lines and such.

--
Bob Noel