View Full Version : 0-300D cylinder and oil sump torque settings
Darrel Toepfer
January 12th 05, 06:45 AM
Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
too...
jls
January 12th 05, 12:42 PM
"Darrel Toepfer" > wrote in message
. ..
> Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
> too...
410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
respectively
My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC 43-13-1B.
If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a while.
Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you doin',
trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
submarine.
Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder base
on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working with.
Darrel Toepfer
January 12th 05, 02:57 PM
jls wrote:
> "Darrel Toepfer" > wrote:
>>Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
>>too...
>
> 410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
> respectively
>
> My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC 43-13-1B.
> If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a while.
> Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you doin',
> trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
> submarine.
>
> Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
> torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder base
> on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working with.
Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?
We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...
Thanks again for the info...
jls
January 12th 05, 03:39 PM
"Darrel Toepfer" > wrote in message
...
> jls wrote:
> > "Darrel Toepfer" > wrote:
>
> >>Anyone have a downloadable service manual? Or an 0-200 would do nicely
> >>too...
> >
> > 410-430 and 490-510 in. lbs. on the 3/8 and 7/16 cylinder base nuts,
> > respectively
> >
> > My manual doesn't say what torque on the oil sump nuts -- Use AC
43-13-1B.
> > If I'm not mistaken those bolts are 1/4" in. diameter. It's been a
while.
> > Torque on the 1/4-28 flange bolts is 100-125 in. lbs. What're you
doin',
> > trine to stop oil drips? Damn O-300's act like screen doors on a
> > submarine.
> >
> > Remember when you are torquing the cylinder base nuts, you should also
> > torque the nut on the other end of a thru-stud, i. e., on the cylinder
base
> > on the crankcase on the opposite side of the cylinder you are working
with.
>
> Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?
20 in. lbs. but only with silicone gaskets, which you should be using
because the other kind don't work. If the non-silicone I use a gasket
sealer like silicone or Hylomar and tighten gingerly until leak stops. Go
too far and they will never stop leaking.
>
> We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
> quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
> exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...
>
> Thanks again for the info...
Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks around the
crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that isn't
a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.
If your quick-drain valve is leaking around the threads, get a good supply
of crush washers. If around the valve itself, clean or replace. You may
be able to lap it in with some fine lapping compound, but nowadays those
quick-drains are a lot cheaper than they used to be.
Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.
Darrel Toepfer
January 12th 05, 04:28 PM
jls wrote:
>>Thanks... Also whats the torque on the valve covers?
>
> 20 in. lbs. but only with silicone gaskets, which you should be using
> because the other kind don't work. If the non-silicone I use a gasket
> sealer like silicone or Hylomar and tighten gingerly until leak stops. Go
> too far and they will never stop leaking.
Ordered silicone, dunno whats there yet but its probably cork. Only
fixing whats messing it up, leaving whats fine alone...
>>We've got a seep on the sump, 2 cylinders, a leaky valve cover and the
>>quick drain is also leaking. Takes a real good cleaning to find just
>>exactly where this bit of oil was coming from...
>
> Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks around the
> crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that isn't
> a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.
Around 3500 on the airframe, one overhaul on the engine...
One bolt on each of 2 cylinders is sweating oil...
> If your quick-drain valve is leaking around the threads, get a good supply
> of crush washers. If around the valve itself, clean or replace. You may
> be able to lap it in with some fine lapping compound, but nowadays those
> quick-drains are a lot cheaper than they used to be.
>
> Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
> the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.
Its not an oil burner, just a seeper... <G>
Thanks again...
Darrel Toepfer
January 13th 05, 04:41 PM
Darrel Toepfer wrote:
> jls wrote:
>> Looks like the engine has some hours on it. I usually find leaks
>> around the
>> crush washers on the rear case. I know of ONE O-300, just ONE, that
>> isn't
>> a big leaker. Somebody put it together fastidiously.
Replacing the 4 on the accessory case as well...
Would you happen to have the replacement part number for the oil filler
cap or its gasket? Found some leakage there too...
> Around 3500 on the airframe, one overhaul on the engine...
>
> One bolt on each of 2 cylinders is sweating oil...
Found several loose cylinder bolts...
>> Best. I love them damned old engines. They just keep right on going and
>> the bottom ends are wonderful. Watch out for them jugs, though.
Have 6 chromed ones...
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