Jay Honeck
February 5th 05, 07:58 PM
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/skycraft_landing_lights.htm
The pictures don't capture all the nitty gritty details of the
installation. A couple of things to note:
1. The wiring does NOT go inside the wings, but is rather routed inside
a flexible conduit that gets attached to the wing ahead of the ailerons
and flaps. This makes the installation much easier, but take note: If
you have gap seals, removing the aileron makes the install much easier.
2. Running the wires up to the panel means taking the right side panels
out of your interior.
3. Installing the split "L/R" switch into the "bank" of switches (near
the existing landing light switch) is a real sonuvabitch. Removing
that "bank" of switches is done by removing two screws in the face of
the panel, and removing more screws that are accessible only by
removing your bottom-most radio. Once the "bank" of switches is
removed, you can more easily remove the individual switches from the
"bank".
4. We opted to relocate our seldom-used pitot heat switch out of the
"bank" and off on its own, about four inches to the right. This was a
real "Dremel-tool" special job, and requires a skilled sheet-metal guy
-- which my A&P luckily is. We then put the landing light switch where
the pitot heat switch was.
5. As with so many installations, our headphone jacks were installed
using two vacant circuit breaker holes. These needed to be relocated
so that the new landing light circuit breakers could be added. I moved
these jacks to the right of the new pitot heat switch, just to the left
of the heater controls.
6. Because of the extensive nature of this installation, we opted to do
our annual inspection at the same time, which turned out to be a good
idea.
I don't have the final bill yet, and I'll be taking some more pix to
add to the webpage later today, but hopefully this will help you guys
who are "sitting on the fence" with regards to these lights.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
http://www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"
The pictures don't capture all the nitty gritty details of the
installation. A couple of things to note:
1. The wiring does NOT go inside the wings, but is rather routed inside
a flexible conduit that gets attached to the wing ahead of the ailerons
and flaps. This makes the installation much easier, but take note: If
you have gap seals, removing the aileron makes the install much easier.
2. Running the wires up to the panel means taking the right side panels
out of your interior.
3. Installing the split "L/R" switch into the "bank" of switches (near
the existing landing light switch) is a real sonuvabitch. Removing
that "bank" of switches is done by removing two screws in the face of
the panel, and removing more screws that are accessible only by
removing your bottom-most radio. Once the "bank" of switches is
removed, you can more easily remove the individual switches from the
"bank".
4. We opted to relocate our seldom-used pitot heat switch out of the
"bank" and off on its own, about four inches to the right. This was a
real "Dremel-tool" special job, and requires a skilled sheet-metal guy
-- which my A&P luckily is. We then put the landing light switch where
the pitot heat switch was.
5. As with so many installations, our headphone jacks were installed
using two vacant circuit breaker holes. These needed to be relocated
so that the new landing light circuit breakers could be added. I moved
these jacks to the right of the new pitot heat switch, just to the left
of the heater controls.
6. Because of the extensive nature of this installation, we opted to do
our annual inspection at the same time, which turned out to be a good
idea.
I don't have the final bill yet, and I'll be taking some more pix to
add to the webpage later today, but hopefully this will help you guys
who are "sitting on the fence" with regards to these lights.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
http://www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"