Mike Spera
May 15th 05, 02:15 PM
Day 43 (Big Box #2)
Put the plastic back in the plane. Looks a bit too bright when compared
to the hat shelf. The Kiwi job on the headliner made it look MUCH
better. Removed the stains, however, the plastic is still a bit whiter.
Not too objectionable. The plastic also looks out of place because the
upholstery is so awful. If I had it to do over again, I would probably
have used the SEM paint as it comes in a few varieties of off-white.
Seat upholstery arrived a few days ago. My fears about the velour
looking too “disco” were unfounded. The silver gray color does not shine
or look cheap. Once again, the SOLVENT smell is pretty powerful. They
used lots of glue on the foam that was in the shipment. The foam was a
simple 2 part. The higher density stuff comprises the main part and the
edges were covered in ˝ inch soft stuff. This is done so that the seams
can “bed” into the soft foam in any direction and not show through the
outer vinyl skin. The foam shape looks to be a good fit to the
upholstery. Much thicker and more square-cornered than the original.
Should make the seats look a little more “substantial”.
I was going to re-foam the rear seats myself because Airtex does not
sell pre-made rear seat foam. However, when I tore off the old seat
covers, the foam looked to be in pretty good shape. The rear seats in a
140 don’t get used much, and when they do it is usually by kids who
don’t need super cushioning because of their light weight. The rear seat
back upholstery went on without a hitch. However, the rear seat bottom
upholstery is cut for a little more of a square cornered top foam piece
at the rear (like if you used a slab-o-foam). Hence, there is a little
dimple on the piping at the rear just before the piping dives down
towards the seat bottom at the rear (where it snugs up against the seat
back). If does not bother me enough to go out and get new foam. The seat
back also obscures this partially. I am quickly learning to compromise
here and there on this project when I remember what the “before” picture
looked like.
Took a couple of hours to strip off the old upholstery, foam, and
webbing. LOTS of staples to take out. The foam is also glued on
everywhere to facilitate assembly. I will have to do the same and glue
it everywhere. I discovered several places where the old webbing was
either split or just about to do so. It also has sagged pretty badly
just about everywhere. The old seat foam on the front seat was shot. In
some placed, it had crushed to 1/2 of its original thickness.
I painted the bottoms of the seat frames a gray to match the carpeting.
They were Piper baby blue and would certainly stick out with all the new
gray stuff. I did not obsess about it. The seat frames were chipped up
pretty badly, however, you can barely see them once in the plane. The
seat cushions obscure you from getting a good look at them. A quick
thinner wash and 220 sanding was all they got. They will just get
chipped up again as folks enter and exit with their clodhoppers kicking
everything in sight.
I noticed the front seat backs had velcro bottom closures. Cool! Way
easier than blind stitching or hog rings. However, the rear seat backs
are plain and will need to be hog ringed. Can’t have everything.
I was all set to do the rear seat bottoms. They are stapled to a thin
piece of plywood to which the foam is glued. I discovered one small
hitch about my air stapler. It is WAY too powerful for the job. The
narrow crown staples in an air driven gun do fine to staple carpeting to
˝ inch plywood, but absolutely blow right through vinyl AND the plywood.
No amount of reducing the air pressure would help. So, off to Home Depot
to get an electric stapler. I hesitated to do it because I already threw
out an Arrow brand electric. It was a piece of crap that was constantly
jamming. I found a heavier duty looking unit and it appears to be just
the right amount of power.
End of Day 43
Put the plastic back in the plane. Looks a bit too bright when compared
to the hat shelf. The Kiwi job on the headliner made it look MUCH
better. Removed the stains, however, the plastic is still a bit whiter.
Not too objectionable. The plastic also looks out of place because the
upholstery is so awful. If I had it to do over again, I would probably
have used the SEM paint as it comes in a few varieties of off-white.
Seat upholstery arrived a few days ago. My fears about the velour
looking too “disco” were unfounded. The silver gray color does not shine
or look cheap. Once again, the SOLVENT smell is pretty powerful. They
used lots of glue on the foam that was in the shipment. The foam was a
simple 2 part. The higher density stuff comprises the main part and the
edges were covered in ˝ inch soft stuff. This is done so that the seams
can “bed” into the soft foam in any direction and not show through the
outer vinyl skin. The foam shape looks to be a good fit to the
upholstery. Much thicker and more square-cornered than the original.
Should make the seats look a little more “substantial”.
I was going to re-foam the rear seats myself because Airtex does not
sell pre-made rear seat foam. However, when I tore off the old seat
covers, the foam looked to be in pretty good shape. The rear seats in a
140 don’t get used much, and when they do it is usually by kids who
don’t need super cushioning because of their light weight. The rear seat
back upholstery went on without a hitch. However, the rear seat bottom
upholstery is cut for a little more of a square cornered top foam piece
at the rear (like if you used a slab-o-foam). Hence, there is a little
dimple on the piping at the rear just before the piping dives down
towards the seat bottom at the rear (where it snugs up against the seat
back). If does not bother me enough to go out and get new foam. The seat
back also obscures this partially. I am quickly learning to compromise
here and there on this project when I remember what the “before” picture
looked like.
Took a couple of hours to strip off the old upholstery, foam, and
webbing. LOTS of staples to take out. The foam is also glued on
everywhere to facilitate assembly. I will have to do the same and glue
it everywhere. I discovered several places where the old webbing was
either split or just about to do so. It also has sagged pretty badly
just about everywhere. The old seat foam on the front seat was shot. In
some placed, it had crushed to 1/2 of its original thickness.
I painted the bottoms of the seat frames a gray to match the carpeting.
They were Piper baby blue and would certainly stick out with all the new
gray stuff. I did not obsess about it. The seat frames were chipped up
pretty badly, however, you can barely see them once in the plane. The
seat cushions obscure you from getting a good look at them. A quick
thinner wash and 220 sanding was all they got. They will just get
chipped up again as folks enter and exit with their clodhoppers kicking
everything in sight.
I noticed the front seat backs had velcro bottom closures. Cool! Way
easier than blind stitching or hog rings. However, the rear seat backs
are plain and will need to be hog ringed. Can’t have everything.
I was all set to do the rear seat bottoms. They are stapled to a thin
piece of plywood to which the foam is glued. I discovered one small
hitch about my air stapler. It is WAY too powerful for the job. The
narrow crown staples in an air driven gun do fine to staple carpeting to
˝ inch plywood, but absolutely blow right through vinyl AND the plywood.
No amount of reducing the air pressure would help. So, off to Home Depot
to get an electric stapler. I hesitated to do it because I already threw
out an Arrow brand electric. It was a piece of crap that was constantly
jamming. I found a heavier duty looking unit and it appears to be just
the right amount of power.
End of Day 43