Another way to replacing instrument panels

[ben soaring]

Why bother chasing a new instrument panel? They are very expensive, hard to get, and a blank "factory" panel is difficult to cut properly and get "spot on".

This alternative method works great and actually offers "easier to service" benefits. The concept is to cut a new panel from redi-available and relatively inexpensive soft aluminum sheet then fasten the new aluminum panel to your old factory panel "skelton" by use of rivnuts. With the old panel completely stripped, "hollow" out the panel "face" creating a structural skelton to hold the new aluminum panel. It takes a bit of fiddle and fit but it comes together quickly. Leave as much lip as possible to maintain strength and hold rivnuts. Done correctly, it is hard to notice new panel is an overlay.

The best example of this was a 2 piece aluminum panel with a removable full length center section that allowed you to replace your flight computer in less than 30 minutes. The center section also mounted the transponder, switches, fuses, and USBs below the flight computer allowing complete access to the maze of all that without removing the canopy.

Beats the hell out of servicing something mounted to a factory panel.

[Eric Greenwell[_4_]]

ben soaring wrote on 2/23/2021 4:14 PM:
> Why bother chasing a new instrument panel? They are very expensive, hard to get, and a blank "factory" panel is difficult to cut properly and get "spot on".
>
> This alternative method works great and actually offers "easier to service" benefits. The concept is to cut a new panel from redi-available and relatively inexpensive soft aluminum sheet then fasten the new aluminum panel to your old factory panel "skelton" by use of rivnuts. With the old panel completely stripped, "hollow" out the panel "face" creating a structural skelton to hold the new aluminum panel. It takes a bit of fiddle and fit but it comes together quickly. Leave as much lip as possible to maintain strength and hold rivnuts. Done correctly, it is hard to notice new panel is an overlay.
>
> The best example of this was a 2 piece aluminum panel with a removable full length center section that allowed you to replace your flight computer in less than 30 minutes. The center section also mounted the transponder, switches, fuses, and USBs below the flight computer allowing complete access to the maze of all that without removing the canopy.
>
> Beats the hell out of servicing something mounted to a factory panel.

How about just bolt on the new panel, then use a router to cut away the pieces of the old panel
that show through the new panel? That leaves as much of the old panel as possible. I like the
concept.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me)
- "A Guide to Self-Launching Sailplane Operation"
https://sites.google.com/site/motorgliders/publications/download-the-guide-1

[Phoenix]

On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 7:15:01 PM UTC-5, ben soaring wrote:
> Why bother chasing a new instrument panel? They are very expensive, hard to get, and a blank "factory" panel is difficult to cut properly and get "spot on".
>
> This alternative method works great and actually offers "easier to service" benefits. The concept is to cut a new panel from redi-available and relatively inexpensive soft aluminum sheet then fasten the new aluminum panel to your old factory panel "skelton" by use of rivnuts. With the old panel completely stripped, "hollow" out the panel "face" creating a structural skelton to hold the new aluminum panel. It takes a bit of fiddle and fit but it comes together quickly. Leave as much lip as possible to maintain strength and hold rivnuts. Done correctly, it is hard to notice new panel is an overlay.
>
> The best example of this was a 2 piece aluminum panel with a removable full length center section that allowed you to replace your flight computer in less than 30 minutes. The center section also mounted the transponder, switches, fuses, and USBs below the flight computer allowing complete access to the maze of all that without removing the canopy.
>
> Beats the hell out of servicing something mounted to a factory panel.

I like this concept. Got any photos to share??

[Mark Mocho]

One drawback is that the former skeletonized panel will interfere with the backside surface of the "new" panel, making instruments not fit with the flush mounting intended by the designers. Mounting screws will be (possibly) too short, and some corners of the instruments may not sit flat against the panel. These deficiencies may be acceptable to some, but not to me. I'd rather go the extra mile and do it right with a new panel, like I have done four times in the past. I'm getting better at it, too!

[ben soaring]

> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??

Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.

This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".

The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.

Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.

So endeth the lesson and good luck.

[John Galloway[_2_]]

On Wednesday, 24 February 2021 at 08:03:05 UTC, ben soaring wrote:
> > I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
>
> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
>
> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
>
> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
>
> So endeth the lesson and good luck.

The reason that glider manufacturers stopped using aluminum panels was to reduce leg injuries in an accident or bail-out.

[Eric Greenwell[_4_]]

John Galloway wrote on 2/24/2021 6:18 AM:
> On Wednesday, 24 February 2021 at 08:03:05 UTC, ben soaring wrote:
>>> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
>> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
>>
>> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
>>
>> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
>>
>> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
>>
>> So endeth the lesson and good luck.
>
> The reason that glider manufacturers stopped using aluminum panels was to reduce leg injuries in an accident or bail-out.
>
The panel on my Std Cirrus was metal, no flange, and solidly mounted. The edges above the legs
were like dull knives. A metal panel mounted on composite panel (as suggested here) would have
a flange, and perhaps be just as safe as the original composite panel. Also, for decades,
many/most panels are on pods that rotate upwards, which reduces the chance for injury.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me)
- "A Guide to Self-Launching Sailplane Operation"
https://sites.google.com/site/motorgliders/publications/download-the-guide-1

[John Sinclair[_5_]]

On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 6:58:03 AM UTC-8, Eric Greenwell wrote:
> John Galloway wrote on 2/24/2021 6:18 AM:
> > On Wednesday, 24 February 2021 at 08:03:05 UTC, ben soaring wrote:
> >>> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
> >> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
> >>
> >> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
> >>
> >> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
> >>
> >> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
> >>
> >> So endeth the lesson and good luck.
> >
> > The reason that glider manufacturers stopped using aluminum panels was to reduce leg injuries in an accident or bail-out.
> >
> The panel on my Std Cirrus was metal, no flange, and solidly mounted. The edges above the legs
> were like dull knives. A metal panel mounted on composite panel (as suggested here) would have
> a flange, and perhaps be just as safe as the original composite panel. Also, for decades,
> many/most panels are on pods that rotate upwards, which reduces the chance for injury.
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me)
> - "A Guide to Self-Launching Sailplane Operation"
> https://sites.google.com/site/motorgliders/publications/download-the-guide-1

For those comfortable with fiberglass work, just scarf out the old panel from the rear, leaving the flange. Clamp to a flat surface that has mold release on it (plastic wrap works ok) and lay in 5 or 6 layers of medium strength cloth. Cut new holes with hole saw ( 2.25” & 3.125” available) in drill press from rear side. Fill, prime and paint in flat black.
Peace of cake,
JJ

[Phoenix]

On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 10:20:09 AM UTC-5, John Sinclair wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 6:58:03 AM UTC-8, Eric Greenwell wrote:
> > John Galloway wrote on 2/24/2021 6:18 AM:
> > > On Wednesday, 24 February 2021 at 08:03:05 UTC, ben soaring wrote:
> > >>> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
> > >> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
> > >>
> > >> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
> > >>
> > >> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
> > >>
> > >> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
> > >>
> > >> So endeth the lesson and good luck.
> > >
> > > The reason that glider manufacturers stopped using aluminum panels was to reduce leg injuries in an accident or bail-out.
> > >
> > The panel on my Std Cirrus was metal, no flange, and solidly mounted. The edges above the legs
> > were like dull knives. A metal panel mounted on composite panel (as suggested here) would have
> > a flange, and perhaps be just as safe as the original composite panel. Also, for decades,
> > many/most panels are on pods that rotate upwards, which reduces the chance for injury.
> > --
> > Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me)
> > - "A Guide to Self-Launching Sailplane Operation"
> > https://sites.google.com/site/motorgliders/publications/download-the-guide-1
> For those comfortable with fiberglass work, just scarf out the old panel from the rear, leaving the flange. Clamp to a flat surface that has mold release on it (plastic wrap works ok) and lay in 5 or 6 layers of medium strength cloth. Cut new holes with hole saw ( 2.25” & 3.125” available) in drill press from rear side. Fill, prime and paint in flat black..
> Peace of cake,
> JJ

Before the layup of 5 or 6 layers of cloth, why not also use micro fiber first to fill in the holes of the original panel, then use the cloth to bind it all together?

[John Sinclair[_5_]]

On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-8, Phoenix wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 10:20:09 AM UTC-5, John Sinclair wrote:
> > On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 6:58:03 AM UTC-8, Eric Greenwell wrote:
> > > John Galloway wrote on 2/24/2021 6:18 AM:
> > > > On Wednesday, 24 February 2021 at 08:03:05 UTC, ben soaring wrote:
> > > >>> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
> > > >> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
> > > >>
> > > >> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
> > > >>
> > > >> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
> > > >>
> > > >> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
> > > >>
> > > >> So endeth the lesson and good luck.
> > > >
> > > > The reason that glider manufacturers stopped using aluminum panels was to reduce leg injuries in an accident or bail-out.
> > > >
> > > The panel on my Std Cirrus was metal, no flange, and solidly mounted. The edges above the legs
> > > were like dull knives. A metal panel mounted on composite panel (as suggested here) would have
> > > a flange, and perhaps be just as safe as the original composite panel.. Also, for decades,
> > > many/most panels are on pods that rotate upwards, which reduces the chance for injury.
> > > --
> > > Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me)
> > > - "A Guide to Self-Launching Sailplane Operation"
> > > https://sites.google.com/site/motorgliders/publications/download-the-guide-1
> > For those comfortable with fiberglass work, just scarf out the old panel from the rear, leaving the flange. Clamp to a flat surface that has mold release on it (plastic wrap works ok) and lay in 5 or 6 layers of medium strength cloth. Cut new holes with hole saw ( 2.25” & 3.125” available) in drill press from rear side. Fill, prime and paint in flat black.
> > Peace of cake,
> > JJ
> Before the layup of 5 or 6 layers of cloth, why not also use micro fiber first to fill in the holes of the original panel, then use the cloth to bind it all together?


Good idea!
Recommend the instrument lay out be made from the rear to insure adequate room between instruments and edge of panel is maintained. I made drill guides by cutting off the face of old junk instruments to be used for mount bolt holes, after large holes are drilled.
JJ

[Dan Marotta]

Why not make a new panel by tracing the outline of the factory on the
new aluminum (or glass or carbon sheet), cutting it out, laying out the
new instrument holes, and cutting and drilling as necessary? It seems
much simpler, but I wonder if I'm missing something.

Dan
5J

On 2/24/21 1:03 AM, ben soaring wrote:
>
>> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
>
> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
>
> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
>
> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
>
> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
>
> So endeth the lesson and good luck.
>
>

[John Sinclair[_5_]]

On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 10:38:37 AM UTC-8, Dan Marotta wrote:
> Why not make a new panel by tracing the outline of the factory on the
> new aluminum (or glass or carbon sheet), cutting it out, laying out the
> new instrument holes, and cutting and drilling as necessary? It seems
> much simpler, but I wonder if I'm missing something.
>
> Dan
> 5J
> On 2/24/21 1:03 AM, ben soaring wrote:
> >
> >> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
> >
> > Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
> >
> > This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
> >
> > The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive.. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
> >
> > Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
> >
> > So endeth the lesson and good luck.
> >
> >


Best to keep the flange that most newer ships have incorporated. Much safer and the panel mount holes remain the same.

[Dan Marotta]

The flange is easy when using composite materials.

Dan
5J

On 2/24/21 4:20 PM, John Sinclair wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 10:38:37 AM UTC-8, Dan Marotta wrote:
>> Why not make a new panel by tracing the outline of the factory on the
>> new aluminum (or glass or carbon sheet), cutting it out, laying out the
>> new instrument holes, and cutting and drilling as necessary? It seems
>> much simpler, but I wonder if I'm missing something.
>>
>> Dan
>> 5J
>> On 2/24/21 1:03 AM, ben soaring wrote:
>>>
>>>> I like this concept. Got any photos to share??
>>>
>>> Sorry, no pictures. Mark is correct as double panel thickness does not work well. You can remove most of the factory panel face so the instruments mounted to the aluminum overlay do not not touch the original panel when attached. You just have to leave 4-6 tabs large enough to hold a rivnut and there is usually plenty of non-interfering factory panel material to locate the tabs. The most important thing is avoid cutting into the radius lip of the factory panel as it weakens the skeleton structure.
>>>
>>> This is not a kitchen table project; but, if you have access to tools and are handy, then it's no big deal. Use "hard" poster board to make a full panel template... no concern if it takes more than one try to get the template you like. You can layout the holes on the poster board which establishes where to locate the rivnut tabs. I use Adobe PDF , Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Publisher to make accurate (within 0.1mm) full size instrument "pictures" and move them around the poster board until the layout "works".
>>>
>>> The cheaper aluminum sheet from the local sheet metal shop works just fine. Use "soft" alloys like 3003 or 5052. 6061 is OK too but more expensive. Do not use hard aluminum like 2024 or 7005; its difficult to work with and much more expensive. 0.100 thickness works well.
>>>
>>> Cover the sheet aluminum with white contact "shelf paper"; it's much easier to draw on the contact paper than the bare aluminum. Use the poster board to trace out the full panel then cut with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. Layout your instrument holes and center punch. Then a drill press, a good fresh hole saw, and random files and you got it. Use a good hole saw, cheap ones can wobble making an oblong hole. Always cut a test hole and measure before you start on the real panel.
>>>
>>> So endeth the lesson and good luck.
>>>
>>>
>
>
> Best to keep the flange that most newer ships have incorporated. Much safer and the panel mount holes remain the same.
>

[krasw]

We would anyone go trough all this trouble when you can lay up a new panel over piece of mdf or plywood sawed to original form and basically copy any factory panel (+flanges), with few hours work? And just how expensive are those new panel? Last time I checked blank panel was few hundred euros.

[Domenico Bosco]

This is exactly what i did. I started from an old good panel, closed the old holes with carbon and glass fibre, and cut out the new ones. See the video documentation:
step 1: https://youtu.be/h1MMf7YTaAw
step 2: https://youtu.be/Hj998rtm7e4
step 3: https://youtu.be/W4QM83dzZ40

[R[_4_]]

Eccellente! Great videos.

R