Update - Fat Albert

[Denny]

Just an update on the ongoing saga...When we left Fat Albert he was
leaking oil somewhere on the port (that's the left side of the boat
when facing the pointy end, for you non sailors) engine acessory
case... I had gone through several iterations of: clean the oil off,
tighten everything I could reach, go fly, find new oil, repeat... I
finally became suspicious that the oil cooler hose (the one most
impossible to get a wrench on) was oozing internally and misting oil
out through the braid over its entire length, but only when the engine
got good and hot... So I decided to do the thing that all successful
mechanics recommend; change out everything in sight for new parts...
Anyway, I pulled the oil cooler hoses and the fuel line hoses (they
were rigid man, rigid...)... Called a place that specializes in hoses
and only hoses... He said just to measure the hoses and he would make
new ones...
"NOT!", I said... Having fallen off the turnip truck more than once I
know that is a sure recipe for getting the wrong hoses...
I paid to have the old hoses shipped to him, also setting the job back
4 days because of an intervening weekend.. So the new (and old) hoses
come back and Friday I whip out to the airport... I open the box and
they are gorgeous... They are teflon with stainless steel braid covered
with firesleeve, and they have official looking metal bands that are
laser etched with the hose data, the date, etc... The fittings are
brand new and shiny, the nuts have never seen a wrench yet.. They look
like a million bucks - and cost me almost that much... It would have
been perfect if all the hoses had been the correct size, but somehow
trying to thread a -5 fitting on where a -6 came off presented some
difficulties...
<picture me slooowly striking my forehead against a hard object because
it feels better than that way...

I picked up my phone and calmly dialed the hose guy...
"Awww, you gave me the wrong measurements.", he said...

Now for those of you who don't know me (that is most of you) I am a
friendly cuss... I usually have a smile and I always assume that I will
like you... At this moment the smile went away and I reverted back to
the dark side of the force... In a previous incarnation in a galaxy
far, far away I managed several hundred UAW skilled tradesmen, most of
whom had to have things explained to them in graphic language, complete
with the ramifications for failure... Millwrights were the ones most
needy of word pictures, with consequences...
I pointed out that the measurements were his, not mine!
"Well we're kinda busy, but I'll get right on it come Monday.", he said
I reverted to graphic language... In the end we agreed that he would
make a new hose of the correct size that very minute, drive it to the
UPS center as the UPS truck had already made the pickup for the day,
and ship it to me overnight - which he did...

So, Sunday morning I got back to the airport, hung that remaining hose,
flew the plane (cool day) and so far no oil leak (jury still out at
this point)... But at least the engine compartment looks good with all
the scrubbing and the flashy new hoses..

denny

[Jay Honeck]

> So, Sunday morning I got back to the airport, hung that remaining hose,
> flew the plane (cool day) and so far no oil leak (jury still out at
> this point)... But at least the engine compartment looks good with all
> the scrubbing and the flashy new hoses..

Great story, Denny. Hope it works out for you.

I've had a minor oil drip for months, and it's been driving me NUTS.
Nothing seems to be leaking, everything is tight, yet after a couple of
flights the bottom of the engine is oily.

It's been impossible to locate the source, since the airflow just blows
it all over the friggin' place, evenly coating the underside of the
engine with an oily sheen. (At least we know we'll never have to worry
about corrosion...) Even though we all know that a little oil looks
like a LOT Of oil, it's still the kind of thing that bugs you when you
open the hangar door and find a drip on the floor.

The greybeards at the airport think I'm just stupidly anal ("Hell, if
ain't drippin', it ain't an airplane!") -- but I believe in finding the
root cause BEFORE it becomes a problem.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www. AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

[George Patterson]

Jay Honeck wrote:

> I've had a minor oil drip for months, and it's been driving me NUTS.

Back in the stone age, auto mechanics used to have a flourescent oil that could
be added to the engine oil. Then a blacklight was used to pinpoint the leak. If
it's really driving you nuts, you might run this by your A&P.

George Patterson
Drink is the curse of the land. It makes you quarrel with your neighbor.
It makes you shoot at your landlord. And it makes you miss him.

[Jim Burns]

I've got one that sounds just like yours on the left engine of our Aztec.
It drives me crazy. At our last annual, we thought it was a mag gasket, so
we changed the gasket, no luck. I've checked all the case bolts and they
are snug. Repeatedly cleaned the engine, flown it, re-checked, and simply
can't find it. Presently, I'm thinking it is an oil return line under the
#1 cylinder. There is a drop that tends to hang under it, but like yours,
it's hard to figure out where it's comeing from. I need to get a new hose
clamp on it, just to be sure, but it is almost impossible to reach without
removeing the entire bottom cowling.

Jim


"Jay Honeck" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> > So, Sunday morning I got back to the airport, hung that remaining hose,
> > flew the plane (cool day) and so far no oil leak (jury still out at
> > this point)... But at least the engine compartment looks good with all
> > the scrubbing and the flashy new hoses..
>
> Great story, Denny. Hope it works out for you.
>
> I've had a minor oil drip for months, and it's been driving me NUTS.
> Nothing seems to be leaking, everything is tight, yet after a couple of
> flights the bottom of the engine is oily.
>
> It's been impossible to locate the source, since the airflow just blows
> it all over the friggin' place, evenly coating the underside of the
> engine with an oily sheen. (At least we know we'll never have to worry
> about corrosion...) Even though we all know that a little oil looks
> like a LOT Of oil, it's still the kind of thing that bugs you when you
> open the hangar door and find a drip on the floor.
>
> The greybeards at the airport think I'm just stupidly anal ("Hell, if
> ain't drippin', it ain't an airplane!") -- but I believe in finding the
> root cause BEFORE it becomes a problem.
> --
> Jay Honeck
> Iowa City, IA
> Pathfinder N56993
> www. AlexisParkInn.com
> "Your Aviation Destination"
>

[Denny]

Ummm, yup... Your local NAPA store has it on the shelf, it's called
engine dye... Got, it, put it in, fired up the UV light and discovered
everything on the engine glows in UV, especially gaskets... Then I
wandered over to the starboard engine and discovered that dip stick
glows also... Turns out theAv oil I'm using is fluorescent without the
dye... Back to square one...

denny

[Denny]

Pulling the cowlings on Fat Albert is a 40 minute job for two men...
Replacing them is in the ball park of an hour plus... I have had the
cowlings completely off and back on 4 times in the past three weeks
chasing this leak... Getting pretty good at it, but not liking it any
better... This is on top of having the cowlings off the starboard
engine to change out the starter a week before we started on the
leak...

A month ago had you brought it up I would have been full of smug
instructions for chasing down the pesky leak, after 50+ years of
wrenching on engines... Since then I've had my hat size reduced...
This hose has been a real thrash to chase down because it appears it
only leaks when really good and hot, and then it mists oil thin as
water over it's entire length which blows around putting a uniform
coating of oil everywhere... (this is assuming I've finally done it -
still waiting on that hot day to get it warm enough to prove it is
fixed)

denny

[Jim Burns]

Which Avoil are you useing? I'd be interested in trying the UV trick after
washing down the engine and running it up.
Jim

"Denny" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Ummm, yup... Your local NAPA store has it on the shelf, it's called
> engine dye... Got, it, put it in, fired up the UV light and discovered
> everything on the engine glows in UV, especially gaskets... Then I
> wandered over to the starboard engine and discovered that dip stick
> glows also... Turns out theAv oil I'm using is fluorescent without the
> dye... Back to square one...
>
> denny
>

[Jim Burns]

Someday I'm going to seriously investigate the STC's that are out there for
split bottom cowlings. The ones I've seen put a doubler along the bottom, I
believe, just ahead of the air intake. You end up with a row of screws
running across the bottom cowl. Someday....

The oil leak we've got also mists over the bottom of the engine and onto the
rear accessory case. It's mostly noticeable due to the small puddle that
accumulates on the rear of the fuel injection throttle body where the air is
rather dead. Never enough to be measurable on the dip stick, it's just a
messy irritation.

Jim

"Denny" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> Pulling the cowlings on Fat Albert is a 40 minute job for two men...
> Replacing them is in the ball park of an hour plus... I have had the
> cowlings completely off and back on 4 times in the past three weeks
> chasing this leak... Getting pretty good at it, but not liking it any
> better... This is on top of having the cowlings off the starboard
> engine to change out the starter a week before we started on the
> leak...
>
> A month ago had you brought it up I would have been full of smug
> instructions for chasing down the pesky leak, after 50+ years of
> wrenching on engines... Since then I've had my hat size reduced...
> This hose has been a real thrash to chase down because it appears it
> only leaks when really good and hot, and then it mists oil thin as
> water over it's entire length which blows around putting a uniform
> coating of oil everywhere... (this is assuming I've finally done it -
> still waiting on that hot day to get it warm enough to prove it is
> fixed)
>
> denny
>

[Jay Honeck]

> The oil leak we've got also mists over the bottom of the engine and onto the
> rear accessory case. It's mostly noticeable due to the small puddle that
> accumulates on the rear of the fuel injection throttle body where the air is
> rather dead. Never enough to be measurable on the dip stick, it's just a
> messy irritation.

That describes our leak as well. We've got grills that look like
"gills" on both aft sides of our bottom cowling, and a tiny trail of
oil will occasionally come out the lower right side "gill" -- never the
left. After sitting overnight, a drip will fall out of that area onto
the hangar floor, below that right gill.

Looking at the bottom of the engine, it's covered with a sheen of oil
-- but finding the source has been infuriating. There is no obvious
drip or puddle, and everything appears to be tight. Hell, it could be
running down from the TOP of the engine, hitting the 150 mph
slipstream, and atomizing all over the bottom -- only to gather back
into a droplet at the very bottom/lowest point.

It's never enough to register on the dipstick, but it sure makes a
mess. I'd love to find the source.

What makes it doubly aggravating is that we installed an air/oil
separator to eliminate oil on the bottom of the plane. (Which it did
quite well, until this leak developed...)
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

[Jim Burns]

> What makes it doubly aggravating is that we installed an air/oil
> separator to eliminate oil on the bottom of the plane. (Which it did
> quite well, until this leak developed...)

:) I think Atlas is spiting you! :)
Jim

[[email protected]]

On 17 Oct 2005 10:21:28 -0700, "Denny" > wrote:

>Ummm, yup... Your local NAPA store has it on the shelf, it's called
>engine dye... Got, it, put it in, fired up the UV light and discovered
>everything on the engine glows in UV, especially gaskets... Then I
>wandered over to the starboard engine and discovered that dip stick
>glows also... Turns out theAv oil I'm using is fluorescent without the
>dye... Back to square one...

When the oil fluoresces (sp?) without the dye you need to do a good
high-flash solvent wash job on the engine when it's hot, then grab a
fire extinguisher, drag the thing outside and dump a gallon of
anhydrous isopropyl into your solvent sprayer and repeat.

I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know-but Apache cowls
SUCK r/r-wise. Mr. Burns just doesn't have enuff practice with his
Aztec cowls yet.

Had a 450 Pratt giving me fits year ago. Dug out the Zyglo light and
dumped in the dye.

Idle to operating oil temp (if the oil ain't hot, the oil in the tank
doesn't circulate), high power for 15 minutes, 5 minute cool down-no
joy-zip, zilch, nada. High power for 30 minutes, 5 minute cool
down-zip, zilch, nada. Grabbed a pilot that was handy (still have
never mastered a twin-engine w/conventional gear) went around the
patch ONCE.

Grabbed the light, stuck it in the cowl-the entire engine was glowing.
Don't remember what was found to be the culprit, but the dye sure
wasn't the answer on that one.

Only nagging leak that I ever found with dye was on a P-baron. Oil was
"going away", nothing evident but what looked like normal minor leaks.

Repeated the procedure listed above, found nothing. Let them fly it on
a trip, drug out the light found visible dye on the trailing edge of
the flap. Compressions were perfect. Hmm.

Yanked three jugs and had 'em re-worked w/new rings, oil consumption
cut by one half, yanked the other three, oil consumption back to
normal. The oil film on the flap was not visible with out the black
light. Would never had believed it was blowing by without the dye. Was
one of my first experiences with operation at altitude causing heavier
breathing out the breather.

Have found most of my nagging oil leaks by using solvent/alcohol spray
and generic aerosol foot powder. Just make sure you solvent spray the
foot powder off after you find the leak, for all I know the stuff is
corrosive.

BTW, just how old were those oil lines?

TC

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 19:37:55 -0700, "Jim Burns"
> wrote:

>> I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know-but Apache cowls
>> SUCK r/r-wise. Mr. Burns just doesn't have enuff practice with his
>> Aztec cowls yet.
>
>TC, are you telling me that the Apache cowls are worse than the Aztecs?
>You're right, we don't have much practice with ours yet (knock on wood).
>We've only had the bottoms off once so far, but it was quite and experience.
>I know enough to be the "screw driver/feed it into place man" and not the
>"flat on my back holding it up with two arms, one knee and the opposite
>foot/can't do crap from down here man"! :) We weren't nearly as fast as
>Denny, more like 40 minutes off and an hour on for EACH of them, but it was
>our first time and we definitely learned how they fit up into the fairings!
>sheesh!

Yes, they are worse.

Oldest Aztruck I ever worked on was late 60's, not entirely sure if it
is identical to yours.

Figured out a long time ago to inspect all nutplates-especially the
little #6 nutplates on the bottom cowl-EVERY TIME the cowls are off,
spray a dab of LPS2 (or equivalent) into 'em, plus use brand new
structural stainless screws (and a screwdriver that fits properly) to
put the inside-the-wheelwell crap back together. You are talking about
maybe two bucks worth of screws to save a crapload of aggravation.

Stick a body inboard and somebody outboard, feed the side channels
onto the stub mounting brackets sticking out of the firewall-making
sure that the bottom angles at the 'well are outside of the 'well tin.
Use a short tapered punch in the aft hole, stick a screw in the front
hole, snug it up, poke the screws into the aft holes-the cowl will
stay in place now while you line everything else up.

Grab a creeper, stick a screw into each "tail" sticking out aft on the
bottom, work your way up the sides of the firewall-using your foot to
apply a mild correction as needed. Screws inside the 'well are next.
Depending how clapped-out your cowls are, sometimes you need to leave
everything snug (as opposed to tight) until all the puzzle pieces are
in place (less the fillet fairings) until the cheeks are snapped on
before tightening everything completely. Just remember to pop the
cheeks back off to tighten the flush-heads under them FWD top &
bottom.

Nose bowls are next. Two layers of 2 inch masking tape flush with the
leading edge of the bottom cowl on the outside. Bowl halves together
with the bottom OUTSIDE of the bottom cowl. Top wire in, bowl will
stay in place. Baby vise grips on the bottom wire, line up the halves,
use the grips to slide the bottom #!!$$!! wire in. Carefully tip the
bowl aft at the top, fwd at the bottom 'til it slips fwd & inside of
the bottom cowl. The rest is pretty straight forward-but again, you do
not want to get the thing 75% assembled before you realize that you've
got a missing or boogered-up nutplate.

Random Aztruck thought-if you've got cowl flap stops that are long
screws threaded through a funky lock nut/L bracket riveted to the
firewall look and see if someone has threaded a plain nut up under the
locknut. If you put a plain nut on as a jam nut, it helps keep the
funky lock nut from shaking loose where it's squeezed into the little
L bracket. Can't help you with the springie-thingie on the exhaust.

TC

[Jim Burns]

> I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know-but Apache cowls
> SUCK r/r-wise. Mr. Burns just doesn't have enuff practice with his
> Aztec cowls yet.

TC, are you telling me that the Apache cowls are worse than the Aztecs?
You're right, we don't have much practice with ours yet (knock on wood).
We've only had the bottoms off once so far, but it was quite and experience.
I know enough to be the "screw driver/feed it into place man" and not the
"flat on my back holding it up with two arms, one knee and the opposite
foot/can't do crap from down here man"! :) We weren't nearly as fast as
Denny, more like 40 minutes off and an hour on for EACH of them, but it was
our first time and we definitely learned how they fit up into the fairings!
sheesh!

Jim

[nrp]

I'm glad I only have a 172M. Cowl is off and back on in 10 minutes
total.

[Dave Stadt]

> wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 19:37:55 -0700, "Jim Burns"
> > wrote:
>
> >> I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know-but Apache cowls
> >> SUCK r/r-wise. Mr. Burns just doesn't have enuff practice with his
> >> Aztec cowls yet.
> >
> >TC, are you telling me that the Apache cowls are worse than the Aztecs?
> >You're right, we don't have much practice with ours yet (knock on wood).
> >We've only had the bottoms off once so far, but it was quite and
experience.
> >I know enough to be the "screw driver/feed it into place man" and not the
> >"flat on my back holding it up with two arms, one knee and the opposite
> >foot/can't do crap from down here man"! :) We weren't nearly as fast as
> >Denny, more like 40 minutes off and an hour on for EACH of them, but it
was
> >our first time and we definitely learned how they fit up into the
fairings!
> >sheesh!
>
> Yes, they are worse.
>
> Oldest Aztruck I ever worked on was late 60's, not entirely sure if it
> is identical to yours.
>
> Figured out a long time ago to inspect all nutplates-especially the
> little #6 nutplates on the bottom cowl-EVERY TIME the cowls are off,
> spray a dab of LPS2 (or equivalent) into 'em, plus use brand new
> structural stainless screws (and a screwdriver that fits properly) to
> put the inside-the-wheelwell crap back together. You are talking about
> maybe two bucks worth of screws to save a crapload of aggravation.
>
> Stick a body inboard and somebody outboard, feed the side channels
> onto the stub mounting brackets sticking out of the firewall-making
> sure that the bottom angles at the 'well are outside of the 'well tin.
> Use a short tapered punch in the aft hole, stick a screw in the front
> hole, snug it up, poke the screws into the aft holes-the cowl will
> stay in place now while you line everything else up.
>
> Grab a creeper, stick a screw into each "tail" sticking out aft on the
> bottom, work your way up the sides of the firewall-using your foot to
> apply a mild correction as needed. Screws inside the 'well are next.
> Depending how clapped-out your cowls are, sometimes you need to leave
> everything snug (as opposed to tight) until all the puzzle pieces are
> in place (less the fillet fairings) until the cheeks are snapped on
> before tightening everything completely. Just remember to pop the
> cheeks back off to tighten the flush-heads under them FWD top &
> bottom.
>
> Nose bowls are next. Two layers of 2 inch masking tape flush with the
> leading edge of the bottom cowl on the outside. Bowl halves together
> with the bottom OUTSIDE of the bottom cowl. Top wire in, bowl will
> stay in place. Baby vise grips on the bottom wire, line up the halves,
> use the grips to slide the bottom #!!$$!! wire in. Carefully tip the
> bowl aft at the top, fwd at the bottom 'til it slips fwd & inside of
> the bottom cowl. The rest is pretty straight forward-but again, you do
> not want to get the thing 75% assembled before you realize that you've
> got a missing or boogered-up nutplate.
>
> Random Aztruck thought-if you've got cowl flap stops that are long
> screws threaded through a funky lock nut/L bracket riveted to the
> firewall look and see if someone has threaded a plain nut up under the
> locknut. If you put a plain nut on as a jam nut, it helps keep the
> funky lock nut from shaking loose where it's squeezed into the little
> L bracket. Can't help you with the springie-thingie on the exhaust.
>
> TC

An annual on my lil old Cessna is less complicated.

[Jim Burns]

Thanks again TC!

> Oldest Aztruck I ever worked on was late 60's, not entirely sure if it
> is identical to yours.

Yep, C's and D's are the same. They cover the last 1/2 of the 60's.

>
> Figured out a long time ago to inspect all nutplates-especially the
> little #6 nutplates on the bottom cowl-EVERY TIME the cowls are off,
> spray a dab of LPS2 (or equivalent) into 'em,

Then just run a tap through them with your finger tips

> plus use brand new
> structural stainless screws (and a screwdriver that fits properly) to
> put the inside-the-wheelwell crap back together. You are talking about
> maybe two bucks worth of screws to save a crapload of aggravation.

Bingo. In fact, I need to order another SS screw kit. Any screw I take out
that has the slightest ding or shaved thread goes right in the garbage.

> (Great step by step directions snipped.... excellent archive material and
copied and saved... basically the way we've done it and just about the only
way I can imagine doing it.)

Nose bowls I've become a pro at and can do them by myself in only a few
minutes.

> Two layers of 2 inch masking tape flush with the
> leading edge of the bottom cowl on the outside. ??? masking tape?

>Bowl halves together
> with the bottom OUTSIDE of the bottom cowl.
(or you'll get the bowl "trapped" on the inside of the cowl and won't be
able to get the bottom wire in)

Hint: coat wire and dab piano hinge with a little Dow DC4, especially the
bottom wire because it has complex curves to follow. Also, sharpen the end
of the wire to a point, it will you feed it though the piano hinge. Be sure
you get the end of the wire past the "hook" and engaged so it won't back
out.

>Top wire in, bowl will
> stay in place. Baby vise grips on the bottom wire, line up the halves,
> use the grips to slide the bottom #!!$$!! wire in.

Again, coat the wire with DC 4. Clamp the vise grips on the wire so they
lay horizontally, rather than vertically because when you get the wire
almost all the way in, the space between the bowl and the bottom cowl
becomes very narrow. Use your free hand to massage the two halves together
while you "screw and push" the wire in with the vise grips.

>Carefully tip the
> bowl aft at the top, fwd at the bottom 'til it slips fwd & inside of
> the bottom cowl. The rest is pretty straight forward-but again, you do
> not want to get the thing 75% assembled before you realize that you've
> got a missing or boogered-up nutplate.
>
> Random Aztruck thought-if you've got cowl flap stops that are long
> screws threaded through a funky lock nut/L bracket riveted to the
> firewall look and see if someone has threaded a plain nut up under the
> locknut. If you put a plain nut on as a jam nut, it helps keep the
> funky lock nut from shaking loose where it's squeezed into the little
> L bracket.

Thanks I'll check that.

>Can't help you with the springie-thingie on the exhaust.

$485 new.
OR... get 2 pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" aluminum, drill 20 or so holes through
them, thread new SS cable through the holes, punch down the edge of the
aluminum so the cable can't slip inside the aluminum bars, swage the ends of
the cable. 2 hours labor and about $10 in material.

Jim

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 08:08:41 -0500, "Jim Burns"
> wrote:

snip

>> Random Aztruck thought-if you've got cowl flap stops that are long
>> screws threaded through a funky lock nut/L bracket riveted to the
>> firewall look and see if someone has threaded a plain nut up under the
>> locknut. If you put a plain nut on as a jam nut, it helps keep the
>> funky lock nut from shaking loose where it's squeezed into the little
>> L bracket.
>
>Thanks I'll check that.
>
>>Can't help you with the springie-thingie on the exhaust.
>
>$485 new.
>OR... get 2 pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" aluminum, drill 20 or so holes through
>them, thread new SS cable through the holes, punch down the edge of the
>aluminum so the cable can't slip inside the aluminum bars, swage the ends of
>the cable. 2 hours labor and about $10 in material.

I like it. My only problem would have been trying to sell it to the
federales (on the Pt 135 'Trucks).

'Nother big gotcha is the center hinge bolt on the main gear retract
drag link. Takes about 2 minutes to inspect. If your mechanic hasn't
been around Aztec's much they might miss it. Ours got checked every
every oil change.

Long story short, the bolt goes through two little tin ears with the
downlock springs hooked to them. The bolt snaps in the middle of the
link, the spring tension holds the bolt halves in place. The head of
the bolt is kept from rotating by an ear on the link. Looks perfectly
fine until you stick a wrench on the cotter-pinned nut and turn it
freely.

Was never able to figure out why they snapped, never had one fall out
of place (which is really strange), but have found quite a few of them
broken. There are a couple of them listed in the SDR's where the bolt
evidently didn't stay in place after it broke...

Regards;

TC

[Jim Burns]

> 'Nother big gotcha is the center hinge bolt on the main gear retract
> drag link. Takes about 2 minutes to inspect. If your mechanic hasn't
> been around Aztec's much they might miss it. Ours got checked every
> every oil change.

Thanks. I know exactly where you are talking about. I'll give the nuts a
turn to see if they are still attatched to the rest of the bolt!

Jim

[Roger]

On 17 Oct 2005 12:12:06 -0700, "Jay Honeck" >
wrote:

>> The oil leak we've got also mists over the bottom of the engine and onto the
>> rear accessory case. It's mostly noticeable due to the small puddle that
>> accumulates on the rear of the fuel injection throttle body where the air is
>> rather dead. Never enough to be measurable on the dip stick, it's just a
>> messy irritation.
>
>That describes our leak as well. We've got grills that look like
>"gills" on both aft sides of our bottom cowling, and a tiny trail of
>oil will occasionally come out the lower right side "gill" -- never the
>left. After sitting overnight, a drip will fall out of that area onto
>the hangar floor, below that right gill.
>
>Looking at the bottom of the engine, it's covered with a sheen of oil
>-- but finding the source has been infuriating. There is no obvious
>drip or puddle, and everything appears to be tight. Hell, it could be
>running down from the TOP of the engine, hitting the 150 mph
>slipstream, and atomizing all over the bottom -- only to gather back
>into a droplet at the very bottom/lowest point.
>
>It's never enough to register on the dipstick, but it sure makes a
>mess. I'd love to find the source.
>
>What makes it doubly aggravating is that we installed an air/oil
>separator to eliminate oil on the bottom of the plane. (Which it did
>quite well, until this leak developed...)

I found that spilling a teaspoon full when filling is good enough to
cover the entire bottom of the Deb.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com