Paint

[Steve]

I have a couple sections on my Cessna that I would like to repaint. Could
anyone recommend a book or guide for doing this? Specifically I'm looking
for what help on whay type of stripper and paint to use, primer
requirements, ...

Thanks,
Steve

[Michelle]

Steve wrote:
> I have a couple sections on my Cessna that I would like to repaint. Could
> anyone recommend a book or guide for doing this? Specifically I'm looking
> for what help on whay type of stripper and paint to use, primer
> requirements, ...
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>
>
have you looked at the Cessna Manual? This is the final authority.

MEK takes the paint off nicely and you will have to use primer. I
typically use the Zinc Chormate on the metal.

Respirator is a must.

Michelle

[darthpup]

I have repainted my PA28-140 twice in the last twenty years. The only
paint I would recommend is Dupont Imron. I have tried other paints on
the trim areas but they did not last. Imron is very toxic and must be
used outside or with a respirator if in hanger. Zinc chromate is bad
for your health also, so be careful.

If you use Imron just use a splash of accelerator otherwise it will not
gloss well.

[Jay Honeck]

> MEK takes the paint off nicely and you will have to use primer.

MEK takes paint off?

Maybe eventually, but I've not noticed that it had much effect on Imron.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

[john smith]

In article >,
"Steve" > wrote:

> I have a couple sections on my Cessna that I would like to repaint. Could
> anyone recommend a book or guide for doing this? Specifically I'm looking
> for what help on whay type of stripper and paint to use, primer
> requirements, ...

Go to www.redam.com
Click on the products link
Click on the STAZZ WET link

No MEK, no respirator, deactivates with water.
Use the gelled version, scrape it off, filter out the removed paint, use
it again.
Using the gelled version, you can also remove vinyl letters and decals
without harming the paint.

[Michael]

> "Steve" > wrote:
>
> > I have a couple sections on my Cessna that I would like to repaint. Could
> > anyone recommend a book or guide for doing this? Specifically I'm looking
> > for what help on whay type of stripper and paint to use, primer
> > requirements, ...

Are you touching up in small spots or painting whole panels? I've been
looking into touching up spots around windows. Imron is a spectacularly
expensive touchup paint! I painted a spinner a couple of years ago with
an automotive two-stage paint and it's holding up great although I
decided to polish my planes spinner because it "seemed" (another story)
like it would be easier. Any paint system is expensive since you need
to buy the catalyst, the appropriate thinner and other extras like a
dewaxer solvent
Owner painting is okay if it's not a control surface. I've been
planning on touching up with a gravity feed touchup gun because it
needs the least amount of paint in the cup, how were you going to apply
the paint?
Michael

[Steve]

Thanks for the help everyone!
I need to redo my entire cowl where it's scratched up from years of taking
it on and off. Plus the empennage is looking pretty rough from the bad
things that birds do to airplanes sitting under an open style T-Hangar. I
don't mind spending the money on quality paint and tools, and I'd much
rather do it myself than take it to a paint shop. (Buy the tool once and use
it many times is almost always better for me than paying someone to do the
job that already has the tool...)
I don't currently have a paint gun of any type, so unless someone has a
specific recommendation on the sprayer I was just going to start googling
and see what I can find. I have access to an area that I can paint in that
has electriciy and an air-compressor.
Steve

"Michael" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> > "Steve" > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a couple sections on my Cessna that I would like to repaint.
Could
> > > anyone recommend a book or guide for doing this? Specifically I'm
looking
> > > for what help on whay type of stripper and paint to use, primer
> > > requirements, ...
>
> Are you touching up in small spots or painting whole panels? I've been
> looking into touching up spots around windows. Imron is a spectacularly
> expensive touchup paint! I painted a spinner a couple of years ago with
> an automotive two-stage paint and it's holding up great although I
> decided to polish my planes spinner because it "seemed" (another story)
> like it would be easier. Any paint system is expensive since you need
> to buy the catalyst, the appropriate thinner and other extras like a
> dewaxer solvent
> Owner painting is okay if it's not a control surface. I've been
> planning on touching up with a gravity feed touchup gun because it
> needs the least amount of paint in the cup, how were you going to apply
> the paint?
> Michael
>

[Clay]

Painting a control surface is not a big deal. Just have it balanced
and signed off.
You can get good painting information from the EAA. Also, you may want
to check out some of these discussion forums on the net.
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
http://www.sharpe1.com/cgi-bin/ubb/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro
http://www.autorestorer.com/
Ron Alexander wrote an excellent article several years ago.
http://exp-aircraft.com/library/alexande/painting.html

[[email protected]]

I second the recommendation for Staz-Wet. I stripped my whole plane
with it - and would say that it works as advertised. You can also get
the liquid version - but be forewarned that it evaporates quickly. The
gel dries out before too long as well - but you can reactivate it with
the liquid.

David Johnson

[darthpup]

Be warned that spray painting is more than just a skill, it is an art.
You will need to practice before you attempt to paint that cowl. There
are numerous paint guns available. Try Northern Tool. They have
numerous outlets and a web site. You will need a device to separate
atmospheric water from the compressed air, also.
Also, the regs require weighing and rebalancing control surfaces.
( a bunch of )
So be cautious what you tell your mechanic at the next annual..
Again, Imron is dangerous stuff. Had a pilot at the field sent to
the hospital for two weeks for not using an aspirator while spraying in
a hanger. It can be absorbed through the skin and disrupt the nervous
system. Almost as bad a nerve gas.
Dupont has a second tier product paint, Chromacolor, a binary paint
which is typically used on autos. I do not have any experience with
this product.

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article . com>,
"Michael" > wrote:

> > "Steve" > wrote:
> >
> > > I have a couple sections on my Cessna that I would like to repaint. Could
> > > anyone recommend a book or guide for doing this? Specifically I'm looking
> > > for what help on whay type of stripper and paint to use, primer
> > > requirements, ...
>
> Are you touching up in small spots or painting whole panels? I've been
> looking into touching up spots around windows. Imron is a spectacularly
> expensive touchup paint! I painted a spinner a couple of years ago with
> an automotive two-stage paint and it's holding up great although I
> decided to polish my planes spinner because it "seemed" (another story)
> like it would be easier. Any paint system is expensive since you need
> to buy the catalyst, the appropriate thinner and other extras like a
> dewaxer solvent
> Owner painting is okay if it's not a control surface. I've been
> planning on touching up with a gravity feed touchup gun because it
> needs the least amount of paint in the cup, how were you going to apply
> the paint?
> Michael

I have found that an airbrush is great for touchup with Imron. You can
mix up the stuff by the 1/4 teaspoon, if you like, and touchup some very
small areas.

I have also found that you can store mixed Imron in small bottles in the
freezer for about a week. The freezer inhibits the setup of the paint
sufficiently to keep it alive. This also works for 2-part epoxy primers.

--
Remve "_" from email to reply to me personally.

[john smith]

In article . com>,
wrote:

> I second the recommendation for Staz-Wet. I stripped my whole plane
> with it - and would say that it works as advertised. You can also get
> the liquid version - but be forewarned that it evaporates quickly. The
> gel dries out before too long as well - but you can reactivate it with
> the liquid.

Years ago we talked about putting something like Saran wrap over it to
prevent/slow the evaporation. I cannot remember if worked.

[john smith]

> Again, Imron is dangerous stuff. Had a pilot at the field sent to
> the hospital for two weeks for not using an aspirator while spraying in
> a hanger. It can be absorbed through the skin and disrupt the nervous
> system. Almost as bad a nerve gas.

I do believe you mean respirator, not aspirator.
Specifically, a pressure hood.
No part of your body should be exposed when using IMRON.
That means wearing a pressure hood, set of coveralls, gloves and boots.
THEN tape the wrist and ankles to seal.

[darthpup]

I use Imron outside and stay up breeze from the spray with no problems.

[Jay Honeck]

>I use Imron outside and stay up breeze from the spray with no problems.

Whoo-whee! I can just imagine what the EPA-types are thinking right now...

;-)
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

[Mike Spera]

Jay Honeck wrote:
>>I use Imron outside and stay up breeze from the spray with no problems.
>
>
> Whoo-whee! I can just imagine what the EPA-types are thinking right now...
>
> ;-)
Interestingly, the EPA usually passes on chasing down individuals
engaging in certain polluting activities on a one time basis when it is
done for non commercial and personal purposes. Open a business doing it
and that usually catches their attention.

Even body shops can get away with "spot" painting to the open air. When
they get into "complete" paint jobs, then the rules change and they are
required to have a spray booth. Oddly, most spray booths do nothing to
actually treat the cyanide laced air they spew out.

The OSHA folks also weigh in on these activities. Depending on the type
of paint, there is a whole slew of rules as to what you are required to
provide to workers (respirator masks, fresh air supply, body
covering(s), etc.)

Even outside, I use a dual filter respirator. There really is no way to
stay out of the mist when painting all around an object. The mask
catches some percentage of the substances in paint, but the worst
offenders in Imron pass right through. Most polyurethanes also tend to
clog the outer filter pretty quickly even before it gets to the charcoal
part. So, you need to change them frequently (like after every use).

Mike

[Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe]

"Jay Honeck" > wrote in message
news:x8Hvf.682617$x96.306347@attbi_s72...
> >I use Imron outside and stay up breeze from the spray with no problems.
>
> Whoo-whee! I can just imagine what the EPA-types are thinking right
> now...
>


EPA? More what his health insurance company is thinking.

--
Geoff
the sea hawk at wow way d0t com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
Spell checking is left as an excercise for the reader.

[darthpup]

Sounds like one of those weenie burger adds.