Corrosion X

[[email protected]]

Based on his inspection of our Arrow's airframe during its current annual,
our mech is recommending a Corrosion X treatment. Anybody have one done at
one the authorized Corrosion X Treatment Centers? Feedback, good or bad?
Cost? How long did it take? I'll go ahead and call the nearest center
(which is not exactly convenient) but thought I'd ask for opinions and
advice from the group first.

-Elliott Drucker

[Denny]

This is not rocket science... Bubba the mechanic can do this one... Get
some ACF-50 and a sprayer with a long nozzle, put on your common sense
hat and you and Bubba go for it...

denny

wrote:
> Based on his inspection of our Arrow's airframe during its current annual,
> our mech is recommending a Corrosion X treatment. Anybody have one done at
> one the authorized Corrosion X Treatment Centers? Feedback, good or bad?
> Cost? How long did it take? I'll go ahead and call the nearest center
> (which is not exactly convenient) but thought I'd ask for opinions and
> advice from the group first.
>
> -Elliott Drucker

[Dan Luke]

> wrote:

> Based on his inspection of our Arrow's airframe during its current annual,
> our mech is recommending a Corrosion X treatment. Anybody have one done
> at
> one the authorized Corrosion X Treatment Centers? Feedback, good or bad?
> Cost? How long did it take? I'll go ahead and call the nearest center
> (which is not exactly convenient) but thought I'd ask for opinions and
> advice from the group first.

Getting it done is no big deal. I have it done to my airplane every other
annual.

My airplane has been parked two miles from Mobile Bay for six years and
shows no signs of airframe corrosion.

--
Dan
C172RG at BFM

[[email protected]]

On 16-Jun-2006, "Dan Luke" > wrote:

> Getting it done is no big deal. I have it done to my airplane every other
> annual.
>
> My airplane has been parked two miles from Mobile Bay for six years and
> shows no signs of airframe corrosion.


Good news for a change! For some reason I had it in my mind that the
process was fairly involved and thus expensive. Our Arrow has nearly always
been hangared, and corrosion has not, to date, been an issue. But now our
mech is seeing some very minor powdering and recommends the treatment.
We'll probably get it done in the next couple of weeks.

I previously co-owned a C-172 that spent its entire life (18 years when we
sold it) outdoors, never had any anti-corrosion treatment and never had any
serious corrosion issues. This is in Seattle, so the plane got rained on
regularly. Apparently salt is a much bigger issue than wet. The plane was
parked at BFI, less than a mile from Puget Sound (sal****er). But there is
very little salt in the air and on the ground here. Humidity in summer is
generally low, and no need for salt or other chemicals for clearing ice from
roads in winter.

-Elliott Drucker

[Ronnie]

Just curious if anyone has ever suspected ACF-50 or
other corrosion treatment as being bad for some
plastic / bakelite type parts? The reason I ask is that
my C172 had been treated with ACF-50 in years past via
the previous owner. I had a flap failure one day
and discovered the cause was the microswitches
in the right wing that sense flap full-up / full-down
position. Both switch cases had broken down to the point
that just touching them caused them to crumble into
pieces. I'd never seen anything like that before, and
I've handled a lot of old microswitches. The only
possible explaination I could offer was that the ACF-50
might have damaged the hard plastic case on the microswitches.

Of course maybe it was some other lubricant or cleaner that
had been sprayed into that area inside the wing.

Anybody else ever see anything like this?

Ronnie

"Dan Luke" > wrote in message
...
>
> > wrote:
>
>> Based on his inspection of our Arrow's airframe during its current
>> annual,
>> our mech is recommending a Corrosion X treatment. Anybody have one done
>> at
>> one the authorized Corrosion X Treatment Centers? Feedback, good or bad?
>> Cost? How long did it take? I'll go ahead and call the nearest center
>> (which is not exactly convenient) but thought I'd ask for opinions and
>> advice from the group first.
>
> Getting it done is no big deal. I have it done to my airplane every other
> annual.
>
> My airplane has been parked two miles from Mobile Bay for six years and
> shows no signs of airframe corrosion.
>
> --
> Dan
> C172RG at BFM
>

[Dan Luke]

"Ronnie" wrote:

> Just curious if anyone has ever suspected ACF-50 or
> other corrosion treatment as being bad for some
> plastic / bakelite type parts?

Nope.

My only gripe about Corrosion X is that it leaves oily streaks on the finish
(they wash off) for months after each application. Necessary evil, I
suppose.

--
Dan
C172RG at BFM

[Juan Jimenez]

No reason to hire anyone to do that other than to save yourself the trouble.
I use it for everything I need to protect from corrosion here in the
caribbean, even my car, scooter, etc. 100% results. It works exactly as
advertised and then some. All you need to do is open up those inspection
panels and access points, maybe remove the interior and the paneling to get
to the inside of the back of the aircraft, and apply.

> wrote in message
news:wUokg.17361$Bj6.12126@trnddc08...
> Based on his inspection of our Arrow's airframe during its current annual,
> our mech is recommending a Corrosion X treatment. Anybody have one done
> at
> one the authorized Corrosion X Treatment Centers? Feedback, good or bad?
> Cost? How long did it take? I'll go ahead and call the nearest center
> (which is not exactly convenient) but thought I'd ask for opinions and
> advice from the group first.
>
> -Elliott Drucker



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

[Roger]

On 16 Jun 2006 04:02:32 -0700, "Denny" > wrote:

>This is not rocket science... Bubba the mechanic can do this one... Get
>some ACF-50 and a sprayer with a long nozzle, put on your common sense
>hat and you and Bubba go for it...

LPS-2 also works. Just don't have this work done in the winter. Once
the temperature comes up, it'll drip for two weeks in the hot sun.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
>
>denny
>
wrote:
>> Based on his inspection of our Arrow's airframe during its current annual,
>> our mech is recommending a Corrosion X treatment. Anybody have one done at
>> one the authorized Corrosion X Treatment Centers? Feedback, good or bad?
>> Cost? How long did it take? I'll go ahead and call the nearest center
>> (which is not exactly convenient) but thought I'd ask for opinions and
>> advice from the group first.
>>
>> -Elliott Drucker

[Roger]

On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 17:55:06 -0500, "Dan Luke"
> wrote:

>
>"Ronnie" wrote:
>
>> Just curious if anyone has ever suspected ACF-50 or
>> other corrosion treatment as being bad for some
>> plastic / bakelite type parts?
>
>Nope.
>
>My only gripe about Corrosion X is that it leaves oily streaks on the finish
>(they wash off) for months after each application. Necessary evil, I
>suppose.

You "wash" your airplane? Next you'll be giving your cat a bath.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

[Dan Luke]

"Roger" wrote:

>
> You "wash" your airplane? Next you'll be giving your cat a bath.
>

Heh.

My airplane is parked under cover but not in a hangar. At BFM, jet engines
and APUs are running almost constantly at Mobile Aerospace Engineering.
Jet-A soot, dust and salt spray stick to the plane overnight when it gets
wet from condensation. I can wash it on Sunday and it will be filthy again
by Friday, just by sitting there.

Usually, I just give it a quick squirt bath with the hose. About every
other month it gets a real wash.

--
Dan
C172RG at BFM

[Don Byrer]

On Sat, 17 Jun 2006 01:27:53 -0400, Roger
> wrote:

>On 16 Jun 2006 04:02:32 -0700, "Denny" > wrote:
>
>>This is not rocket science... Bubba the mechanic can do this one... Get
>>some ACF-50 and a sprayer with a long nozzle, put on your common sense
>>hat and you and Bubba go for it...
>
>LPS-2 also works. Just don't have this work done in the winter. Once
>the temperature comes up, it'll drip for two weeks in the hot sun.
>

Don't you mean LPS 3? LPS 2 is a lube, LPS 3 is much thicker and is
a corrosion preventative

(and while were on the subject...LPS1 is a non-oily lube)

--Don
Don Byrer
Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy
Amateur Radio KJ5KB
kj5kb-at-hotmail.com

"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..."
"Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"

[jls]

Roger wrote:
> On 16 Jun 2006 04:02:32 -0700, "Denny" > wrote:
>
> >This is not rocket science... Bubba the mechanic can do this one... Get
> >some ACF-50 and a sprayer with a long nozzle, put on your common sense
> >hat and you and Bubba go for it...
>
> LPS-2 also works. Just don't have this work done in the winter. Once
> the temperature comes up, it'll drip for two weeks in the hot sun.
>
> Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
> (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
> www.rogerhalstead.com
> >

I thought it was LPS-3. That's what we use and much cheaper than the
other ones but just as effective.

[darthpup]

ACF 50 very good at stopping corrosion. In spots where you can clean
it up apply some linseed oil or stand oil. I have used ACF for the
last thirty years on my Cherokee. Also good for old radios and
electrical connections. Rejuventates the plastic also in the interior.
Apply the ACF 50 yourself with compressed air and spray nozzle. It
inproves anything it comes in contact with.

[Frank Ch. Eigler]

"darthpup" > writes:

> ACF 50 very good at stopping corrosion. [...] Apply the ACF 50
> yourself with compressed air and spray nozzle. It inproves anything
> it comes in contact with.

Plus it turns peeled apples green, and is a great steak marinade.

- FChE

[[email protected]]

On 19 Jun 2006 17:43:50 -0400, (Frank Ch. Eigler)
wrote:

>
>"darthpup" > writes:
>
>> ACF 50 very good at stopping corrosion. [...] Apply the ACF 50
>> yourself with compressed air and spray nozzle. It inproves anything
>> it comes in contact with.
>
>Plus it turns peeled apples green, and is a great steak marinade.
>
>- FChE

Nah, Corrosion X tastes much better than ACF 50 IMHO.

TC

[Clay]

darthpup wrote:
> ACF 50 very good at stopping corrosion. In spots where you can clean
> it up apply some linseed oil or stand oil. I have used ACF for the
> last thirty years on my Cherokee. Also good for old radios and
> electrical connections. Rejuventates the plastic also in the interior.
> Apply the ACF 50 yourself with compressed air and spray nozzle. It
> inproves anything it comes in contact with.

Not sure what "stand oil" is but I do know that linseed oil is
flammable.
Is ACF 50 or Corrosion X flammable?

[Clay]

darthpup wrote:
> Gasoline is flammable. Engine oil is flammable. Your point?
Just a question.
I know that linseed oil is sometimes used to coat the inside of tubing
on ragwings.
Does linseed oil affect the insulation on wiring?
These may seem like trivial questions to ask but it is the small
details which can bite you at the most oppertune times.

[Roger]

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 08:22:48 -0400, Don Byrer >
wrote:

>On Sat, 17 Jun 2006 01:27:53 -0400, Roger
> wrote:
>
>>On 16 Jun 2006 04:02:32 -0700, "Denny" > wrote:
>>
>>>This is not rocket science... Bubba the mechanic can do this one... Get
>>>some ACF-50 and a sprayer with a long nozzle, put on your common sense
>>>hat and you and Bubba go for it...
>>
>>LPS-2 also works. Just don't have this work done in the winter. Once
>>the temperature comes up, it'll drip for two weeks in the hot sun.
>>
>
>Don't you mean LPS 3? LPS 2 is a lube, LPS 3 is much thicker and is
>a corrosion preventative

Nope, LPS 2. You need the penetrating ability of the solvents in
LPS-2.

LPS-3 is much thicker and I doubt its ability to penetrate into some
areas.

>
>(and while were on the subject...LPS1 is a non-oily lube)
>
I think of LPS-1 as being WD-40 with a different smell. IE a
penetrating oil that has a lot of solvents that will evaporate.


Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
>--Don
>Don Byrer
>Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy
>Amateur Radio KJ5KB
>kj5kb-at-hotmail.com
>
>"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..."
>"Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"

[Juan Jimenez]

You don't spray gasoline oil or engine oil all inside your airplane. :)

"darthpup" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Gasoline is flammable. Engine oil is flammable. Your point?
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com