Cherokee fuel sending units

[Mike Spera]

I have finally had enough of the bad sending unit on the right tank.
Since I want the beast in and out quickly, I figured I would get an
exchange unit from Airparts of Lock Haven. $500 core charge? Yikes! I
guess they REALLY want that core back!!! I believe the "stock" sending
units/gauges on a 74 Cherokee were Stewart Warner. I believe they made a
replacement Rochester combo and they are not interchangeable. Is this
correct?

I have had these pups (fuel tanks) out in 1999 to change the sending
unit gaskets, replace the main fuel lines, and replace the overflow
hoses. I replaced the tank screws with the proper structural stainless
screws. Can I reuse them? I do not recall anything saying they were
"one-time".

Thanks,
Mike

[[email protected]]

On 23-Jun-2006, Mike Spera > wrote:

> I have had these pups (fuel tanks) out in 1999 to change the sending
> unit gaskets, replace the main fuel lines, and replace the overflow
> hoses. I replaced the tank screws with the proper structural stainless
> screws. Can I reuse them? I do not recall anything saying they were
> "one-time".



I have removed stainless steel tank screws on a Cherokee 140. They had been
in place for about 10 years. On probably half, I bunged up the heads to a
point that I did not want to reuse them. In the scheme of things, cost of
new screws is a pittance. Save yourself some aggravation and buy a new set.

-Elliott Drucker

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 23 Jun 2006 23:53:50 GMT, Mike Spera >
wrote:

>I have finally had enough of the bad sending unit on the right tank.
>Since I want the beast in and out quickly, I figured I would get an
>exchange unit from Airparts of Lock Haven. $500 core charge? Yikes! I
>guess they REALLY want that core back!!! I believe the "stock" sending
>units/gauges on a 74 Cherokee were Stewart Warner. I believe they made a
>replacement Rochester combo and they are not interchangeable. Is this
>correct?

Pretty much so. In the past it was always a lot easier to get any
Piper sending unit from Airparts.

As you mentioned, a lot of the old/new units were not interchangeable,
without changing out the gage also. However, Airparts has been
matching OEM Piper gages to the various replacements senders for a
looong time.

We typically sent all our engine indicating gages to Airparts at
overhaul so they could match them up to whatever replacement senders
were available at the time and send them back calibrated and
ready-to-install.

>I have had these pups (fuel tanks) out in 1999 to change the sending
>unit gaskets, replace the main fuel lines, and replace the overflow
>hoses. I replaced the tank screws with the proper structural stainless
>screws. Can I reuse them? I do not recall anything saying they were
>"one-time".

If you don't screw them up taking them out (no pun intended), put them
right back in again. Be a good idea to have some spares though, just
in case...

TC

[David Lesher]

writes:




>I have removed stainless steel tank screws on a Cherokee 140. They had been
>in place for about 10 years. On probably half, I bunged up the heads to a
>point that I did not want to reuse them. In the scheme of things, cost of
>new screws is a pittance. Save yourself some aggravation and buy a new set.

/Insert Rant: "If only Torx..."

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Mike Spera]

> I have removed stainless steel tank screws on a Cherokee 140. They had been
> in place for about 10 years. On probably half, I bunged up the heads to a
> point that I did not want to reuse them. In the scheme of things, cost of
> new screws is a pittance. Save yourself some aggravation and buy a new set.
>

When I took them out the first time, I fouled up NONE. Must have been
good luck. Maybe it has something to do with years of experience in body
work fixing rusted Midwestern cars. You learn exactly how much force you
need for a given fastener (or you spend a lot of time fixing broken
bolts and screws).

I used a clutchless Black&Decker commercial cordless screwgun with a new
bit. I actually had a couple of booster steps that I stood on so I could
put my entire weight on the drill. I put the bit in place, leaned on it,
and hit the trigger. Every one snapped loose without stripping or
breaking. I saved them all. So, when I R&R the right tank, I have plenty
of extras.

Thanks to all,
Mike

[David Lesher]

Mike Spera > writes:


>When I took them out the first time, I fouled up NONE. Must have been
>good luck. Maybe it has something to do with years of experience in body
>work fixing rusted Midwestern cars. You learn exactly how much force you
>need for a given fastener (or you spend a lot of time fixing broken
>bolts and screws).

You and I share that experience... It's why I hate Phillips
screws, and heart Torx...and Kroil...
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[nrp]

wrote:
> wise old mechanic taught me that putting a little valve grinding

Remove all traces of paint and grease from the phillips drive screw
heads before trying to remove them. Use a new quality driver.
Degrease the surfaces where the driver must grip. Paint makes a good
lubricant that can cause the drivers to cam out unfortunately.

On reassembly (hopefully with new screws), use anti seize on the
threads, but dont get any near the screw heads.

>From an old motorcycle mechanic............