Removing oil galley plug

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

[nrp]

> Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Old motorcycle tricks are to degrease & dry the plug and wrench with
gasoline & air. Use a brand new black oxide (not cad or zinc plated)
hex key, and heat the block locally with a heat gun to ~200 degrees.
You might also sand blast the hex key to get even better grip. I don't
think an impact driver would help. You definitely want to avoid
dinging the hex - and that would be easiest with a manual wrench. Does
the plug stick out enough that you can also grab the outside diameter
with a visegrip to get still more torque?

You are right in your thoughts in that you have only one chance before
these things get really ugly. Good luck.

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

The plug only sticks out 1 thread. It's been painted over, and from
scraping the paint off, it looks like pipe dope in the thread. I haven't
tried valve grinding compound yet, maybe a combination of heat and compound
with a new oxide hex key with a ratchet will work.
Thanks
Jim

"nrp" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
>
> > Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Old motorcycle tricks are to degrease & dry the plug and wrench with
> gasoline & air. Use a brand new black oxide (not cad or zinc plated)
> hex key, and heat the block locally with a heat gun to ~200 degrees.
> You might also sand blast the hex key to get even better grip. I don't
> think an impact driver would help. You definitely want to avoid
> dinging the hex - and that would be easiest with a manual wrench. Does
> the plug stick out enough that you can also grab the outside diameter
> with a visegrip to get still more torque?
>
> You are right in your thoughts in that you have only one chance before
> these things get really ugly. Good luck.
>

[Jon Kraus]

I you had to drill it out how do you keep the shavings out of the
engine? Just curious....

Jon Kraus

Jim Burns wrote:
> For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
> their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
> I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
> trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
> them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
> be used without causing any damage to the case.
>
> Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Jim
>
>

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

Exactly my biggest fear and before I damage it or go that far I'll turn it
over to my A&Ps. Just speculating that maybe one wouldn't drill completely
through the plug, just enough to start a large EZ-out to back out the plug.
I guess you could insert a magnet into the galley to catch any of the plug's
shavings.
Jim

[David Lesher]

"Jim Burns" > writes:

>The plug only sticks out 1 thread. It's been painted over, and from
>scraping the paint off, it looks like pipe dope in the thread. I haven't
>tried valve grinding compound yet, maybe a combination of heat and compound
>with a new oxide hex key with a ratchet will work.

Motorcycle people have many of the those plugs to deal with & swear
by the hand-impact drivers; you preload them with a twist and hit
it with a hammer. The hammer keeps the key deeply seated.

Buy a 1/2" square drive key from Snap-on or such.

I concur with the preheating but also suggest getting some Kroil
Oil from Kano labs. It makes Liquid Wrench look like mouse milk.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[nrp]

If you end up having to drill it out (ugh!), pressurize the galley from
somewhere else with shop air so that any chips get blown back to you.

I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
end up distorting the threads in the case.

Penetratiung lubes etc won't penetrate the threads if there is pipe
dope in them. Instead the lube will probably get on the wrenching
surfaces & make a stripout that much more likely.

My read at least...... Still - good luck!
nrp

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

I've considered the hand impact driver as I actually own one, but I'm
tentative due to the aluminum case. Any positive/negative experiences?
Jim

"David Lesher" > wrote in message
...
> "Jim Burns" > writes:
>
> >The plug only sticks out 1 thread. It's been painted over, and from
> >scraping the paint off, it looks like pipe dope in the thread. I haven't
> >tried valve grinding compound yet, maybe a combination of heat and
compound
> >with a new oxide hex key with a ratchet will work.
>
> Motorcycle people have many of the those plugs to deal with & swear
> by the hand-impact drivers; you preload them with a twist and hit
> it with a hammer. The hammer keeps the key deeply seated.
>
> Buy a 1/2" square drive key from Snap-on or such.
>
> I concur with the preheating but also suggest getting some Kroil
> Oil from Kano labs. It makes Liquid Wrench look like mouse milk.
> --
> A host is a host from coast to
> & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
> Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
> is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

Thanks. If nothing else, we'll create an archive of what doesn't work! :)
Jim

"nrp" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> If you end up having to drill it out (ugh!), pressurize the galley from
> somewhere else with shop air so that any chips get blown back to you.
>
> I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
> end up distorting the threads in the case.
>
> Penetratiung lubes etc won't penetrate the threads if there is pipe
> dope in them. Instead the lube will probably get on the wrenching
> surfaces & make a stripout that much more likely.
>
> My read at least...... Still - good luck!
> nrp
>

[nrp]

On Nov 6, 12:33 pm, "Jim Burns" >
wrote:
> I've considered the hand impact driver as I actually own one, but I'm
> tentative due to the aluminum case. Any positive/negative experiences?

The impact driver isn't going to hurt the case but the lack of control
from a swinging hammer just might cause you to strip out the hex in a
situation where a wrench handle in knowledgeable hands, wouldn't.

What is the hex key size? 3/16 inch?

NRP

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

....or damage the ring gear which is just ahead of the plug ;( I didn't have
it with me last night, so I really don't know if I can get "straight on" the
plug to use the impact driver. Yep, it's 3/16".
Jim

"nrp" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
>
> On Nov 6, 12:33 pm, "Jim Burns" >
> wrote:
> > I've considered the hand impact driver as I actually own one, but I'm
> > tentative due to the aluminum case. Any positive/negative experiences?
>
> The impact driver isn't going to hurt the case but the lack of control
> from a swinging hammer just might cause you to strip out the hex in a
> situation where a wrench handle in knowledgeable hands, wouldn't.
>
> What is the hex key size? 3/16 inch?
>
> NRP
>

[nrp]

If the 3/16 hex key looks or feels like it is slipping, you might try a
carefully filed-down 5 millimeter hex key driven in. Sandblast the
filed surfaces for a better grip.

You should be able to get that plug out. Any overhauler has to, to
clean the oil galleries.

I'm out of ideas now..........!

[[email protected]]

Lycomings have the temp probe in the oil screen or oil filter
adapter, at the back of the engine. I've never seen one in the front of
the case, perhaps since Lycoming specifies max oil temp entering the
engine, not halfway through it. Are you sure you need to remove that
plug?

Dan

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

It's a JPI probe install, secondary to the factory oil temp.
Jim

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> Lycomings have the temp probe in the oil screen or oil filter
> adapter, at the back of the engine. I've never seen one in the front of
> the case, perhaps since Lycoming specifies max oil temp entering the
> engine, not halfway through it. Are you sure you need to remove that
> plug?
>
> Dan
>

[Robert M. Gary]

Jim Burns wrote:
> For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
> their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
> I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
> trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
> them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
> be used without causing any damage to the case.
>
> Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

I have one in my IO-360. It was a real &*($% to get out!!!! We finally
got it out with an "EZOut". Kind of like a nasty drill bit that grabs
it. It did not come out easily. As I recall though the plug has some
depth to it so you won't drill though it too quickly.
I initially thought I'd just try somewhere else after seeing how hard
it is. However, Lycoming said that was really where you want it
because...
1) Its very close to the factory probe temp so you don't need to come
up with a new yellow/red line
2) Its a low pressure area so a leak wouldn't be as nasty as some of
the other plugs.

-Robert, M20F

[Robert M. Gary]

BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
Email me if you want his info.

-Robert


Jim Burns wrote:
> For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
> their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
> I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
> trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
> them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
> be used without causing any damage to the case.
>
> Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Jim

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

Hmm... thanks Robert. At least some of the rumors I've heard can be
confirmed.
Honestly, thanks, because instead of fighting with it, I'll leave it until
the end and move forward with the rest of the install.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> Jim Burns wrote:
> > For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
> > their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
> > I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
> > trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
> > them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
> > be used without causing any damage to the case.
> >
> > Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> I have one in my IO-360. It was a real &*($% to get out!!!! We finally
> got it out with an "EZOut". Kind of like a nasty drill bit that grabs
> it. It did not come out easily. As I recall though the plug has some
> depth to it so you won't drill though it too quickly.
> I initially thought I'd just try somewhere else after seeing how hard
> it is. However, Lycoming said that was really where you want it
> because...
> 1) Its very close to the factory probe temp so you don't need to come
> up with a new yellow/red line
> 2) Its a low pressure area so a leak wouldn't be as nasty as some of
> the other plugs.
>
> -Robert, M20F
>

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
> our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
> teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
> Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
> Email me if you want his info.
>
> -Robert
>
>
> Jim Burns wrote:
> > For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
> > their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
> > I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
> > trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
> > them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
> > be used without causing any damage to the case.
> >
> > Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.
> >
> > Jim
>

[Robert M. Gary]

Jim Burns wrote:
> Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
> to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
> then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
> finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
> Jim

Yes, the plug is behind the starter gear for me. However, our A&P used
a 90 degree drill and had another guy put direct pressure on it, while
he ran the drill. I think the reason we failed the first time was that
we didn't put enough pressure on it. Not using enough pressure will
strip it quick.

-Robert

[Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe]

"Jim Burns" > wrote in message
...
> I've considered the hand impact driver as I actually own one, but I'm
> tentative due to the aluminum case. Any positive/negative experiences?
> Jim
>

I've pounded on a lot of aluminium cases on motorcycles... What you DON'T
want to do is twist the handle very far (1/8 turn max). And you would want
to start out moderately and kinda build up with the hammer blows - don't
start with a 5 pound sledge, eh?

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

[Drew Dalgleish]

Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.

>Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
>to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
>then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
>finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
>Jim
>
>"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>> BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
>> our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
>> teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
>> Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
>> Email me if you want his info.
>>
>> -Robert
>>
>>
>> Jim Burns wrote:
>> > For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
>of
>> > their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
>plug?
>> > I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
>> > trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
>drill
>> > them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
>could
>> > be used without causing any damage to the case.
>> >
>> > Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.
>> >
>> > Jim
>>
>
>

[David Lesher]

"nrp" > writes:


>I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
>end up distorting the threads in the case.

Nor am I; an EXZout is for when the head is stripped.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[David Lesher]

(Drew Dalgleish) writes:

>Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
>can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
>the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
>it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.

Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
will not melt the case so that's no worry.)





--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[David Lesher]

>>I'm not a fan of EZ-outs for something that is extra tight, as you may
>>end up distorting the threads in the case.

>Nor am I; an EZout is for when the head is stripped.

Boy was this unclear....

You use an EZout when the head of the screw/bolt is damaged.
Classic -- phillips head screws.

It's of little use if the screw/bolt is really stuck. You can drill
such out but it's a PITA.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article >,
David Lesher > wrote:

> (Drew Dalgleish) writes:
>
> >Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
> >can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
> >the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
> >it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.
>
> Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
> comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
> the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
> will not melt the case so that's no worry.)

You are better off heating the crankcase area with a heat gun and
turning the plug with the Allen wrench. Heating the plug will just
expand the plug into the case, whereas heating the case will expand the
aluminum away from the plug.

[[email protected]]

: > Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
: > comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
: > the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
: > will not melt the case so that's no worry.)

: You are better off heating the crankcase area with a heat gun and
: turning the plug with the Allen wrench. Heating the plug will just
: expand the plug into the case, whereas heating the case will expand the
: aluminum away from the plug.

Or a corollary might be to run the engine long enough to heat the case and
then apply ice or dry ice only to the plug.

-Cory

--

************************************************** ***********************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
************************************************** ***********************

[pbc76049]

I had a real tough plug to pull once. I JB welded the allen wrench into the
socket
and it cane out with little fuss after massaging the case with a heat gun to
250f
measured with my trusty IR temp gage.........

--
Have a great day

Scott
"Orval Fairbairn" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> David Lesher > wrote:
>
>> (Drew Dalgleish) writes:
>>
>> >Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
>> >can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
>> >the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
>> >it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.
>>
>> Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
>> comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
>> the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
>> will not melt the case so that's no worry.)
>
> You are better off heating the crankcase area with a heat gun and
> turning the plug with the Allen wrench. Heating the plug will just
> expand the plug into the case, whereas heating the case will expand the
> aluminum away from the plug.

[David Lesher]

Orval Fairbairn > writes:

>> Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
>> comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
>> the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
>> will not melt the case so that's no worry.)

>You are better off heating the crankcase area with a heat gun and
>turning the plug with the Allen wrench. Heating the plug will just
>expand the plug into the case, whereas heating the case will expand the
>aluminum away from the plug.

You'd think so, but what you are doing with the iron is two things:

a) Trying to overheat and destroy the pipe dope. (Then drip in some
Kroil...)

b) Breaking the bond between the plug and case.

Many a time I've gotten a bolt out by heating it orange with the
Ox-Acy torch. You'd think it would make life worse, but...

[Obviously, you do not want to torch the aluminum case.....]
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[[email protected]]

Orval Fairbairn wrote:
> In article >,
> David Lesher > wrote:
>
> > (Drew Dalgleish) writes:
> >
> > >Kroil probably won't work if it has never seize on the threads but it
> > >can't hurt to try. If it's really stuck it's probably faster to pull
> > >the prop and ring gear than to mess things up trying to work around
> > >it. Flying long enough to get the case fully warmed up may help too.
> >
> > Not NeverSeize but pipedope, but I tend to agree. Another trick that
> > comes to mind is a large American Beauty soldering iron applied to
> > the plug, getting it hot enough to disrupt the pipe dope. (The iron
> > will not melt the case so that's no worry.)
>
> You are better off heating the crankcase area with a heat gun and
> turning the plug with the Allen wrench. Heating the plug will just
> expand the plug into the case, whereas heating the case will expand the
> aluminum away from the plug.

Lycoming typically uses Teflon pipe sealant on those plugs,
and with age and heat the stuff sets and gets really stubborn.
Heating the entire area or just the plug itself will usually
work. The trick is to let the thing sit for a minute after heating; the
plug and case will come to the same temperature, and since aluminum
expands at twice the rate of steel for a given rise in temperature, the
plug will loosen slightly. More effective than the loosening will be
the relaxing of the grip of the teflon dope. I used to rebuild air
compressors that often had steel plugs in aluminum, and we used to
torch just the plug, let it sit, then back it out. The biggest risk
with this was the tearing out of the aluminum threads, especially with
the softer casting aluminums.
That said, there have been times I haven't been able to get
plugs or other fittings out of the engine core when installing a new
one, and rather than risk damaging the core ($$$) we put in a new
fitting and let Lycoming fuss with getting the old one out. This
doesn't help your situation. The casting around those plugs is rather
massive and will soak up an awful lot of heat before the temp will rise
much, and there's a risk of overheating the case in trying to get the
plug warmed up.
I noticed that the JPI probe has a 3/8"-24 thread on it, which
they claim is a match for the 1/8" pipe thread. This isn't true; it may
fit, but it could damage the threads, because 1/8" pipe has a 27 tpi
thread and is tapered. You sure won't want to force it in too far. Most
people massively overtorque pipe fittings, far beyond what's necessary
to keep them there; the spec is quite low and should be used. We used
to get a lot of compressors and control valves back with split pipe
bosses from overtorquing. Somehow the mechanics felt that the air or
coolant was going to push that plug out unless it was supertight.

Dan

[David Lesher]

"pbc76049" > writes:

>I had a real tough plug to pull once. I JB welded the allen wrench into the
>socket
>and it cane out with little fuss after massaging the case with a heat gun to
>250f
>measured with my trusty IR temp gage.........

This was my next suggestion.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[David Lesher]

writes:

>plug will loosen slightly. More effective than the loosening will be
>the relaxing of the grip of the teflon dope. I used to rebuild air
>compressors that often had steel plugs in aluminum, and we used to
>torch just the plug, let it sit, then back it out. The biggest risk
>with this was the tearing out of the aluminum threads, especially with
>the softer casting aluminums.

Here's another approach:

Get a sacrificial Allen key.

Put it in place. Have plier handy & H2O.

Heat the key with a torch. Done right, that will heat the plug
without torch spray hitting the case.

Monitor the case temp but you should see the dope smoking.

Pull the ruined Allen wrench; quench in H2O to avoid starting
a fire. Then, ASAP, use dry ice on the plug. And/Or use the
hand impact tool CAREFULLY.


> That said, there have been times I haven't been able to get
>plugs or other fittings out of the engine core when installing a new
>one, and rather than risk damaging the core ($$$) we put in a new
>fitting and let Lycoming fuss with getting the old one out.

I hate steel plugs in Al bodies. I don't know what should be
used there, but that's not it.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

There's a trick that I read about on the web for removing broken steel studs
from aluminum engine heads where you find a washer with the same interior
diameter as the stud, use a TIG welder to weld the washer to the stud, then
weld a nut to the washer. Use an impact wrench at the lowest setting to
turn the stud out.
Jim

"David Lesher" > wrote in message
...
> "pbc76049" > writes:
>
> >I had a real tough plug to pull once. I JB welded the allen wrench into
the
> >socket
> >and it cane out with little fuss after massaging the case with a heat gun
to
> >250f
> >measured with my trusty IR temp gage.........
>
> This was my next suggestion.
>
> --
> A host is a host from coast to
> & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
> Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
> is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Dave[_1_]]

I have done this...last ditch effort...ran the engine to warm, iced
the allen wrench/plug, (it was a "socket" allen wrench) twisted with a
"T" handle to equalize torque...

It came out...

Heated the plug with a torch, the J-B let go, allen "socket"
salvaged...

Dave


On Tue, 7 Nov 2006 09:12:37 -0600, "pbc76049"
> wrote:

>I had a real tough plug to pull once. I JB welded the allen wrench into the
>socket
>and it cane out with little fuss after massaging the case with a heat gun to
>250f
>measured with my trusty IR temp gage.........

[dlevy[_1_]]

I wouldn't reuse it.

"Dave" > wrote in message
...
>I have done this...last ditch effort...ran the engine to warm, iced
> the allen wrench/plug, (it was a "socket" allen wrench) twisted with a
> "T" handle to equalize torque...
>
> It came out...
>
> Heated the plug with a torch, the J-B let go, allen "socket"
> salvaged...

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

Well, tonight I'll finish cleaning up the install of the wiring harnesses,
EGT, & CHT probes and tackle the oil galley plug.

I've already warned my A&P that he'll be expected to lead the way... and
he's already warned me that it might not be a pleasant path.

I'll report back with news of our adventure.

Thanks for all the great advice, I'm sure that we'll put more than a little
of it to use this evening.

Jim

[zatatime]

On Thu, 9 Nov 2006 11:55:16 -0600, "Jim Burns"
> wrote:

>Well, tonight I'll finish cleaning up the install of the wiring harnesses,
>EGT, & CHT probes and tackle the oil galley plug.
>
>I've already warned my A&P that he'll be expected to lead the way... and
>he's already warned me that it might not be a pleasant path.
>
>I'll report back with news of our adventure.
>
>Thanks for all the great advice, I'm sure that we'll put more than a little
>of it to use this evening.
>
>Jim
>
Good luck Jim.

z

[Jim Burns]

GOT IT!
Well, thanks to all of you for your great advice, here's how we approached
it.

Strip out 3/16" internal hex head as expected.
Fit a 3/16" EZ out into the plug and we found that it bottomed out in the
plug without gripping the sides.
Ground about 1/4" off of the EZ out so it wouldn't bottom out and fit snug.
Heat the dog **** out of the case with a propane torch and an electric heat
gun, being sure to keep the heat moving and not burning the paint.
Tapped the EZout into the plug.
The EZ out I used had a 1/2" hex head, so we used a socket and ratchet to
turn the EZ out. This helped us keep it square and apply pressure against
it, driving it into the plug. As it tightened, we removed the socket,
tapped the EZout in further, applied more heat, turned the EZ out a little
more, more tapping, more heating, more turning slightly, more tapping....
finally we "thought" that something was giving... but we didn't know if it
was the EZout or the plug, OR if the exterior portion of the plug had began
to split! :( nope, I swear I saw the plug turn... ever so slightly... keep
turning...

YEP! bingo! Didn't have to drill... didn't have to pull the prop and the
ring gear... whew! ;)

Thanks again for everybody's advice.

Jim

"zatatime" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 9 Nov 2006 11:55:16 -0600, "Jim Burns"
> > wrote:
>
>>Well, tonight I'll finish cleaning up the install of the wiring harnesses,
>>EGT, & CHT probes and tackle the oil galley plug.
>>
>>I've already warned my A&P that he'll be expected to lead the way... and
>>he's already warned me that it might not be a pleasant path.
>>
>>I'll report back with news of our adventure.
>>
>>Thanks for all the great advice, I'm sure that we'll put more than a
>>little
>>of it to use this evening.
>>
>>Jim
>>
> Good luck Jim.
>
> z

[David Lesher]

"Jim Burns" > writes:

>GOT IT!
>Well, thanks to all of you for your great advice, here's how we approached
>it.


Bravo.

[Too bad no one makes Torx head pipe plugs.]
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[Kyle Boatright]

"Jim Burns" > wrote in message
...
> GOT IT!
> Well, thanks to all of you for your great advice, here's how we approached
> it.
>
> Strip out 3/16" internal hex head as expected.
> Fit a 3/16" EZ out into the plug and we found that it bottomed out in the
> plug without gripping the sides.
> Ground about 1/4" off of the EZ out so it wouldn't bottom out and fit
> snug.
> Heat the dog **** out of the case with a propane torch and an electric
> heat gun, being sure to keep the heat moving and not burning the paint.
> Tapped the EZout into the plug.
> The EZ out I used had a 1/2" hex head, so we used a socket and ratchet to
> turn the EZ out. This helped us keep it square and apply pressure against
> it, driving it into the plug. As it tightened, we removed the socket,
> tapped the EZout in further, applied more heat, turned the EZ out a little
> more, more tapping, more heating, more turning slightly, more tapping....
> finally we "thought" that something was giving... but we didn't know if it
> was the EZout or the plug, OR if the exterior portion of the plug had
> began to split! :( nope, I swear I saw the plug turn... ever so
> slightly... keep turning...
>
> YEP! bingo! Didn't have to drill... didn't have to pull the prop and the
> ring gear... whew! ;)
>
> Thanks again for everybody's advice.
>
> Jim
>

A follow-up question... Looking back, would it have been easier to pull the
prop and ring gear in the first place? One thing that I hate is working in
awkward and/or confined areas. That kind of thing seems to lead to stripped
heads, busted knuckles, etc.

I have a fixed pitch prop and with the cowl off, I can have the spinner,
prop, and ring gear sitting on the hangar floor in 20 minutes or less.

[zatatime]

On Fri, 10 Nov 2006 23:12:56 -0600, "Jim Burns"
> wrote:

>GOT IT!


You must've felt like you won the lottery after it came out for you!

Glad it worked out.
z

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

I had to pull the forward metal baffle (2 screws plus 2 bolts) This gave us
approximately 4 inches of space between the plug and the back of the ring
gear. If we had a fixed pitch prop, I wouldn't have hesitated pulling it
and the ring gear, but with the adjustable prop I would have had to replace
the O ring and there's always a risk of creating an oil leak.

I've got another plug to pull when I get the other engine wired, hopefully
it will come out just as easy. We'll see.
Jim

"Kyle Boatright" > wrote in message
...
> A follow-up question... Looking back, would it have been easier to pull
the
> prop and ring gear in the first place? One thing that I hate is working
in
> awkward and/or confined areas. That kind of thing seems to lead to
stripped
> heads, busted knuckles, etc.
>
> I have a fixed pitch prop and with the cowl off, I can have the spinner,
> prop, and ring gear sitting on the hangar floor in 20 minutes or less.
>
>

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

That's an understatement!
Friday 6:30pm My A&P and I both arrive at the hanger at the same time. I
had plans to fly down to Jay H's Saturday afternoon after work, so to meet
my self imposed deadline, everything had to be completed and buttoned up
before I left the hanger that night.

We had the plug out in under an hour. My A&P looked everything over and
gave me a thumbs up then left for another job.
By 9pm I had everything recowled, tools accounted for, and every nut, bolt,
and screw double and triple checked. Plugged in the engine heaters,
preflighted the airplane, and was home by 10pm.

Some times things just work out. ;)

Jim


"zatatime" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 10 Nov 2006 23:12:56 -0600, "Jim Burns"
> > wrote:
>
> >GOT IT!
>
>
> You must've felt like you won the lottery after it came out for you!
>
> Glad it worked out.
> z

[Jim Burns[_1_]]

In this location, I can see no reason in the world that it has to be an
internal hex plug. I think it could just as easily be an external square
headed plug.
Jim

"David Lesher" > wrote in message
...
> "Jim Burns" > writes:
>
> >GOT IT!
> >Well, thanks to all of you for your great advice, here's how we
approached
> >it.
>
>
> Bravo.
>
> [Too bad no one makes Torx head pipe plugs.]
> --
> A host is a host from coast to
> & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
> Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
> is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

[David Lesher]

"Jim Burns" > writes:

>In this location, I can see no reason in the world that it has to be an
>internal hex plug. I think it could just as easily be an external square
>headed plug.
>Jim

They are no better! I've rounded off those even with a 8-point socket.

I'd love to test JBwelding the key in vs the rubbing compound etc.
approach, just to know which is "better"..

BUT every plug is different. How do you run a fair test?

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433