Steel prep for two part epoxy?

[Michael Horowitz]

I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
no literature on how to prep the metal.

Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
of choice is OK.

Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article >,
Michael Horowitz > wrote:

> I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
> no literature on how to prep the metal.
>
> Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
> MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
> area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
> of choice is OK.
>
> Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
> emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
> require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike

For steel (or any metal, for that matter), you have to remove all
oils/greases. A wipe down with lacquer thinner, MEK, alcohol, etc. will
do this. Look for a clean-looking cloth or paper towel.

You should also remove any welding scale, which consists of oxides of
iron before priming. This process usually involves fine-particulate
(glass beads are best) blasting of welded areas to clean the metal.

As soon as the metal is clean, apply two-part epoxy primers. Wear
appropriate breathing protection, as the stuff is cumulatively toxic and
allergenic.

[Clay]

Wear good quality gloves which are resistant to the chemicals you will
be using.
I would not use alcohol because it contains water. The water in the
alcohol can cause flash rusting.
Acetone is a little kinder to the body than MEK. MEK and Acetone are
both flammable, so be careful.
Orval has given very sound advise. Wear eye protection.

[Maxwell]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
>I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
> no literature on how to prep the metal.
>
> Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
> MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
> area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
> of choice is OK.
>
> Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
> emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
> require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike

I would suggest a stainless steel rotary brush and a high speed grinder, if
you can't bead blast the weld areas. Clean the areas to be brushed thououghy
with MEK or acetone before brushing, and clean the brush often in MEK or
acetone, to avoid spreading any oil or grease.

Change wiping cloths or paper towels often to avoid any build up in your
cloth.

[Michelle P]

Michael Horowitz wrote:
> I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
> no literature on how to prep the metal.
>
> Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
> MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
> area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
> of choice is OK.
>
> Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
> emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
> require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike
Bare metal. Abrasive then wipe with denatured alcohol, Acetone or MEK
depending on if anything is left. They are all in the same family.
Alcohol being the mildest and MEK the strongest.
Nitrile glove are a must for all phases of the prep. Respirator is a
good idea as well. Eye protect is always a good idea.
Michelle

[Ebby]

After reading this I have a question for those who have gone through this
process. I have a freshley welded steel tube fuselage with no surface rust
at all. Is is necessary to sandblast the whole thing then prime or can I
use scuffs and emery with the stainless brush mentioned? Seems like media
blasting with sand or glass is a bit harsh for a new fuselage. What do they
do at maule? All that needs to be removed is the dark mill scale and epoxy,
from what I've heard will stick to almost anything.


"Ebby"
Hatz Classic s/n37
NY



"Michelle P" > wrote in message
ink.net...
> Michael Horowitz wrote:
>> I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
>> no literature on how to prep the metal.
>>
>> Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
>> MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
>> area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
>> of choice is OK.
>>
>> Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
>> emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
>> require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike
> Bare metal. Abrasive then wipe with denatured alcohol, Acetone or MEK
> depending on if anything is left. They are all in the same family. Alcohol
> being the mildest and MEK the strongest.
> Nitrile glove are a must for all phases of the prep. Respirator is a good
> idea as well. Eye protect is always a good idea.
> Michelle

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article >,
"Ebby" > wrote:

> After reading this I have a question for those who have gone through this
> process. I have a freshley welded steel tube fuselage with no surface rust
> at all. Is is necessary to sandblast the whole thing then prime or can I
> use scuffs and emery with the stainless brush mentioned? Seems like media
> blasting with sand or glass is a bit harsh for a new fuselage. What do they
> do at maule? All that needs to be removed is the dark mill scale and epoxy,
> from what I've heard will stick to almost anything.
>

I don't know what they do at Maule, but you need to have metal under the
epoxy -- not oxides of iron. Bead blasting the discolored areas around
the welds is a good way to remove any extraneous oxides that could crack
and attract water.

The most important part of the prep is to remove all traces of oils and
grease (including those from hands) before priming.

An airbrush is a good way to apply primer, as it has a narrow pattern
and will not waste too much expensive paint and primer.

[Michelle P]

Ebby wrote:
> After reading this I have a question for those who have gone through this
> process. I have a freshley welded steel tube fuselage with no surface rust
> at all. Is is necessary to sandblast the whole thing then prime or can I
> use scuffs and emery with the stainless brush mentioned? Seems like media
> blasting with sand or glass is a bit harsh for a new fuselage. What do they
> do at maule? All that needs to be removed is the dark mill scale and epoxy,
> from what I've heard will stick to almost anything.
>
>
> "Ebby"
> Hatz Classic s/n37
> NY
>
>
>
> "Michelle P" > wrote in message
> ink.net...
>> Michael Horowitz wrote:
>>> I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
>>> no literature on how to prep the metal.
>>>
>>> Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
>>> MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
>>> area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
>>> of choice is OK.
>>>
>>> Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
>>> emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
>>> require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike
>> Bare metal. Abrasive then wipe with denatured alcohol, Acetone or MEK
>> depending on if anything is left. They are all in the same family. Alcohol
>> being the mildest and MEK the strongest.
>> Nitrile glove are a must for all phases of the prep. Respirator is a good
>> idea as well. Eye protect is always a good idea.
>> Michelle
>
>
I have a powder coated airframe in my Maule. It is my understanding that
bright shiny metal is achieved before the coating is applied.
Michelle

[Ebby]

In anticipation of your answers I did a major spring clean of the garage
this weekend so I can set up a blasting/paint shop later on this summer. I
was just hoping I could get by without chewing into all that new metal. My
advisor at my EAA chapter tipped me off about using an airbrush. Hearing it
again helps. Thanks for the advice.

Ebby


"Michelle P" > wrote in message
link.net...
> Ebby wrote:
>> After reading this I have a question for those who have gone through this
>> process. I have a freshley welded steel tube fuselage with no surface
>> rust at all. Is is necessary to sandblast the whole thing then prime or
>> can I use scuffs and emery with the stainless brush mentioned? Seems
>> like media blasting with sand or glass is a bit harsh for a new fuselage.
>> What do they do at maule? All that needs to be removed is the dark mill
>> scale and epoxy, from what I've heard will stick to almost anything.
>>
>>
>> "Ebby"
>> Hatz Classic s/n37
>> NY
>>
>>
>>
>> "Michelle P" > wrote in message
>> ink.net...
>>> Michael Horowitz wrote:
>>>> I have yet to decide what epoxy to use on my steel fuselage, so I have
>>>> no literature on how to prep the metal.
>>>>
>>>> Part of my decision making is _where_ to do the work. If I have to use
>>>> MEK or like solvent, I don't want to do the work in a semi-enclosed
>>>> area; if a dry wipe-down or alchol is sufficient, then my work-place
>>>> of choice is OK.
>>>>
>>>> Assuming I"ve brought to fuselage back to bare metal and have used
>>>> emery cloth so there exists a 'tooth' to the metal, does metal prep
>>>> require the use of MEK or acytone prior to primer application? - Mike
>>> Bare metal. Abrasive then wipe with denatured alcohol, Acetone or MEK
>>> depending on if anything is left. They are all in the same family.
>>> Alcohol being the mildest and MEK the strongest.
>>> Nitrile glove are a must for all phases of the prep. Respirator is a
>>> good idea as well. Eye protect is always a good idea.
>>> Michelle
>>
>>
> I have a powder coated airframe in my Maule. It is my understanding that
> bright shiny metal is achieved before the coating is applied.
> Michelle