On Friday, July 10, 2020 at 8:41:40 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
Forgot to add:
7. Inspect both spars, outside of the single and inside of the fork, for any signs of rubbing. If you find any points of contact ensure that they are smooth, sand with find sandpaper (1500 or 2000). Use a paste wax on these surfaces to allow them to slide smoothly if needed.

Lubing and cleaning, while a good thing to do, is not going to make much of a difference. The BIG deal maker/breaker is alignment - get it right and it goes together easy; get it wrong and you can have those pins dripping in lube and nothing is happening except bad words.

Tips on proper alignment:
1. Look at the root fairing how the wing is mating to the fuselage. The gap, although small, must be the same from leading to trailing edge. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap if not sure.
2. The gap MUST be the same on top and bottom.
3. Once assembled mark the position of the spar and mark its position on the rear bulkhead.
4. Note the height of the fuselage and wingtips once assembled - use marks on the wing stands to guide you. This is handy in getting the wing dihedral correct.
5. Use your finger gauge. This is your actual finger to feel for misalignment of the the spar bushings. If you feel a ridge on the top and bottom, a verticle adjustment is necessary (don't worry about the direct, just make an adjustment and see if it improves or makes things worse and correct accordingly). A ridge on the sides means the wing must be moved for and aft. A big deal is which wing to adjust - you may be tweaking the wrong wing! So, if nothing improves try the other wing.
6. A remotely adjustable wing dolly is a big help. I use the IMI electric dolly, but a purely mechanical dolly still gets the job done, just somewhat slower.

This stuff WORKS, I have done hundreds of self-assemblies successfully.

Tom