eccentric wing pin tool

On Friday, July 10, 2020 at 8:41:40 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
Forgot to add:
7. Inspect both spars, outside of the single and inside of the fork, for any signs of rubbing. If you find any points of contact ensure that they are smooth, sand with find sandpaper (1500 or 2000). Use a paste wax on these surfaces to allow them to slide smoothly if needed.

Lubing and cleaning, while a good thing to do, is not going to make much of a difference. The BIG deal maker/breaker is alignment - get it right and it goes together easy; get it wrong and you can have those pins dripping in lube and nothing is happening except bad words.

Tips on proper alignment:
1. Look at the root fairing how the wing is mating to the fuselage. The gap, although small, must be the same from leading to trailing edge. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap if not sure.
2. The gap MUST be the same on top and bottom.
3. Once assembled mark the position of the spar and mark its position on the rear bulkhead.
4. Note the height of the fuselage and wingtips once assembled - use marks on the wing stands to guide you. This is handy in getting the wing dihedral correct.
5. Use your finger gauge. This is your actual finger to feel for misalignment of the the spar bushings. If you feel a ridge on the top and bottom, a verticle adjustment is necessary (don't worry about the direct, just make an adjustment and see if it improves or makes things worse and correct accordingly). A ridge on the sides means the wing must be moved for and aft. A big deal is which wing to adjust - you may be tweaking the wrong wing! So, if nothing improves try the other wing.
6. A remotely adjustable wing dolly is a big help. I use the IMI electric dolly, but a purely mechanical dolly still gets the job done, just somewhat slower.

This stuff WORKS, I have done hundreds of self-assemblies successfully.

Tom

As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.

On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 8:20:27 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.

Your sarcasm is noted. Well, I have FORTY YEARS rigging a variety of gliders. Note that I said "lubing is not a bad thing" - what part of that did you miss? Go back and reread it. And when the lubing doesn't do the trick, follow the tips I gave (that is meant for the rest of you, Tim is obviously to thick headed to learn).

Tom

There can be other causes for rigging difficulties, e.g., the first time
I helped Tom Bjork rig his ASH-30 mi, we were absolutely unable to get
the second main pin inserted.Â* After a long struggle, we removed the
second wing inboard panel and found one of those tiny R-clips which are
used to secure l'Hotelier fittings on the shelf. That tiny thickness was
enough to prevent alignment of the pin bushings.

On 7/13/2020 10:16 PM, 2G wrote:
On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 8:20:27 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.
Your sarcasm is noted. Well, I have FORTY YEARS rigging a variety of gliders. Note that I said "lubing is not a bad thing" - what part of that did you miss? Go back and reread it. And when the lubing doesn't do the trick, follow the tips I gave (that is meant for the rest of you, Tim is obviously to thick headed to learn).

Tom

--
Dan, 5J

A few of us were helping a fellow pilot assemble his brand-new HpH 304 several years ago, and clearances were so tight that it was a real struggle. One British observer said, "Oh just take it out and ground-loop it a few times. It will loosen right up!"

On 7/14/2020 7:45 AM, wrote:
A few of us were helping a fellow pilot assemble his brand-new HpH 304
several years ago, and clearances were so tight that it was a real
struggle. One British observer said, "Oh just take it out and ground-loop
it a few times. It will loosen right up!"

Chortle! And maybe I'm bored this morning, but this bit of across-the-pond
wisdom ties right in with (e.g.) the "bedding in" process recommended by
(some? many? all?) manufacturers of semi-automatic shotguns, who suggest the
first 20 rounds or so should be magnum loads...by way of exercising the
precision sliding bits under maximum-routine, high-stress, conditions in
expectation of achieving the longest/smoothest operating lifetime.

Hey. Motorcar engines, shotguns, sailplanes. What's not to like?!?

I'll be leaving now. My work here is done.

Bob W.

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the "bedding in" process recommended by
(some? many? all?) manufacturers of semi-automatic shotguns, who suggest the
first 20 rounds or so should be magnum loads...by way of exercising the
precision sliding bits under maximum-routine, high-stress, conditions in
expectation of achieving the longest/smoothest operating lifetime.

Using that theory, a new automobile should be "broken in properly" by winding it up to max RPM and driven as fast as possible directly off the showroom floor until it loosens up. Or breaks.

However, I regularly test electronic components this way. If they are going to fail, they are likeliest to do so early in their life. If they succeed in passing a large number of cycles, they will probably last quite a while. We had a batch of relays that failed after a short stress test, but the next batch (probably from another production run) is still going strong a year later.