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#1
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awright! I admit this is a bit premature but it has been too poopy to fly lately and a fellas' mind gets to wandering.
We have been gearing up to camp the North 40 for a while. Last year we even upgraded the tent to a nice stand-up Eureka Headquarters. Shortly after that, I read Jays' tale of woe and saw the pictures after his tent blew down. Now my new tent is of similar size, http://www.eurekatent.com/head.asp , as Jays' old one. My wife thinks that a nice motorhome is roughing it. Wet sleeping bags and the tent self destructing would be the last time we spent on the north 40 which leads (finally) to my question. Do I need a different tent or is proper staking and guying the solution. (and all the sub questions like what stakes and what angles to drive them etc. We are not skilled tenters) Mike Z |
#2
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In article .net,
Mike Z. wrote: Mike, forget about that Headquarters tent. It is a big kite that cannot be anchored properly to withstand potential winds. Instead, look at the Timberline Outfitter 6. http://www.eurekatent.com/timout.asp A big tent with lots or room and can be guyed and staked to withstand the winds. If you do not need that much space, look at the Timberline 4XT and add the Annex for a place to sit in out of the sun or rain. http://www.eurekatent.com/timblinext.asp |
#3
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Bring a hammer for the stakes. If you can get them in without a hammer,
they are unlikely to hold on large tent. You want longer stakes too. hardwood or rebar work well. The tent is probably OK since the winds will not be sustained. Mike MU-2 "Mike Z." wrote in message link.net... awright! I admit this is a bit premature but it has been too poopy to fly lately and a fellas' mind gets to wandering. We have been gearing up to camp the North 40 for a while. Last year we even upgraded the tent to a nice stand-up Eureka Headquarters. Shortly after that, I read Jays' tale of woe and saw the pictures after his tent blew down. Now my new tent is of similar size, http://www.eurekatent.com/head.asp , as Jays' old one. My wife thinks that a nice motorhome is roughing it. Wet sleeping bags and the tent self destructing would be the last time we spent on the north 40 which leads (finally) to my question. Do I need a different tent or is proper staking and guying the solution. (and all the sub questions like what stakes and what angles to drive them etc. We are not skilled tenters) Mike Z |
#4
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In article .net,
Mike Rapoport wrote: Bring a hammer for the stakes. If you can get them in without a hammer, they are unlikely to hold on large tent. You want longer stakes too. hardwood or rebar work well. The tent is probably OK since the winds will not be sustained. The Tuesday afternoon windstorm pulled out my 9" pole barn nail stakes on the downwind side of my tarp as I was in the process of taking it down. Polebarn nails are cheap and come in various lengths and diameters. Get some washers to slid up under the head to keep your guy lines from sliding off. Hardwood my split and or splinter as you attempt to drive it into the hard, rocky Oshkosh North 40. Mike's suggestion of rebar is sound. Cut them to 12 to 18 inches and file or grind the ends smooth. You will encounter rocks as you attempt to drive the stakes into the Oshkosh "soil". I have a set of Fly-Tie aircraft anchors for my plane. They are 18" x 3/8" stainless steel rods. I bent one of them this past AirVenture, going around a rock while I was driving it in with my Estwing 8 pound mallet. You definitely want a hammer with some mass. A ballpeen hammer will also work well if you have a good heavy one. My tent was just three rows east of Jay's. It stayed put. Aluminum vice fiberglas poles and a full rain fly make a difference. The more guys and stakes you use, the less your tent will flex and move in the wind. It's the flexing and moving that breaks and bends poles. |
#5
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![]() "Mike Z." wrote: Do I need a different tent or is proper staking and guying the solution. (and all the sub questions like what stakes and what angles to drive them etc. We are not skilled tenters) Well, few tents are going to stay put if the wind gets much above 50 knots, but you can certainly do things in the staking and guying area. Go with long metal stakes. Drive them in at a 90 degree angle to the pull of the tent or line. Some tents like yours have secondary guy line attachment points up around the tops of the walls. If yours does, use them. Run the guy lines no steeper than a 45 degree angle. Cotton clothesline is strong and easy to cut and work with for guy lines. As far as water is concerned, there are a few steps to take. Never place any item in contact with the walls or roof of the tent if rain is possible. That will start water wicking through the fabric at that point, and the leak won't stop until the tent dries out. When you leave for the day, secure all door and window flaps completely. There's no real need for ventilation if you aren't in the tent. Make sure that your air mattresses are waterproof and set everything that you want to keep dry on the mattress or in the plane when you leave for the day. If you don't have air mattresses, get some. Another alternative is some sort of folding cot. Since you just bought the tent, try it out before Oshkosh. Pick a time when some nasty thunderboomers are expected to blow through, and set the thing up in the back yard. If things don't work out, take corrective steps and try again 'til it survives. You can get military stakes and other equipment at http://www.sportsmansguide.com George Patterson Great discoveries are not announced with "Eureka!". What's usually said is "Hummmmm... That's interesting...." |
#6
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Most things work well if you don't hit a rock....I always hit rocks.
Mike MU-2 "Nomen Nescio" ] wrote in message ... From: "Mike Rapoport" Bring a hammer for the stakes. If you can get them in without a hammer, they are unlikely to hold on large tent. You want longer stakes too. hardwood or rebar work well. The tent is probably OK since the winds will not be sustained. There are also "sand stakes" available that are designed to hold in loose soil. Sort of like portable aircraft tie-downs but made out of thermoset plastic. They basically screw into the ground and are quite good at holding tensile loads. Just be sure to screw them in at the same angle as the tent ropes and they should hold like a rock. |
#7
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My tent was just three rows east of Jay's. It stayed put. Aluminum vice
fiberglas poles and a full rain fly make a difference. I just shielded yours from the wind! :-) I had 3/4 inch (!) and 1 inch (!!) aluminum poles on that tent, a rain fly, and the whole thing was staked down with 10 (!!!) stakes. Didn't matter a bit -- the wind pulled those stakes out of the "soil" (basically gravel under an inch of topsoil), and bent the poles over the backside of my right aileron. Incredibly, the poles bent -- while the aileron did not. That was a perfect example of straight-line winds in the MidWest, which can be as damaging as a tornado. We found the ground cloth -- previously under the tent -- wrapped around a Skyhawk prop several rows down... That old tent had survived four OSH fly-ins and a host of other trips, including some near-tornadoes, without problem. Our new tent, while bigger, has thinner fiberglass poles, which I don't much car for -- but I didn't have much choice at the time. (It was the only tent available at a store within walking distance of the North 40!) Luckily, it doesn't stick straight up like a pole barn, like the old one did -- so it should present a lower profile to the wind. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#8
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There are also "sand stakes" available that are designed to hold in loose
soil. Sort of like portable aircraft tie-downs but made out of thermoset plastic. They basically screw into the ground There is NOTHING you can "screw into" some parts of the North 40. This past year we were parked on top of what amounted to gravel beneath a thin layer of topsoil. As a result, I was completely unable to screw in my metal aircraft tie-downs -- even using a "cheater bar"! It would simply drill down a few inches, and start pulling up gravel and dirt, just like a little excavator. I was just very lucky that those same winds that destroyed my tent didn't flip my plane. (We actually got a couple of them in, eventually, by carrying buckets of water over to the plane, and pouring them into the parched ground. This softened the soil enough for the screw-ins to "bite" and stay put, sort of.) Other years it's never been as much of a problem, so I think we were just in a bad spot, compounded by a summer-long drought. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#9
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In article FLJEb.604866$Fm2.547625@attbi_s04, Jay Honeck
wrote: I had 3/4 inch (!) and 1 inch (!!) aluminum poles on that tent, a rain fly, and the whole thing was staked down with 10 (!!!) stakes. Didn't matter a bit -- the wind pulled those stakes out of the "soil" (basically gravel under an inch of topsoil), and bent the poles over the backside of my right aileron. Incredibly, the poles bent -- while the aileron did not. OOPS!!! I forgot about the aluminum to aluminum transfer on Atlas' wing. |
#10
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![]() "Jay Honeck" wrote in message news:GQJEb.599065$Tr4.1565941@attbi_s03... There are also "sand stakes" available that are designed to hold in loose soil. Sort of like portable aircraft tie-downs but made out of thermoset plastic. They basically screw into the ground There is NOTHING you can "screw into" some parts of the North 40. This past year we were parked on top of what amounted to gravel beneath a thin layer of topsoil. As a result, I was completely unable to screw in my metal aircraft tie-downs -- even using a "cheater bar"! It would simply drill down a few inches, and start pulling up gravel and dirt, just like a little excavator. I was just very lucky that those same winds that destroyed my tent didn't flip my plane. (We actually got a couple of them in, eventually, by carrying buckets of water over to the plane, and pouring them into the parched ground. This softened the soil enough for the screw-ins to "bite" and stay put, sort of.) Other years it's never been as much of a problem, so I think we were just in a bad spot, compounded by a summer-long drought. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" Nothing can beat a 1/2" rebar, about 16" long. Weld a hook on the backside, to keep the ropes from sliding off. I found that the problem with most tents, is that they do not have guy attach points in the right places. If the tent is allowed to start oscilating from the gusts, the end is near. I put extra holes through the rain fly, to attach to the poles in mid span, and at the top, then run them out at a good angle away from the tent. That also makes for a good place to hang towels, ect. So, in wraping up the tent bit, in my opinion, if you add enough extra guys, any tent can be made to stay up. The wet inside bit, is a hard one, but I recomend blow up air mattresses to keep above any floor water. For luggage, a trunk type, made from plastic, available as "tool boxes" at the big home improvement chains is hard to beat. If it is in the water, no big deal. The top can double as a night stand for lanterns, lights, clocks, act. Get a big piece of plastic for under the tent, but make it large enough that you can roll up the edges, upwards, and make sure they are under the edge of the tent. The rolled up edge prevents water from getting on top of the plastic, in between the bottom of the tent and the plastic. (bad news) -- Jim in NC |
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