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#1
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Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder"
section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? I'm building a wooden place that calls for a fabric covering. I've tried to do as much homework on this subject as I can but still can not come up with a weight difference between fabric and a thin coat of fiberglass. I know that the fabric is not structural so why can't I subsitute a lightweight fiberglass for the fabric? Any feedback? Lou |
#2
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On 16 Jun 2006 19:57:02 -0700, "Lou" wrote:
Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder" section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? I'm building a wooden place that calls for a fabric covering. I've tried to do as much homework on this subject as I can but still can not come up with a weight difference between fabric and a thin coat of fiberglass. I know that the fabric is not structural so why can't I subsitute a lightweight fiberglass for the fabric? Any feedback? Lou Lou,The glass that tony referred to is model airplane glass which is very light and thin. I used it as the outside layer on my leading edges and tips, however that was over aircraft grade fiberglas not plywood. Apparently Tony had good luck with it. I think if you did a Sport Aviation search for Tony's articles on building the Emeraude you could get a little more information. |
#3
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I am building an wood amphibian and the entire plane is covered with glass.
I covered my wings with 1.4 oz fiberglass which is as close in weight to fabric as you will get. The thinner glass can be a bear to work with- it is so light that when working over any substantial area, you will squeegee it and four feet down the way it pulls and causes a run. You will have a difficult time covering the plywood with this thin glass UNLESS you also use a peel ply over it,. I have only done my surfaces when horizontal so I don't know how difficult or easy a vertical surface would be. This fabric is so thin and light that after wetting it out, over larger surface areas, while you are working with the squeegee the fabric will tend to get pulled by the squeegee and will get a lot of runs and ripples in it, and the resin to glass mix will tend towards being resin rich. I had good success by first laying the thin glass over the surface (no resin underneath) Then wetting out the glass from on top, resin rich, letting gravity pull the resin through the glass into the underlying wood, as much as working it through by stippling and some light squeegee work, the glass can be resin rich at this stage. Then I put a Dacron peel ply over the light glass/resin and also wetted the Dacron out with additional resin from on top as if it were a ply of the glass. If you don't wet out the Dacron it will "blot" too much of the resin off out of the underlying glass. It was much easier to use the Dacron to help get the light glass to lay down nicely and get an even resin ratio on the glass. The Dacron is stiffer and has more structure when wet and helps control the lay of the glass. As long as the Dacron gets thoroughly wetted out the glass underneath will wet out nice and even, any excess resin can be left on top of the Dacron as it will get pulled off after cure. Then let it cure and have fun pulling the Dacron peel ply off. This method definitely wastes some resin but you will end up with a better finished product that has a nice tooth for the primer. Whatever you do, do a 3' x 3' practice lay-up before committing the system to your project! Good Luck! My project can be seen at http://dougnlinap.home.mindspring.com/home.html "Lou" wrote in message ups.com... Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder" section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? I'm building a wooden place that calls for a fabric covering. I've tried to do as much homework on this subject as I can but still can not come up with a weight difference between fabric and a thin coat of fiberglass. I know that the fabric is not structural so why can't I subsitute a lightweight fiberglass for the fabric? Any feedback? Lou |
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Lou wrote:
Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder" section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? I'm building a wooden place that calls for a fabric covering. I've tried to do as much homework on this subject as I can but still can not come up with a weight difference between fabric and a thin coat of fiberglass. I know that the fabric is not structural so why can't I subsitute a lightweight fiberglass for the fabric? Any feedback? Lou The fiberglass you're refferring to goes by the name of RAZORBACK. Various military planes used it like the PT-19B |
#5
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Lou wrote:
Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder" section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of *the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? Doug Palmer said all you kneed to know. The most important is the peel ply, it also save finishing time. By -- Pub: http://www.slowfood.fr/france Philippe Vessaire Ò¿Ó¬ |
#6
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Doug, thanks. You said that the 1.4oz is close to fabric in weight. Is
that finihed weight with the epoxy against finished weight of fabric all doped up? Lou |
#7
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I was unable to find a difference in weight between a 2' x 2' sample of
each, this was using a postal scale accurate to .1 OZ. That said after finishing, painting each system there might be some difference, but I would think that it would be very small. Good Luck "Lou" wrote in message ups.com... Doug, thanks. You said that the 1.4oz is close to fabric in weight. Is that finihed weight with the epoxy against finished weight of fabric all doped up? Lou |
#8
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Lou wrote:
Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder" section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? I'm building a wooden place that calls for a fabric covering. I've tried to do as much homework on this subject as I can but still can not come up with a weight difference between fabric and a thin coat of fiberglass. I know that the fabric is not structural so why can't I subsitute a lightweight fiberglass for the fabric? Any feedback? Lou I assume you're applying it over plywood. In that case just get a book on building wooden canoes and follow the glassing process used for them. They usually use a layer or two of light weight cloth and West system resin. You can also go to the Wittman Tailwind list on Yahoo and search the archives for posts on it. I believe most Tailwind builders glass their ply wings instead of fabric. John |
#9
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"J.Kahn" wrote in message
... Lou wrote: Ok, I just finished reading Tony Bingelis's "sportplane builder" section on covering a wooden plane with fiberglass instead of the intended fabric. Has anyone in this group ever done this or some who knows someone who has done this? I'm building a wooden place that calls for a fabric covering. I've tried to do as much homework on this subject as I can but still can not come up with a weight difference between fabric and a thin coat of fiberglass. I know that the fabric is not structural so why can't I subsitute a lightweight fiberglass for the fabric? Any feedback? Lou I assume you're applying it over plywood. In that case just get a book on building wooden canoes and follow the glassing process used for them. They usually use a layer or two of light weight cloth and West system resin. SNIP John One of my former chapter (EAA 315) members built a Pulsar and did not like the fit of the plywood wing skins after flying it for a while. In particular, he complained about the plywood skins sagging in humid weather. He routed out the plywood 'tween the ribs/spars/... He then fabricated sheets of fiberglass/epoxy skins on a large sheet of plate glass (dunno the thicknesses, etc.) and applied them over the surface of the wing in lieu of the routed out plywood wing skins. His approach appeared to resolve the humidity-induced sagging problem he had experienced with the plain plywood and also had a sleeker finish. Of course, he had to engineer the new "skin" system,. test fly it (after having flown the plywood skinned version), etc. IIRC, he was quite happy with the outcome. I don't know if the builder is still active as I moved from the area, but I would be happy to check to see if he was available, had lessons learned, etc., available. Michael Pilla Michael Pilla |
#10
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What you described is what my plans call for. Wooden ribs with plywood
over but routed inbetween. Then on top of the plywood I'm to install the fabric. This is just one of the areas that I want to replace the fabric with fiberglass. It is obcviously not structural. So replacing with fiberglass should give me a smoother, harder finish. Also, I would like to know if this finish will give me a better gph for trips not to mention maybe, just maybe a few more knots. Yes I would love to talk to your friend. Lou |
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