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#11
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And don't worry if you leave small air bubbles. they will go away by
themselves over time. Tony V. Pin prick the air bubbles. |
#12
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#13
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On Apr 5, 8:40*pm, Eric Greenwell wrote:
wrote: On Apr 5, 10:55 am, Scott wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old painted contest id from under the wing? I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. *Anybody have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best? Thanks! Removal- try acetone first. If that doesn't work, sand off with 600 wet. Plain old Rustoleum works just fine for numbers- or get your sign store to make numbers instead of template. In the olden days, we needed contest numbers on the bottom of the wing so the visual gate system would work. What is the reason for requiring them now that we don't use a visual gate? -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me) It helps at time to know who you are thermalling/cruising under and be able call them etc. Darryl |
#14
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Darryl Ramm wrote:
On Apr 5, 8:40 pm, Eric wrote: In the olden days, we needed contest numbers on the bottom of the wing so the visual gate system would work. What is the reason for requiring them now that we don't use a visual gate? -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me) It helps at time to know who you are thermalling/cruising under and be able call them etc. Yes, it does, and it would be useful for the guy on top to be able to call the pilot below him, but he can't see any number. If knowing the call sign is important, there should be a requirement for a number on top. Failing that, I suspect it's just habit and inertia that leaves the lower wing contest number in the rules. -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me) - "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl - "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation Mar/2004" Much of what you need to know tinyurl.com/yfs7tnz |
#15
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On Apr 5, 9:15*pm, Eric Greenwell wrote:
If knowing the call sign is important, there should be a requirement for a number on top. Failing that, I suspect it's just habit and inertia that leaves the lower wing contest number in the rules. The primary original reason for contest numbers was visual ID on starts and finishes. The only contest-relevant reason for them today is assessing penalties on infractions within line of sight of the CD (e.g. finish penalties). IDs are helpful in making traffic calls irrespective of their initial logic for being. Most of the time these calls are for gliders turning inside you (belly to you) or abeam of you. An ID on top of the wing might help on occasion, but in most instances where it would be of help the higher glider either doesn't have a clear line of sight (can't look through your own fuselage), or is in a better position to clear the conflict on its own. 9B |
#16
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Why not put the ID on the bottom of the fuse?
Mark |
#17
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Scott Alexander wrote: Anybody
have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best? Thanks! Use "Poster Paint" and wash it off after the contest. :-) ...lew... |
#18
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![]() The primary original reason for contest numbers was visual ID on starts and finishes. The only contest-relevant reason for them today is assessing penalties on infractions within line of sight of the CD (e.g. finish penalties). I was just remembering several pilots who decided to do a "top gun" low and fast flyby's during contests, thinking it was funny...well with the ID number on the bottom, they can't really get away with that infraction can they? LOL |
#19
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On Apr 5, 10:55*am, Scott Alexander
wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old painted contest id from under the wing? I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. *Anybody have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best? Thanks! 1. Try solvents ... lacquer thinner then acetone ... 2. sand off with a 1400 grit wet dry (wet) ... . then polish ... and wax if you are not going to paint new letters ... I always paint letters using the thinnest coat of lacquer possible. wait until dry ... then sand the edges of the letters until there is no transition ... the edge may get a little wavy, but this is really no problem for readability. BTW, if your letters trip the BL on a four foot wide section of the wing bottom ... a few inches from the LE ... you are incurring a reasonable performance loss on that section of wing ... i.e. the bottom of the wing has attached flow almost to the trailing edge on newer ships ... and ~ 80% on older designs. So, will your new x-mil vinyl letters actually do this ... in theory yes - in actuality, I don''t know ... but why take the chance ... painting is very easy ... relatively fast ... and much cheaper ... IMHO ... KK |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Finishing products for a polyurethane painted sailplane | John Scott[_2_] | Soaring | 0 | January 27th 09 08:29 PM |
Removing old contest ID? | Bill[_11_] | Soaring | 5 | October 12th 07 05:20 AM |
A Guy spray-painted Airforce 1, WOW*, Presidential Graffiti....... all on Tape | [email protected] | Naval Aviation | 8 | April 22nd 06 05:43 PM |
painted airtight window screen as a "surface" | Allan Morrison | Home Built | 3 | February 19th 05 03:40 AM |
Removing Old Contest Numbers | Milan Air | Soaring | 5 | November 25th 03 12:59 AM |