Stick grips

Here is a picture of an early prototype control stick I designed for a
Graham Lee Nieuport replica:

http://www.eaa292.org/noon_patrol/oct_01/pa130017.jpg

The offset in the stick matches a corresponding convexity in many of the
Noon Patrol members. The stick itself cost me at least $2 for materials
and the only swtich on it will be a velcroed push to talk switch. The
cross section is about 1¼" square with the corners on the top 6"
radiused to ½". It's quite comfortable to hold, there's just something
about wood... What I don't like about "molded to fit your hand
perfectly grips" is that they severely limit your hand positions on the
stick. I fly with two fingers most of the time. Sometimes I choke up
on the stick, sometimes I hold the very tip, sometimes I rest my wrist
against my leg and hold the stick from the side, sometimes from straight
behind, some times left hand, sometimes right hand. For that, a simple
stick works best.

For a Lancair, however, you need to spend at least $100 just because
it's a Lancair.

John Nicholson wrote:
Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John

Do I detekt som lamenations in that stick, or did you just hunt fer a crooked tree
branch???Sumpin sexy 'bout the the curvature of that thing, but I can't remember
what it is....or wuz...or used to be---Weighted absolute opinion--Luv-It!!

guynoir wrote:

Here is a picture of an early prototype control stick I designed for a
Graham Lee Nieuport replica:

http://www.eaa292.org/noon_patrol/oct_01/pa130017.jpg

The offset in the stick matches a corresponding convexity in many of the
Noon Patrol members. The stick itself cost me at least $2 for materials
and the only swtich on it will be a velcroed push to talk switch. The
cross section is about 1¼" square with the corners on the top 6"
radiused to ½". It's quite comfortable to hold, there's just something
about wood... What I don't like about "molded to fit your hand
perfectly grips" is that they severely limit your hand positions on the
stick. I fly with two fingers most of the time. Sometimes I choke up
on the stick, sometimes I hold the very tip, sometimes I rest my wrist
against my leg and hold the stick from the side, sometimes from straight
behind, some times left hand, sometimes right hand. For that, a simple
stick works best.

For a Lancair, however, you need to spend at least $100 just because
it's a Lancair.

John Nicholson wrote:
Hi

I am building a Lancair 360 and have reached that point in construction
where I need to take a decision on the best stick grips. I have two
questions on which I'd welcome your views?

(1) What is the best configuration? That is, what should and shouldn't be
on the grip?

(2) Any thoughts on which is the best commercially available grip that meets
the criteria for (1) above?

Thanks

John