Fiberglass release agent?

i planning on building a few fiberglass pieces from a mold this weekend
but don't have time to order a release agent.
From looking at the internet, most release agents are wax based products.
Can I just use paste wax for the mold?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Dave

wrote:

i planning on building a few fiberglass pieces from a mold this weekend
but don't have time to order a release agent.
From looking at the internet, most release agents are wax based products.
Can I just use paste wax for the mold?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Dave

Almost anything that will seal the mold and keep the resin from
sticking will work. I use epoxy only for lay ups. Epoxy makes
pretty good glue. Something to keep in mind...

The following is way primative...

I've often used sheet rock mud for one-off plugs. This is very porus
stuff and if not sealed, it WILL become and integral part of the part.

The main attraction is that it is very cheap and easy to work.

For a mud plug I melt parafin (candle wax) in a double boiler (actually
a tin can in a pot of boiling water) and paint it onto the plug. It
will not be smooth - brush marks and drag lumps will look terrible.

Next, a hot air gun is used to melt the excess off with a careful rub
down while melted. This is to rub the wax into the surface - and burn
your fingers if you stay at the party too long!

Last, a couple of real good paste wax rubs.
Then a smooth coat of paste wax before starting the lay up.
Don't rub these paste wax coate _off_, tho.

Note that this is a fairly risky proceedure - both for the plug
and for the part. But it can work ok if you are careful and patient.

If your mold is already smooth and not as porus, several good coats
of wax might be ok.

Does that help any?

Richard

Richard Lamb wrote:
wrote:

i planning on building a few fiberglass pieces from a mold this weekend
but don't have time to order a release agent.
From looking at the internet, most release agents are wax based products.
Can I just use paste wax for the mold?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Dave


Almost anything that will seal the mold and keep the resin from
sticking will work. I use epoxy only for lay ups. Epoxy makes
pretty good glue. Something to keep in mind...

The following is way primative...

I've often used sheet rock mud for one-off plugs. This is very porus
stuff and if not sealed, it WILL become and integral part of the part.

The main attraction is that it is very cheap and easy to work.

For a mud plug I melt parafin (candle wax) in a double boiler (actually
a tin can in a pot of boiling water) and paint it onto the plug. It
will not be smooth - brush marks and drag lumps will look terrible.

Next, a hot air gun is used to melt the excess off with a careful rub
down while melted. This is to rub the wax into the surface - and burn
your fingers if you stay at the party too long!

Last, a couple of real good paste wax rubs.
Then a smooth coat of paste wax before starting the lay up.
Don't rub these paste wax coate _off_, tho.

Note that this is a fairly risky proceedure - both for the plug
and for the part. But it can work ok if you are careful and patient.

If your mold is already smooth and not as porus, several good coats
of wax might be ok.

Does that help any?

Richard

Richard, Thanks!!!

I'm using aluminum as a mold for the part I want to make.
It sounds like the wax may work like you suggest.
There's a couple of seams that I plan to tape off and don't really care
if the tape comes with the fiberglass when finished.


Thanks again for the help

Dave

wrote:

Richard Lamb wrote:
wrote:

i planning on building a few fiberglass pieces from a mold this weekend
but don't have time to order a release agent.
From looking at the internet, most release agents are wax based products.
Can I just use paste wax for the mold?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Dave


Almost anything that will seal the mold and keep the resin from
sticking will work. I use epoxy only for lay ups. Epoxy makes
pretty good glue. Something to keep in mind...

The following is way primative...

I've often used sheet rock mud for one-off plugs. This is very porus
stuff and if not sealed, it WILL become and integral part of the part.

The main attraction is that it is very cheap and easy to work.

For a mud plug I melt parafin (candle wax) in a double boiler (actually
a tin can in a pot of boiling water) and paint it onto the plug. It
will not be smooth - brush marks and drag lumps will look terrible.

Next, a hot air gun is used to melt the excess off with a careful rub
down while melted. This is to rub the wax into the surface - and burn
your fingers if you stay at the party too long!

Last, a couple of real good paste wax rubs.
Then a smooth coat of paste wax before starting the lay up.
Don't rub these paste wax coate _off_, tho.

Note that this is a fairly risky proceedure - both for the plug
and for the part. But it can work ok if you are careful and patient.

If your mold is already smooth and not as porus, several good coats
of wax might be ok.

Does that help any?

Richard

Richard, Thanks!!!

I'm using aluminum as a mold for the part I want to make.
It sounds like the wax may work like you suggest.
There's a couple of seams that I plan to tape off and don't really care
if the tape comes with the fiberglass when finished.

Thanks again for the help

Dave

Duct tape, dude, duct tape.

On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 03:37:46 GMT, wrote:



Richard Lamb wrote:
wrote:

i planning on building a few fiberglass pieces from a mold this weekend
but don't have time to order a release agent.
From looking at the internet, most release agents are wax based products.
Can I just use paste wax for the mold?
snip
I'm using aluminum as a mold for the part I want to make.
It sounds like the wax may work like you suggest.
There's a couple of seams that I plan to tape off and don't really care
if the tape comes with the fiberglass when finished.

Be careful with tape and resin. Some resins will dissolve the
adhesive which can affect the strength of the part. This is
particularly true of Vinyl Ester resin. (Dow Derakane)

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com


Thanks again for the help

Dave

On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 02:48:19 GMT, Richard Lamb
wrote:

For a mud plug I melt parafin (candle wax) in a double boiler (actually
a tin can in a pot of boiling water) and paint it onto the plug. It
will not be smooth - brush marks and drag lumps will look terrible.

Next, a hot air gun is used to melt the excess off with a careful rub
down while melted. This is to rub the wax into the surface - and burn
your fingers if you stay at the party too long!

Last, a couple of real good paste wax rubs.
Then a smooth coat of paste wax before starting the lay up.
Don't rub these paste wax coate _off_, tho.

Note that this is a fairly risky proceedure - both for the plug
and for the part. But it can work ok if you are careful and patient.

My experience - I built some wingtip plugs using foam board. Covered
them with drywall mud and after final sanding, sealed them with
urethane varnish. The recommendation was to wax them thoroughly with
paste wax and I bought a tup specific for the purpose from Wicks and
proceeded to wax the plug three times, REALLY putting it on carefully
and then buffing it.

I used fiberglass and epoxy resin and wrapped the plug (it was one
half the wingtip, the top part).

The resin bonded quite nicely to the plug and I ripped the plug to
shreds pulling the fiberglass off it. Ruined the fiberglass too.

The missing ingredient? Some kind of release agent on top of the wax.
I bought some PVA from Wicks and the next effort worked fine, after
rebuilding the plug.

Barring a release agent, which you mentioned you do not have, and the
type of plug, if you can wrap the plug with Saran wrap, or something
very similar, it will not adhere to the resin and you can pull it
right off the plug. But if the Saran wrap doesn't fit to the plug
well (perhaps you have trough's to fill that the saran wrap won't lay
into well, then using the urethane tape will work too.

One trick I heard of was to use an air gun to blast between the plug
and the layup to get it to pop off. I tried that and had some success
with the second layup, but ended up using a thin flat stick to wedge
in and push and prod to get things to release.

Corky Scott

Date: 7/8/2004 10:31 AM Central Daylight Time
Message-id:

On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 02:48:19 GMT, Richard Lamb
wrote:

For a mud plug I melt parafin (candle wax) in a double boiler (actually
a tin can in a pot of boiling water) and paint it onto the plug. It
will not be smooth - brush marks and drag lumps will look terrible.

Next, a hot air gun is used to melt the excess off with a careful rub
down while melted. This is to rub the wax into the surface - and burn
your fingers if you stay at the party too long!

Last, a couple of real good paste wax rubs.
Then a smooth coat of paste wax before starting the lay up.
Don't rub these paste wax coate _off_, tho.

Note that this is a fairly risky proceedure - both for the plug
and for the part. But it can work ok if you are careful and patient.

My experience - I built some wingtip plugs using foam board. Covered
them with drywall mud and after final sanding, sealed them with
urethane varnish. The recommendation was to wax them thoroughly with
paste wax and I bought a tup specific for the purpose from Wicks and
proceeded to wax the plug three times, REALLY putting it on carefully
and then buffing it.

I used fiberglass and epoxy resin and wrapped the plug (it was one
half the wingtip, the top part).

The resin bonded quite nicely to the plug and I ripped the plug to
shreds pulling the fiberglass off it. Ruined the fiberglass too.

The missing ingredient? Some kind of release agent on top of the wax.
I bought some PVA from Wicks and the next effort worked fine, after
rebuilding the plug.

Barring a release agent, which you mentioned you do not have, and the
type of plug, if you can wrap the plug with Saran wrap, or something
very similar, it will not adhere to the resin and you can pull it
right off the plug. But if the Saran wrap doesn't fit to the plug
well (perhaps you have trough's to fill that the saran wrap won't lay
into well, then using the urethane tape will work too.

One trick I heard of was to use an air gun to blast between the plug
and the layup to get it to pop off. I tried that and had some success
with the second layup, but ended up using a thin flat stick to wedge
in and push and prod to get things to release.

Corky Scott

I once needed to make some fiberglass hemispheres. I found a lightbulb the
right size, sprayed some WD-40 on it, layed up some fiberglass and it realeased
nicely. I then used the fiberglass form to make several hemispheres using
WD-40 as a release agent.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

"B2431" wrote in message
...
I once needed to make some fiberglass hemispheres. I found a lightbulb the
right size, sprayed some WD-40 on it, layed up some fiberglass and it
realeased
nicely. I then used the fiberglass form to make several hemispheres using
WD-40 as a release agent.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

I have a friend that uses the cooking spray PAM as a mold release. I've
never tried it but it works for him.

Tony

B2431 wrote:

I once needed to make some fiberglass hemispheres. I found a lightbulb the
right size, sprayed some WD-40 on it, layed up some fiberglass and it realeased
nicely. I then used the fiberglass form to make several hemispheres using
WD-40 as a release agent.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

Shapes are where you find them.

The 'scoop' carb cover on my new cowling is from a 3 liter Dr. Pepper
bottle.

Richard

wrote:


My experience - I built some wingtip plugs using foam board. Covered
them with drywall mud and after final sanding, sealed them with
urethane varnish. The recommendation was to wax them thoroughly with
paste wax and I bought a tup specific for the purpose from Wicks and
proceeded to wax the plug three times, REALLY putting it on carefully
and then buffing it.

I used fiberglass and epoxy resin and wrapped the plug (it was one
half the wingtip, the top part).

The resin bonded quite nicely to the plug and I ripped the plug to
shreds pulling the fiberglass off it. Ruined the fiberglass too.

The missing ingredient? Some kind of release agent on top of the wax.
I bought some PVA from Wicks and the next effort worked fine, after
rebuilding the plug.

Barring a release agent, which you mentioned you do not have, and the
type of plug, if you can wrap the plug with Saran wrap, or something
very similar, it will not adhere to the resin and you can pull it
right off the plug. But if the Saran wrap doesn't fit to the plug
well (perhaps you have trough's to fill that the saran wrap won't lay
into well, then using the urethane tape will work too.

One trick I heard of was to use an air gun to blast between the plug
and the layup to get it to pop off. I tried that and had some success
with the second layup, but ended up using a thin flat stick to wedge
in and push and prod to get things to release.

Corky Scott

I've had problems with saran wrap, Corky.

The kitchen stuff is so thin that the simple mechanical bond will
stick it to the layup tight enough that the saran wrap stretches
and breaks before coming off.

Heavier stuff, something strong enough that it won't tear has worked
well for me. 10 mill or so?

Small pieces of kitchen wrap used to seal off air bubbles, and around
edges that want to stand up, and things like that have worked well.

But for large areas, I'd recommend something stronger.

Richard