WAX ?

I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some say
NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE. Others
say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
confused, can anyone help?

One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate right
down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE, should I
ever break it.
Winter on RAS, is officially open,
JJ Sinclair

This is easy,
There are those that are "pro" and some "con".
I have learned that the "Pro wax" people are for waxing and those opposed are
against the whole thing.
GA

Well JJ, if you such a youngster, you probably have never heard of
George Applebay, and therefore would have no reason to respect his
opinion of silicone's effects upon fibreglass structures. In my opinion
you would be wrong to take this position, but then I'm rather new to the
sport myself and am in no position to recommend anything...

BJ

JJ Sinclair wrote:

I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some say
NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE. Others
say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
confused, can anyone help?

One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate right
down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE, should I
ever break it.
Winter on RAS, is officially open,
JJ Sinclair

Can't we have a PW5/1-26 thread instead?

--
Bert Willing

ASW20 "TW"


"Nolaminar" a écrit dans le message de
...
This is easy,
There are those that are "pro" and some "con".
I have learned that the "Pro wax" people are for waxing and those opposed
are
against the whole thing.
GA

wax and weather protect..
slick wings don't like water on them.. if wet fly faster..
do not use silicone based waxes.. like automotive wax.. there was a
"Melgars7" ?? that did not have silicone..
silicone makes for future fiberglass work .. bonding of old and new.. very
difficult..

We use the WxBlocker and WxSeal process, you can see it on Tim's Wings and
Wheels site..

BT

"JJ Sinclair" wrote in message
...
I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some
say
NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE.
Others
say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
confused, can anyone help?

One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate
right
down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE,
should I
ever break it.
Winter on RAS, is officially open,
JJ Sinclair

I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including the canopy)
with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs and mud collected
at "low altitude", stops annoying glare (a definite safety plus!), and
when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work is already done.

Wax just gets in those pesky holes - "static ports" I've heard them
called by local pundits - but I usually fill them with epoxy anyway.
Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.

Kirk

"Kirk Stant" wrote in message
om...
I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including the canopy)
with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs and mud collected
at "low altitude", stops annoying glare (a definite safety plus!), and
when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work is already done.

Wax just gets in those pesky holes - "static ports" I've heard them
called by local pundits - but I usually fill them with epoxy anyway.
Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.

Kirk

Kirk,

Sounds like you're using stone age technology. Might I suggest my method to
micro-turbulate the entire boundary layer for optimized drag reduction and
improved laminar flow. For this it's necessary to form omnidirectional,
sub-optical craters over the entire surface. The swirls and ridges left
behind in the use of steel wool just doesn't get it. So to remove bugs *and*
get a substantial reduction in L/D, sand blast the entire ship using baking
soda as the abrasive media. This is also strongly recommended prior to
instrument training . . . no need for "Foggles"anymore!

Can we talk about bovine mating habits, as it relates to gliders, now?
--
bumper - ZZ
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
to reply, the last half is right to left


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I would advocate nature's own microturbulator system
and cover the wings with shark skin. Looks cool and
keeps uv and moisture out as well. Not as extravagent
as it sounds as countless sharks per year are thrown
back into the sea minus a dorsal fin for the soup market
and we don't need the fins - except two for the Maughmer
winglet covers of course.

John Galloway


At 18:00 05 October 2003, John Morgan wrote:

'Kirk Stant' wrote in message
. com...
I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including
the canopy)
with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs
and mud collected
at 'low altitude', stops annoying glare (a definite
safety plus!), and
when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work
is already done.

Wax just gets in those pesky holes - 'static ports'
I've heard them
called by local pundits - but I usually fill them
with epoxy anyway.
Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.

Kirk

Kirk,

Sounds like you're using stone age technology. Might
I suggest my method to
micro-turbulate the entire boundary layer for optimized
drag reduction and
improved laminar flow. For this it's necessary to form
omnidirectional,
sub-optical craters over the entire surface. The swirls
and ridges left
behind in the use of steel wool just doesn't get it.
So to remove bugs *and*
get a substantial reduction in L/D, sand blast the
entire ship using baking
soda as the abrasive media. This is also strongly recommended
prior to
instrument training . . . no need for 'Foggles'anymore!

Can we talk about bovine mating habits, as it relates
to gliders, now?
--
bumper - ZZ
'Dare to be different . . . circle in sink.'
to reply, the last half is right to left


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.521 / Virus Database: 319 - Release Date:
9/23/2003

Great stuff that steel wool. It really happened that a club in the back
blocks of Australia decided to brighten up the dulled finish on their L13
Blanik and polished it with steel wool. Needless to say they were peeved a
bit later to find all manner of rust spots and corrosion pits having
successfully destroyed the great finish on the aluminium sheet that the
manuafacturer had achieved.

Hmmm, so its winter over there and there's naught to do but lapse into
humour. How sad, well it just brings tears to my eyes. Of course, on the
real & important side of the world, summer is comming and its only a matter
(non-trivial actually) of getting the last of gliders out of the workshop
and then into some real flying.

Roger Druce



"Kirk Stant" wrote in message
om...
I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including the canopy)
with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs and mud collected
at "low altitude", stops annoying glare (a definite safety plus!), and
when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work is already done.

Wax just gets in those pesky holes - "static ports" I've heard them
called by local pundits - but I usually fill them with epoxy anyway.
Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.

Kirk

please do... because every time it comes up.. I get told the same thing..


"Bob Kuykendall" wrote in message
om...
Earlier, "BTIZ" wrote:

silicone makes for future fiberglass
work .. bonding of old and new.. very
difficult..

Ah, one of soaring's few Urban Legends. Maybe I should try to get
David or Barbara Mikkelson to post a debunking on snopes...

Bob K.