Fueling from plastic gasoline containors

A former student of ours had a fire refuelling an aiplane from a
plastic can. In Alaska. Cold, dry weather raises the risk considerably,
and an airplane recently landed may have more charge on it, too. Living
in Canada we regularly hear stories of fuelling accidents attributable
to static. Not too many years ago a guy got burnt when his coat,
rubbing on the wing, set off fuel fumes. How's that for being bit by
what you don't know?

Dan

I fuel my airplane about 3 times a month with about 40 gallons of
autogas. Plastic jugs are dangerous and a hassle if you need more than
5 or 10 gallons. If you invest in the right rig it is easy and safe to
self fuel. I saw an article (in Kitplanes?) a few years back about
building a little trailer with tank and pump. That would work for
anybody. If you have a pickup truck read on.

I carry my fuel rig in the back of my pickup and take it out when not
needed. A built-in toolbox tank is really nice but will cost you about
$300 just for the tank.

Recently I was visited by a representative of the County's Fire
Department Aviation Unit just after I finished fueling. My setup passed
his inspection and cost less than $500 for everything:

1) To carry fuel on U.S. Highways the container needs to be DOT
approved and labeled/placarded as flammable liquid. Failure to do so
violates Federal Law. I bought a refurbished 55 gallon closed head
steel drum that is United Nations and DOT approved for flammable
liquids. Cost me $25. Available free some places. Self adhering
flammable-liquid placards from Gemplers were 4 for $5.

2) Bought a 15GPM Fill-Rite 12volt transfer pump that is UL-approved to
pump gasoline. Cost me about $270 from Harbour Freight. It is designed
to mount perfectly into the top of a steel drum. I also purchased a 20
foot long anti-static fuel hose to replace the standard 12-foot hose
that comes with the pump for $25 from Northern Tool. Also added a
Northern Tool Goldenrod Waterblock Filter for $25. It gets all the
water out, traps particles larger than 5-10 microns and easily connects
between the pump and the fuel hose using 3/4" pre-threaded bronze or
galvanized pipe nipples from Home Depot for $5.

4) While at Home Depot I also got some gasoline tolerant pipe joint
compound, two 20 foot lengths of #12 stranded copper ground wire (green
insulated), some alligator clips for the ground lines and the pump
power connections to connect to the truck battery, a bronze ground
strap to attach the ground wires to the pump ahead of the filter. This
stuff was about $25. Also from Home Depot a good medium-sized
foam-type fire extinguisher (8A-70B rated) $35.

5) I strap the drum with attached pump permanently to a hand
truck/dolly using 5-foot nylon ratcheting strap ties and also use a
pair of 12-foot strap ties to secure the rig to truck bed tie-down
points. Cost for straps and dolly about $50. Also got a pair of ramps
made from 2x8 x 6-foot long boards that hook to the tailgate allow me
to wheel the drum up and down from the truck bed.

On days I want to fuel the airplane I wheel the empty drum/fuel rig up
into the truck bed and drive to a gas station just outside the airport.
I ground the rig to the gas station pump and my truck chassis and test
the gasoline for alcohol/ethanol using a Petersen $15 tester. I haven't
found any gas with alcohol yet but still always test. I pump between 35
and 45 gallons of regular into the drum depending on what amount I am
sure will completely fill the airplane tanks. I drive to the airplane,
hook-up the gound lines to plane, power lines to truck battery, pull
out my step ladder and top off the airplane as fast as the FBO could do
it. If there is any gas left in the drum after the airplane is full, I
pump it into the pickup fuel tank. It is much easier to move the drum
when it is empty and safer to keep it empty too.

In reality its a bit of a work to self-fuel but I save about $35 to $45
dollars every fill up. Much more important my 7:1 compression ratio
O-470 engine runs better on 80/87 octane. No lead fouled plugs and no
lead sludge in the oil. Oil analysis greatly improved since switching
to mogas. I'm Happy. Rig was paid for after 6 months.

In reality its a bit of a work to self-fuel but I save about $35 to $45
dollars every fill up. Much more important my 7:1 compression ratio
O-470 engine runs better on 80/87 octane. No lead fouled plugs and no
lead sludge in the oil. Oil analysis greatly improved since switching
to mogas. I'm Happy. Rig was paid for after 6 months.


Auto gas cannot be used unless you're flying a home built, right?

"LCT Paintball" wrote in message
news:RuMUd.77580$4q6.7306@attbi_s01...
In reality its a bit of a work to self-fuel but I save about $35 to $45
dollars every fill up. Much more important my 7:1 compression ratio
O-470 engine runs better on 80/87 octane. No lead fouled plugs and no
lead sludge in the oil. Oil analysis greatly improved since switching
to mogas. I'm Happy. Rig was paid for after 6 months.


Auto gas cannot be used unless you're flying a home built, right?



We have several certified aircraft in our neck of the woods with autogas
STC's-- Cubs, 172's, Churkies, Cessna 140's, Cessna 180's and so on.

"LCT Paintball" wrote in message
news:RuMUd.77580$4q6.7306@attbi_s01...
In reality its a bit of a work to self-fuel but I save about $35 to $45
dollars every fill up. Much more important my 7:1 compression ratio
O-470 engine runs better on 80/87 octane. No lead fouled plugs and no
lead sludge in the oil. Oil analysis greatly improved since switching
to mogas. I'm Happy. Rig was paid for after 6 months.


Auto gas cannot be used unless you're flying a home built, right?

Wrong. Some certified aircraft use it from the start, but most will require
a STC, which stands for supplemental type certificate. It basicly says that
someone has tested the operation of the type of plane and engine with the
auto fuel, and made any necessary changes to the engine, fuel system or
whatever. They usually are kinda expenssive in the short run, but will pay
off after a quanity of cheaper fuel has run through it. The fuel must have
no alcohol, though.
--
Jim in NC

They usually are kinda expenssive in the short run, but will pay
off after a quanity of cheaper fuel has run through it. The fuel must have
no alcohol, though.
--

What is kinda expensive?
Why no alcohol?

"LCT Paintball" wrote in message
news:17RUd.77210$tl3.9758@attbi_s02...
They usually are kinda expenssive in the short run, but will pay
off after a quanity of cheaper fuel has run through it. The fuel must
have
no alcohol, though.
--

What is kinda expensive?

STC's could be a hundred, to several hundred, or thousands if new pistons
and stuff for an engine are required. Top of head info only; I've never got
an auto fuel STC.

Why no alcohol?

Most airplane fuel systems and engines contain parts that do not react well
to alcohol. Some hoses and gaskets can swell up to more than double their
size.

The other major thing that needs to be looked at, is engine compression
ratios. If it is too high, the engine will detonate, and hammer or melt
holes in the pistons, and other important parts. Also, some fuel systems are
prone to vapor lock.
--
Jim in NC

The other major thing that needs to be looked at, is engine compression
ratios. If it is too high, the engine will detonate, and hammer or melt
holes in the pistons, and other important parts. Also, some fuel systems
are
prone to vapor lock.
--
Jim in NC


So, would it be safe to assume that an engine modified to use 87 octane auto
fuel would not run well on Aviation fuel?
What would you do if your auto fueled airplane was at an airport without
access to auto fuel?

On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 22:40:34 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote:


"LCT Paintball" wrote in message
news:17RUd.77210$tl3.9758@attbi_s02...
They usually are kinda expenssive in the short run, but will pay
off after a quanity of cheaper fuel has run through it. The fuel must
have
no alcohol, though.
--

What is kinda expensive?

STC's could be a hundred, to several hundred, or thousands if new pistons
and stuff for an engine are required. Top of head info only; I've never got
an auto fuel STC.

Why no alcohol?

Most airplane fuel systems and engines contain parts that do not react well
to alcohol. Some hoses and gaskets can swell up to more than double their
size.

The other major thing that needs to be looked at, is engine compression
ratios. If it is too high, the engine will detonate, and hammer or melt

Just a note, that is not due tot he alcohol though.
Alcohol raises the octane rating with the maximum coming around 10%.
This is strange as Alcohol by itself has a very low octane rating.

holes in the pistons, and other important parts. Also, some fuel systems are
prone to vapor lock.

My IO470N for one. The high compression and heat can be a real bear
in the summer for hot starts. OTOH it's built for the 100 octane
avgas.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

On 27 Feb 2005 12:42:42 -0800, wrote:

A former student of ours had a fire refuelling an aiplane from a
plastic can. In Alaska. Cold, dry weather raises the risk considerably,
and an airplane recently landed may have more charge on it, too. Living
in Canada we regularly hear stories of fuelling accidents attributable
to static. Not too many years ago a guy got burnt when his coat,
rubbing on the wing, set off fuel fumes. How's that for being bit by
what you don't know?

Dan

It's amazing how a charge can build up. Last summer I was at the MMV
flyin. It was hot and dry and I was taking in lot of water so I needed a
visit to the Port-O-John. While I was in there, a Bonanza taxied by and
blew a big prop blast over the row of cans. Instantly, the hair on my arms
and head stood up. Quite a charge!