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![]() Robert Schieck wrote: So fess up, what do you print your 56" rib out on ? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Regular typing paper :-) Select a new LAYER called 'Grid' and draw a grid atop the finished drawing. I used a 2" square and selected THIN pale blue lines, printed the rib 1:1, which took 6 sheets, then glued them together aligned on the blue lines. If you don't have a light-table, attach a small weight to a length of black thread and tape it to the OUTSIDE of a picture window or sliding glass door. Gravity does its thang and the black line of the thread becomes your vertical alignment guide, easily visible through the paper when in contact with the INSIDE of the glass. The regular (ie, black) lines of the drawing are clearly visible and each sheet is fairly easy to align in the horizontal plane. But for maximum precision, you may print TWO copies of the drawing and OVERLAP the sheets, using the blue grid for both vertical and horizontal alignment. Printing was done on a garden variety HP Deskjet 930c. Using an optical comparitor, accuracy is better than .001" over 8". If you wish to verify the trammeling of your paste-up, compare your 2" grid to a steel tape as the paste-up progresses. To transfer that degree of precision to the work-piece, use spray-glue to attach the pasted-up pattern to a sheet of aluminum, use an optical center-punch to prick the centers of your tooling holes and check that with a regular trammel. Crude as the method above may appear, the dimensional accuracy of such a pattern will typically exceed the standard of precision available to the typical home-builder. Although maybe not the first time they try it :-) Parallax plays a role in the accuracy of your paste-up as does paper quality in your printing. But on average, ribs are pretty easy compared to a 4x4 paste-up for a firewall or bulkhead. -R.S.Hoover |
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