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#11
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Chip, since you've seen one with this design, how did they drive them
simultaneously? Todd, can't recall how they drove both vertical screw jacks simultaneously. Obviously there had to be some kind of shaft extending to the opposite-side jack but not sure whether it was driven by the screw in the first jack or what. I suspect you've already checked the Anschau and Entec sites like I have and discovered there's no photo. I recall seeing one somewhere a while ago, though, so maybe someone can point to it. I was intrigued because it seemed like the best of all worlds: like having two hydraulic bottle jacks without the leaks. I can't recall the details but it was a spare and I could have bought it from Entec on the spot saving freight, etc. And knew for sure it would bolt/weld right up to my fuselage track. But the price for the jack assembly was pretty steep ($500?) and I decided to pass. Not sure why more of them aren't done that way. The biggest disadvantage I can see apart from possible cost is that, like the twin-hydraulic-jack approach, the jack towers have to be far enough apart to avoid scraping the sides of the fuselage/cradle (with some room to spare for misalignment coming in). But it looked like it would have worked fine for my ship. Chip Bearden ASW 24 "JB" |
#12
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![]() Todd, can't recall how they drove both vertical screw jacks simultaneously. Obviously there had to be some kind of shaft extending to the opposite-side jack but not sure whether it was driven by the screw in the first jack or what. I suspect you've already checked the Anschau and Entec sites like I have and discovered there's no photo. Chip, since I use this type of jack with the wing assembly dollies, I can give you my view on it the jack arrangement for a ramp. The jacks are modified screw jacks as used with Mercedes Cars. The jacks would be used up side down in the ramp application. The thrust bearings are reversed. The gear that is driven normally by the hand crank shaft is replaced by a short straight shaft. with an adaptor for inserting a hand crank and on the other side of the shaft stub is the connection for the drive shaft to drive the other jack. the drive shaft is protected by a channel. Udo |
#13
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#14
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The main argument for not using a hydraulic jack for the ramp, is that they
leak. Leakage is a problem that seem common with the cheap jacks that Cobra, and probably other trailer manufactures, use. Using hydraulics has several advantages over mechanical jacks; lower friction, compactness, ease of incorporating into a given lift design, and lower maintenance (assuming a good quality jack is used). My 3 year old Cobra trailer has a hydraulic jack. It started leaking after just one season. Disassembly found the oil gray in color, contaminated with metal particulate. Internal machining was crude and course. I drained, flushed and refilled the jack, putting it back in service. The leaking has stopped for now. Being in a "jack servicing mood" I inspected a 30+ year old, US made Craftsman bottle jack my wife bought me as a gift. The oil was clean, honey colored, and the cylinder walls were smooth and shiney. This jack has not leaked so much as a drop of oil. Despite use and abuse, it's original build quality shows. Cobra tailers aren't cheap . . . they, and the other manufactures, should be ashamed of themselves for using such a crappy jack! Using a mechanical jack is one solution, but I think a better one is to use a good quality hydraulic jack to begin with. Until then, it's probably a good idea to drain and refil newer jacks, at least annualy, until the oil shows clear. bumper |
#15
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#16
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As you write: a 30+ year old US made hydraulic...
Had you tryed to find a new one US or European made hydraulic jack what fits in size to a lifting unit? If you find one, please, please send me the adress of the manufacturer. Sorry, but all the hydraulic jacks in this days are made in China ( Also these showing an US or European brand ). As I know , there is no US or European manufacturer left. But hydraulic is the only way to lift a motorglider or a open glass ship with relatively little force. To avoid leaking, please take a eye to the little sticker on the left hand ramp rail: OPEN VALVE SLOOOOOOOWLY. This will hold the sealings and valves in a good shape and avoid leaking. Since last autumn we found a manufacturer what uses a significant better sealing system. So, there should be some of the problem solved. AS |
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