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In article .com,
"flybynightkarmarepair" wrote: The objective is to end up with a hole which after dimpling is #30, i.e. 0.1285. Others have noted that dimpling enlarges the hole. So, MY strategy is what you alluded to earlier - drill slightly undersize. Big enough to admit the cleco, but smaller than you want the hole to end up after dimpling. My procedure for flush riveted skins is to drill #40 and cleco with 3/32", take everything apart, deburr, put it back together, drill (or ream - its a little marginal, but you can ream to #32 from a #40 pilot hole, and it leaves less of a burr - notice I'm NOT deburring a second time) with #32, take it apart, dimple, cleco with 1/8, rivet. I'm an inexperienced builder, so this anal retentive procedure makes up for my lack of skills and confidence. I also have a punch that simultaneously punches and dimples. You can get them from Aircraft Spruce and others, but be aware that the American made punch costs more than a whole ChinCom Roper-Whitney knockoff punch set. And they are not actually that useful - you can't use them for matched hole tooling for instance. I would suggest looking at the hole with a 10X magnifier and look for small cracks. The best dimpled holes are those that are drilled, deburred, then dimpled with a good set of dies and somethhing to hold the dies. The combination punch/dimpler leaves a fair number of stress raisers in the hole and can be susceptible to fatigue. -- Remve "_" from email to reply to me personally. |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Dimpling and riveting pressures | Max Krippler | Home Built | 5 | November 11th 03 08:03 PM |