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nondem wrote:
I've started on my plane!!!! I have a couple of questions that should be easy for you guys to answer... The first one is almost stupid but I'm anal about these things: What grit of sand paper is ideal for sanding/deburring the cuts I've made in 6061-T6? The saw/blade I used really did a good job to the point that it almost doesn't need sanding but like I said - I'm anal about this stuff. The second question is more technical: I'd planned to use 6061-T6 plate in .125" thickness for my gussets. I've found a source for plate in the same sizes but in 5052 w/no "-" number listed. I looked up the numbers and 5052 appears to have very similar strength to 6061. Can someone advise me if using 5052 is advisable and if I need to look for a specific "-" number? The 5052 is only slightly cheaper but much easier to find...I'm interested in doing the job right. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...s/aluminfo.php is a very good explanation. 5052 isn't considered heat treatable, that is mostly why there is a "-". This also makes it a good choice of alloy for welding (it is popular for fuel tanks). The heat from welding usually results in a heat treatable alloy (such as 6061, for example) not being tempered anymore (starts out as -T6 but becomes O after welding, for example). I would use a file to clean up the edges and burrs. I wouldn't use sandpaper because bits of the abrasive material may become embedded in the workpiece and create a corrosion problem later on. For similar reasons, I've been told not to use a pencil for marking aluminum (measurements, notes), although a Sharpie pen is acceptable. Then again, the designer may have taken these issues into account. The other responses address the question of substituting one for the other. Nice webpages ![]() |
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