Gamijectors - problem probably solved

On the Gami's, call Gami and take their advice... I suspect they will
want to go back to the original starting set they sold you...

On the lubed cam, it depends!

The problem the lubed cam solves is the delay in splash lubrication
right after starting when the engine has set for long enough for the
cam to drain dry... That the lubed cam gets oil faster than an
unlubed cam is good (very good) but whether it is worth the money is
your call...

The problem it does not solve is that the cam still rotates dry when
cranking and after initial start until the oil pump can get flow up
to the cam... The best of all worlds would be a lubed cam AND a
preoiler to have the oil pressure up before cranking... bucks &
pounds

Now the cheap solution is to fly the airplane twice a week and use
AVBLEND
those who don't like avblend, or similar, can just hit delete and
save us both aggravation
Outfits like American Flyers use avblend AND run the engines 7 days a
week and don't have major cam or wear problems..

cheers ... denny

Oh yeah, and I will be tearing down my 1600 hour factory new
starboard engine for fresh cylinders next week... We will be
inspecting the bottom end and I am holding my breath on the cam... If
the cam is good we just hang the jugs.. If not I do the bottom and
cough up another $7K...

denny - roll them dice

On Dec 10, 7:09 am, Denny wrote:

The problem the lubed cam solves is the delay in splash lubrication
right after starting when the engine has set for long enough for the
cam to drain dry...

A better way out of this is to religiously preheat in cold weather.
The cam won't ever drain completely dry. Rather the problem is that
it takes quite a while for the replacement lubrication fog to develop
in a cold engine/crankcase.

Think of it this way - many of the the most critical parts of an
engine are lubricated only by the fog. The design of the oil pump and
relief valve system is such that the sump oil has little access to the
heat of an engine if the oil is thick. As a result, the fog can be
very slow to develop. Any high power without having the fog, & the
cam can spall in a few seconds. It will never recover its surfaces
from this.

Pre oilers might help, but there is thermally a long way between a few
oil splatters and a true oil fog. The problem really isn't the
immediacy of oil pressure, it is the needed thinning so that oil is
generously spraying around the crankcase vs being congealed.