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#1
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![]() "GTH" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... .... So, unless you look for ultimate performance, you can do as you want. BTW, where will the exhaust discharge ? the exhaust will discharge down/aft. This may not pose an problem, because I will use 114mm diameter air duct routing the pressurized air from nose-bowl's inlet to the cylinder shroud. So hot and cold air will not be mixed. |
#2
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oilsardine a écrit :
the exhaust will discharge down/aft. This may not pose an problem, because I will use 114mm diameter air duct routing the pressurized air from nose-bowl's inlet to the cylinder shroud. So hot and cold air will not be mixed. So you will discharge cooling air up, and exhaust/engine compartment air down ? Best regards, -- Gilles http://contrails.free.fr |
#3
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![]() "oilsardine" wrote in message ... "GTH" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... ... So, unless you look for ultimate performance, you can do as you want. BTW, where will the exhaust discharge ? the exhaust will discharge down/aft. This may not pose an problem, because I will use 114mm diameter air duct routing the pressurized air from nose-bowl's inlet to the cylinder shroud. So hot and cold air will not be mixed. I would not think that that is a large enough diameter tubes for engine cooling. Someone may have used that size and had it work OK, but I would be surprised. I would think that you would need double that, or one tube for each cylinder. If you had that size intake, and no tubes, but instead an open plenum pressurizing one side of the cylinders, you would have much less drag, and more airflow, than the air slowing down going through the tubes. Also, most "Updraft" cooling engines do not do well on single engine airplanes, because the windshield is relatively close behind the engine, and that makes the whole top of the engine cowl an area of positive pressure. With positive pressure on the outlet, the air will have a very hard time getting out, and you will have a hot engine. At the very minimum, the outlets would need to be on the side of the cowl, ala Thorpe T-18. I think even those have some of the air exiting the bottom, in the area of low pressure. I'm sure someone will correct that if it is wrong. -- Jim in NC |
#4
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![]() "Morgans" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... .... I would not think that that is a large enough diameter tubes for engine cooling. Someone may have used that size and had it work OK, but I would be surprised. I would think that you would need double that, or one tube for each cylinder. sorry, yes, one tube per side. This would be the same what Sonex recommends for the AeroVee If you had that size intake, and no tubes, but instead an open plenum pressurizing one side of the cylinders, you would have much less drag, and more airflow, than the air slowing down going through the tubes. yes, but on the other hand would then have much more air leaks. All those wires tubes going through the baffling... Also, most "Updraft" cooling engines do not do well on single engine airplanes, because the windshield is relatively close behind the engine, and that makes the whole top of the engine cowl an area of positive pressure. Outlet would be about one feet in front of the cowl/windshield intersection. The cowl blends almost straight into the windscreen. There should be negative or zero pressure on the exit side and poitive pressure on the scoop. You may have aloog on this sketch: http://www.ph21.de/guest/updraft-cooling.JPG However question is how close is this to the pressure situation of my bird. |
#5
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In Sports Car Club of America Formula Vee racing (my other expensive
hobby) a few guys have tried updraft cooling on the blueprinted 1200cc motors we use, which put out about 60 bhp, have no cooling fans and are run at full throttle (except for brief braking) at average speeds in the 80-90 mph range; we also run in drafting packs which put a lot of hot air into every motor except the one in front. Nobody has stuck with it; they say that the cooling drag is not reduced measurably (if at all) and the heads run about 20-30 deg F hotter than with downdraft cooling. Your figure shows a low-pressure area on top of the nose. This is substantiated by the placement of the cooling outlets on Peter Garrison's updraft-cooled Melmoth II; they're so far forward and so close to facing forward that everyone mistakes them for inlets. Also note the high-pressure area under the nose in the figure; the only reason this changes to low pressure behind the cowling is the "chin" at the cowl's bottom rear. This is not a natural feature; it has to be induced with aerodynamic trickery at some cost in drag. |
#6
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Outlet would be about one feet in front of the cowl/windshield intersection.
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#7
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![]() wrote my reading of that drawing indicates morgans has a point about higher pressure where the cooling air wants to exit, thus potentially reducing flow. Yep. I can't emphasize enough that the OP needs to abandon his current thinking about cooling exits, in the position he suggests. He WILL end up having to re-do them, at the penalty of much work and re-work, and *that* is not what *I* would want to be doing, with a brand new plane. Ever notice where the inlet for your car's dashboard interior vents are, you know, the ones that will blow a pretty healthy air flow even with the fan off and the windows rolled up? On 99.9% of the cars, it is those little slots in the sheet metal, right in front of the windshield. Lots of high-high pressure, there. NOT where you want an outlet for cooling air. Doing it that way, it could almost have reverse flow, or almost totally stagnant flow. Not good for cooling an already hot running motor. -- Jim in NC |
#8
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oilsardine wrote:
"Morgans" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... ... I would not think that that is a large enough diameter tubes for engine cooling. Someone may have used that size and had it work OK, but I would be surprised. I would think that you would need double that, or one tube for each cylinder. sorry, yes, one tube per side. This would be the same what Sonex recommends for the AeroVee If you had that size intake, and no tubes, but instead an open plenum pressurizing one side of the cylinders, you would have much less drag, and more airflow, than the air slowing down going through the tubes. yes, but on the other hand would then have much more air leaks. All those wires tubes going through the baffling... Won't matter at all if The air in the cowl is below outside ambient pressure. You can suck air through - you can not blow it through. Also, most "Updraft" cooling engines do not do well on single engine airplanes, because the windshield is relatively close behind the engine, and that makes the whole top of the engine cowl an area of positive pressure. Outlet would be about one feet in front of the cowl/windshield intersection. The cowl blends almost straight into the windscreen. There should be negative or zero pressure on the exit side and poitive pressure on the scoop. You may have aloog on this sketch: http://www.ph21.de/guest/updraft-cooling.JPG However question is how close is this to the pressure situation of my bird. Most likely, it the cooling systems like this can be made to work at all, cooling will be sensative to airspeed and angle of attach. NOT a good idea. Look, your sketch shows the local low pressure area at the bottom of the cowl. Do you have a really valid reason for wanting to go backwards? |
#9
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I've found Peter Garrison's web site on Melmoth 2; here's the section
on cooling: http://www.melmoth2.com/texts/Cooling%20flow.htm I was wrong about the outlets facing almost forward; they looked that way in a very poor photo which was all I had to go on, but Garrison has written that people nevertheless keep asking him why his cowling has three inlets and no outlets. It's interesting that even though the 360's as-cast fins are better suited to updraft cooling than those on a VW Garrison had to do a lot of fiddling with baffles and cowl flaps to get the system to work pretty well, and he's still not sure that there's a drag advantage in it. A final bit of weirdness: the system cools better in climb than in cruise mode, probably because the suction at the top front of the nose is stronger at higher angles of attack. As usual from Garrison, there are a lot of technical details and very well explained. I'm glad I found the site; I'm going to study it closely. |
#10
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I forgot to mention that photos of Melmoth 2's cooling system are not
in the "Cooling" section; they're in "Pictures" and "Progress": http://www.melmoth2.com/texts/Pictures.htm http://www.melmoth2.com/texts/Progress.htm A lot of scrolling will be required in "Progress"... |
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