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#1
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BNC installation
On Jun 25, 11:38*am, Darryl Ramm wrote:
Make sure they have gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. I'd also put a sleeve of heat shrink over the connectors to keep everything sealed from humidity/moisture etc. Some of the very high-shrink type that fit over the connectors but shrink to the coax. Darryl - Good idea to use gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. However, I am unsure if I would put the heat shrink over the connectors. While it might keep dust and dirt out, it will also serve to keep any condensation inside and not allow evaporation, in effect accelerating corrosion. Instead, I use a dielectric compound like Dow Corning #4 (http:// www.skygeek.com/dc4.html). It keeps the moisture out, prevents corrosion and doesn't dry up. It is also especially good on trailer light connectors. My $0.02. - John "67" DeRosa PS - If you must use heat shrink, avoid the cheap Radio Shack stuff like the plague. It doesn't shrink enough and becomes very stiff. Find a source for good quality heat shrink and be willing to pay $2-$4 per 3 foot piece. |
#2
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BNC installation
On Jun 26, 10:40*pm, ContestID67 wrote:
On Jun 25, 11:38*am, Darryl Ramm wrote: Make sure they have gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. I'd also put a sleeve of heat shrink over the connectors to keep everything sealed from humidity/moisture etc. Some of the very high-shrink type that fit over the connectors but shrink to the coax. Darryl - Good idea to use gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. However, I am unsure if I would put the heat shrink over the connectors. *While it might keep dust and dirt out, it will also serve to keep any condensation inside and not allow evaporation, in effect accelerating corrosion. Instead, I use a dielectric compound like Dow Corning #4 (http://www.skygeek.com/dc4.html). It keeps the moisture out, prevents corrosion and doesn't dry up. *It is also especially good on trailer light connectors. My $0.02. - John "67" DeRosa PS - If you must use heat shrink, avoid the cheap Radio Shack stuff like the plague. *It doesn't shrink enough and becomes very stiff. *Find a source for good quality heat shrink and be willing to pay $2-$4 per 3 foot piece. To add one more penny's worth: If the connection is a straight section that won't need flexibility, the dielectric compound for the internals of the connector, then the high end heat shrink tubing with the sealer/adhesive coating inside is the cat's meow. |
#3
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BNC installation
My 2 cents says "use connectors with gold plated internals and leave
the BNC connection bare". This opinion gained from experience in making thousands on BNC connections and having to leave them for a few weeks in rain, snow and ice before doing my test. Signals on the order of microvolts were detected most cleanly when the BNC connectors were bare - if we used any grease, tape, shrink wrap, etc. to "protect" them we got a noisy circuit. -John On Jun 27, 11:51 am, Uncle Fuzzy wrote: On Jun 26, 10:40 pm, ContestID67 wrote: On Jun 25, 11:38 am, Darryl Ramm wrote: Make sure they have gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. I'd also put a sleeve of heat shrink over the connectors to keep everything sealed from humidity/moisture etc. Some of the very high-shrink type that fit over the connectors but shrink to the coax. Darryl - Good idea to use gold plated pins for corrosion resistance. However, I am unsure if I would put the heat shrink over the connectors. While it might keep dust and dirt out, it will also serve to keep any condensation inside and not allow evaporation, in effect accelerating corrosion. Instead, I use a dielectric compound like Dow Corning #4 (http://www.skygeek.com/dc4.html). It keeps the moisture out, prevents corrosion and doesn't dry up. It is also especially good on trailer light connectors. My $0.02. - John "67" DeRosa PS - If you must use heat shrink, avoid the cheap Radio Shack stuff like the plague. It doesn't shrink enough and becomes very stiff. Find a source for good quality heat shrink and be willing to pay $2-$4 per 3 foot piece. To add one more penny's worth: If the connection is a straight section that won't need flexibility, the dielectric compound for the internals of the connector, then the high end heat shrink tubing with the sealer/adhesive coating inside is the cat's meow. |
#4
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BNC installation
To add one more penny's worth: *If the connection is a straight
section that won't need flexibility, the dielectric compound for the internals of the connector, then the high end heat shrink tubing with the sealer/adhesive coating inside is the cat's meow.- Hide quoted text - Thanks for the comments about gold plating. It has got me thinking (ouch). Next question: Being a person that likes to frequent hamfests (great stuff for electronics nerds like myself - see http://www.arrl.org/hamfests.html for details), I see lots of RF connectors for sale. It appears that the connector plating material of choice is not gold but silver. Maybe it is the cost savings but it seems counter-productive to use silver as it obviously tarnishes quite quickly (and I assume that is bad). Being a digital (non-RF) Electrical Engineer by training I don't know enough about the qualities of the various plating materials to hazard an educated opinion. Any ideas? |
#5
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BNC installation
ContestID67 wrote:
Next question: Being a person that likes to frequent hamfests (great stuff for electronics nerds like myself - see http://www.arrl.org/hamfests.html for details), I see lots of RF connectors for sale. It appears that the connector plating material of choice is not gold but silver. Maybe it is the cost savings but it seems counter-productive to use silver as it obviously tarnishes quite quickly (and I assume that is bad). Tarnished silver has the remarkable property of remaining conductive, so it doesn't cause problems. The gold flashing is usually used on the center pins only. And to vote with John C, my experience with ungreased, unprotected BNC connectors sitting outside is they work well for decades if they were properly assembled to begin with. I would not be concerned with the connector at all inside a fuselage. -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA * Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly * Updated! "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4 * New Jan '08 - sections on Mode S, TPAS, ADS-B, Flarm, more * "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org |
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