Cheap self-rig system demonstration

On Jul 13, 7:42*pm, Frank Paynter wrote:
Evan Ludeman (T8) took this video of me assembling my Ventus 2bx at
Wurtsboro last week, using my el-cheapo single-rig system. *The video
has not been edited in any way, and assembly that morning was actually
a little slower than usual ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRipsiPgdk

TA

Elegant! That's the simplist solution I've ever seen. Even though it
wouldn't work for my glider (and many others I suspect) I still admire
the simplicity and effectiveness.

On Jul 13, 10:42*pm, Frank Paynter wrote:
Evan Ludeman (T8) took this video of me assembling my Ventus 2bx at
Wurtsboro last week, using my el-cheapo single-rig system. *The video
has not been edited in any way, and assembly that morning was actually
a little slower than usual ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRipsiPgdk

TA

I'll vouch for the fact that this was the second slowest assembly I
saw Frank do all week... the slowest was when he did it with help!

To respond to Andy's comment about wear on the fuselage from wing
spars: stick a little spare mylar seal material as a bearing surface
on the area where the spar tends to rub on the fuselage. Problem
solved.

-Evan Ludeman / T8

"Frank Paynter" wrote in message
...
Evan Ludeman (T8) took this video of me assembling my Ventus 2bx at
Wurtsboro last week, using my el-cheapo single-rig system. The video
has not been edited in any way, and assembly that morning was actually
a little slower than usual ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRipsiPgdk

TA

Very good, Frank.

One suggestion: If you were to insert the left wing first, as per the
Schempp-Hirth flight manual, you could insert the main pin part-ways into
the left spar stub to prevent the first wing being pushed out while the
second wing is inserted. This would eliminate the need for the second wing
stand and eliminate the need to walk back around to the first wingtip and
re-shove it into place. This one change would probably knock another 20% off
your rigging times.

Gary Ittner P7
"Have glider, will race"

Originally Posted by Eric Greenwell[_4_]

On 7/13/2011 7:42 PM, Frank Paynter wrote:
Evan Ludeman (T8) took this video of me assembling my Ventus 2bx at
Wurtsboro last week, using my el-cheapo single-rig system. The video
has not been edited in any way, and assembly that morning was actually
a little slower than usual ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRipsiPgdk

Very nice! But why do you put the gear down before rigging? Wouldn't it
be easier if the fuselage was lowered as much as possible?

Also, with the hydraulic jack, there is the possibility it will leak
down (or someone will accidentally trip/kick the release lever) before a
wing is on it, and let the fuselage tip over.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
email me)
- "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm
http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl

Pretty slick Frank

Further to Eric's point about leaving the wheel up, I use the jack to raise or lower the fuse for final wing alignment on my Nimbus3D. Saves walking out and adjusting the wing stands and the main pin goes in real easy. I also put the left wing in first so the partially inserted pin keeps the wing in place

Cheers
Colin

On Jul 14, 4:16*pm, Ventus_a
wrote:
'Eric Greenwell[_4_ Wrote:









;777009']On 7/13/2011 7:42 PM, Frank Paynter wrote:-
Evan Ludeman (T8) took this video of me assembling my Ventus 2bx at
Wurtsboro last week, using my el-cheapo single-rig system. *The video
has not been edited in any way, and assembly that morning was actually
a little slower than usual ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRipsiPgdk-

Very nice! But why do you put the gear down before rigging? Wouldn't it
be easier if the fuselage was lowered as much as possible?

Also, with the hydraulic jack, there is the possibility it will leak
down (or someone will accidentally trip/kick the release lever) before a

wing is on it, and let the fuselage tip over.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
email me)
- "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm
http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl

Pretty slick Frank

Further to Eric's point about leaving the wheel up, I use the jack to
raise or lower the fuse for final wing alignment on my Nimbus3D. Saves
walking out and adjusting the wing stands and the main pin goes in real
easy. *I also put the left wing in first so the partially inserted pin
keeps the wing in place

Cheers
Colin

--
Ventus_a

To reply to several people at once:

- I started out putting the left wing in first, but found that the
spar kept slipping backwards into the space where the right wing spar
comes through. This meant I had to iterate several times out to the
left wingtip and back to get it fully inserted, and it was apparent
that there was a significant danger of the left wing coming off its
stand during this operation. Putting the right wing on first
completely eliminates this problem at the cost of not being able to
half-pin the right wing before putting the left one one. Believe me,
I tried this both ways many times and am convinced the right wing
first method is much faster and much safer.

I put the gear down because that gives me a good calibration of the
fuselage height off the ground (about 1/2 inch clearance of the wheel
is what I'm after). I agree there is a slight possibility of the
hydraulic jack leaking down, so by all rights I should put the gear
down for height calibration, and then put it right back up again - I'm
just too lazy

The material inside the carpet roll is common 6" or 8" corrugated
drain tubing, available in 12' lengths from Lowes or Home Depot.

regarding gravel surfaces - that's no problem as the wingtips are
held several inches off the ground, and the carpet roll still works
fine. The nice thing about the carpet is even if it doesn't roll
(uneven ground), the wingtip will still slide on it. I've used this
on all sorts of surfaces (dirt, concrete, grass, gravel) and it works
great.

TA

On 7/15/2011 10:43 PM, Frank Paynter wrote:


I put the gear down because that gives me a good calibration of the
fuselage height off the ground (about 1/2 inch clearance of the wheel
is what I'm after). I agree there is a slight possibility of the
hydraulic jack leaking down, so by all rights I should put the gear
down for height calibration, and then put it right back up again - I'm
just too lazy

Perhaps you could just unlock the gear lever and pull the handle back in
the slot a ways - easier than retracting, and it will retract if the
jack bleeds down instead of holding the fuselage up.

I realize the possibility is small, but it's happened to several people,
causing severe canopy damage in at least one case. My personal
experience was catching my pant leg on the lever; fortunately, the gear
was not down, because the jack released immediately.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
email me)