![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Oct 4, 7:44*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
On Oct 3, 6:06*pm, Stephen wrote: On Oct 3, 6:33*pm, Randy wrote: I am planning to place an order for control seals and tape to reseal my glider (304CZ). For those of you who have recently done this to your glider, what can you share to make this an easier job for me to do? Are there any special technics or tools required? Any additional sealing information would be very much appreciated. Randy N304BU I got the material from W&W. Clean off all the old seal residue. Install in 90 degree heated hanger. Put a surface thermometer on the wing to ensure the fiberglass is 90degrees. Now have someone run a heat gun ahead of the second person applying the dbl sided tape heating the fiberglass surface. Do the same for when applying the mylar. It takes good heat for the chemicals in the dbl seal tape to make a good bond. *then apply the transfer tape. * ![]() long time.. * I might have some pics if you want them.. *S9 After 30 years in the repair business, I found the only way to insure the mylar didn't lift was to sand both the inside of the mylar and the corresponding wing (stab, fin) with 220 dry, then wipe both surfaces with acetone just before applying double back sticky. Keep the DBS straight as an arrow and then follow it in order to keep the Mylas straight without any kinks. Sand only the 10mm area where the DBS will go. If you get a kink, make a cut to remove it and press on. I believe a good mylar job is all that in needed (internal seals not necessary). Cheers, JJ JJ, Do you agree with the requirement for heat? WE |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]() JJ, Do you agree with the requirement for heat? WE- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I haven't tried heat, it may work. The proof is in how long it stays down. The stuff isn't cheap and quite a bit of work to replace. I have used a heat gun to help remove the old DBS. Heat it up till you can roll up the goo with your thumb. No problems since I started sanding both surfaces. The mylar on my Genesis is about 9 years old now and none of it has lifted. I even used 2 or 3 layers in places to build up a low spot after replacing the left aileron with an early unit that was a tad thicker. Cheers, JJ |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Knots 2U gap seals | JAMES VOYTEK | Owning | 15 | February 5th 07 05:12 PM |
Gel headset seals | Brian Burger | Piloting | 2 | September 26th 04 12:00 AM |
ZZ Mylar seals | Mike | Soaring | 3 | March 29th 04 03:45 PM |
mylar seals | D.A.L | Soaring | 1 | February 23rd 04 07:15 PM |
New ear seals | Chris | Owning | 7 | December 16th 03 01:02 AM |