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Applying New Seals



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 4th 11, 02:45 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
William Elliott
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Posts: 8
Default Applying New Seals

On Oct 4, 7:44*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
On Oct 3, 6:06*pm, Stephen wrote:









On Oct 3, 6:33*pm, Randy wrote:


I am planning to place an order for control seals and tape to reseal
my glider (304CZ). For those of you who have recently done this to
your glider, what can you share to make this an easier job for me
to do?
Are there any special technics or tools required?
Any additional sealing information would be very much appreciated.


Randy


N304BU


I got the material from W&W. Clean off all the old seal residue.
Install in 90 degree heated hanger. Put a surface thermometer on the
wing to ensure the fiberglass is 90degrees. Now have someone run a
heat gun ahead of the second person applying the dbl sided tape
heating the fiberglass surface. Do the same for when applying the
mylar. It takes good heat for the chemicals in the dbl seal tape to
make a good bond. *then apply the transfer tape. * *Works good last
long time.. * I might have some pics if you want them.. *S9


After 30 years in the repair business, I found the only way to insure
the mylar didn't lift was to sand both the inside of the mylar and the
corresponding wing (stab, fin) with 220 dry, then wipe both surfaces
with acetone just before applying double back sticky. Keep the DBS
straight as an arrow and then follow it in order to keep the Mylas
straight without any kinks. Sand only the 10mm area where the DBS will
go. If you get a kink, make a cut to remove it and press on.
I believe a good mylar job is all that in needed (internal seals not
necessary).
Cheers,
JJ


JJ,

Do you agree with the requirement for heat?

WE
  #2  
Old October 4th 11, 03:30 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
JJ Sinclair[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 359
Default Applying New Seals


JJ,

Do you agree with the requirement for heat?

WE- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I haven't tried heat, it may work. The proof is in how long it stays
down. The stuff isn't cheap and quite a bit of work to replace. I have
used a heat gun to help remove the old DBS. Heat it up till you can
roll up the goo with your thumb. No problems since I started sanding
both surfaces. The mylar on my Genesis is about 9 years old now and
none of it has lifted. I even used 2 or 3 layers in places to build up
a low spot after replacing the left aileron with an early unit that
was a tad thicker.
Cheers,
JJ
 




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