Sailplane Power Supply

Any glider Wiring Diagram should show a fuse located as close as possible to the battery. I put mine right on the battery using Automotive 5A blade style weather proof fuse holders. There is a lot of energy there, and there are a lot of bad stories out there about wiring shorts, and smoke filled cockpits when fuses were not installed right on the batteries.

I recommend using the automotive blade style fuses instead of circuit breakers. I can't imagine a situation where resetting a circuit breaker in a glider panel results in anything other than a second trip. Circuit breakers have a higher voltage drop, and are a lot less reliable than fuses.

I have always run my glider Batteries in parallel on a common 12V bus, and it's never been a problem. I always buy identical batteries at the same time, and retire them at the same time. The other wiring schemes depicted will work just fine.

SF

I believe everyone will agree to use a fuse close to/at each battery to give protection in case a wire is shorted somewhere along it's length, etc.
The OP (in his link) mentions this, but also indicated them being eliminated in his drawings to keep it simple.

As to a pin, ring terminal, fork terminal, soldering a boot at the open end can help with connectivity over time. Just don't wick solder up past the other end of the crimp to preclude making a stress point.

Wiring should also be fine stranded so it's flexible, solid wire can fatigue fail over time due to work hardening of copper with even minor bending.