Solvent for Gap-Seal tape prep

On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 10:43:17 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Most of the above advice concerns Mylar seals, so the real question is what solvent Uli needs to prep the surface for the cloth tape. You can try anything, but in order of aggressiveness (And possible damage to the PU paint) Methyl Ethyl Ketone is very aggressive and evaporates with little residue, acetone is second in both qualities and alcohol is the gentlest. It is also possible that the tape you are using does not have as good an adhesive as the original, or it needs a longer time to take a set. Let it cure for a while and use a roller to ensure the join is compressed as much as possible..

Thanks, Mark! I heard about MEK and its potency, so I will stay away from it. All good advise so far. I looked at the roll of tape which came with the glider and I just don't know how old that stuff it. The adhesive may not be as strong as it was when new. I ordered fresh TESA stuff from W&W.
In addition, I put the current tape on when it was too hot and humid to fly here - South Carolina is known for reaching Rh values of 120% ;-). So maybe that has an influence, too.
Uli
'AS'

3M's website has so good info on this that parallels JJ's and other's advice. Application should be between 70 to 100F. Roller pressure about 15 psi - I use the stick handle, bearing thing but add a "tire" from a sliced bicycle inner tube or some self vulcanizing rubber tape. The tire helps even out the roller pressure.

On mylar seals, mask half and sand the other. The added tooth is critical. 3M says to use at least 50% isopropyl alcohol (I've used denatured alcohol as final clean with good results, but would assume 3M's recommendation is better than mine.)

It's important to avoid stress on seals initially (position control surfaces accordingly). Bond gets 50% strength during the first 20 minutes or so. 90% during first 24 hours.

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