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#11
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On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 01:53:57 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: I just lurk here but artists oil paint will work or add dry artist's pigment (not Paint). Artist's oil paint is traditionaly boiled linseed oil and pigment ground together. Turpentine is the solvent for oil paints. Karl Thanks Karl - Mike |
#12
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On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 20:41:51 +0900, Stealth Pilot
wrote: On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 17:29:37 -0500, Michael Horowitz wrote: On Sun, 01 Jun 2008 22:05:40 +0800, Stealth Pilot wrote: but ummmm. isnt the surface a dark rusted colour anyway. Stealth Pilot Stealth - recall that what I'm doing is sandblasting/wirebrushing a small section at a time and coming back to it a month later to do another small section. The turp/oil mix is to protect the surface until the whole fuselage is blasted/brushed at which time I'll remove the turp/oil mix and apply (probably) two part epoxy. So to answer your query, after blasting/brushing, no, it will be frosty steel color - Mike |
#13
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![]() "Stealth Pilot" wrote I actually dont know what happened to the fuselage I coated. it is on the other side of australia now. Sounds like you need to go on a walkabout, and see how it's doin, mate! ducking and grinning -- Jim in NC |
#14
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On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 07:47:33 -0500, Michael Horowitz
wrote: On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 20:41:51 +0900, Stealth Pilot wrote: On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 17:29:37 -0500, Michael Horowitz wrote: On Sun, 01 Jun 2008 22:05:40 +0800, Stealth Pilot wrote: but ummmm. isnt the surface a dark rusted colour anyway. Stealth Pilot Stealth - recall that what I'm doing is sandblasting/wirebrushing a small section at a time and coming back to it a month later to do another small section. The turp/oil mix is to protect the surface until the whole fuselage is blasted/brushed at which time I'll remove the turp/oil mix and apply (probably) two part epoxy. So to answer your query, after blasting/brushing, no, it will be frosty steel color - Mike Use a light wash of cheap rust paint. Aluminum TremClad will wash off with thinners or gasoline even after several years.Colours are not much better. Mix it with your Turps/linseed if you like |
#15
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Michael Horowitz wrote:
Stealth - recall that what I'm doing is sandblasting/wirebrushing a small section at a time and coming back to it a month later to do another small section. The turp/oil mix is to protect the surface until the whole fuselage is blasted/brushed at which time I'll remove the turp/oil mix and apply (probably) two part epoxy. So to answer your query, after blasting/brushing, no, it will be frosty steel color - Mike If you're blasting a small section at a time, why don't you just prime it as you go along, then touch it up when it's done? The paint will stick a lot better to freshly blasted metal and you'll save yourself a lot of work. -- John Kimmel I think it will be quiet around here now. So long. |
#16
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On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 11:07:14 -0800, John Kimmel
wrote: Michael Horowitz wrote: Stealth - recall that what I'm doing is sandblasting/wirebrushing a small section at a time and coming back to it a month later to do another small section. The turp/oil mix is to protect the surface until the whole fuselage is blasted/brushed at which time I'll remove the turp/oil mix and apply (probably) two part epoxy. So to answer your query, after blasting/brushing, no, it will be frosty steel color - Mike If you're blasting a small section at a time, why don't you just prime it as you go along, then touch it up when it's done? The paint will stick a lot better to freshly blasted metal and you'll save yourself a lot of work. that advise is probably the best. you can mix the epoxy primer in small amounts quite easily. I used a small revell aeromodellers airbrush to spray on the primer. almost no overspray, minimal solvent smells, and no slower than any other technique. Stealth Pilot |
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