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#11
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On Nov 26, 11:32*am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm Man that's ugly! Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? Andy That is a very good question. Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable. A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a Tost "wheel brake"). I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts; hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side... See ya, Dave "YO electric" |
#12
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DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote: http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm Man that's ugly! Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? Andy That is a very good question. Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable. A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a Tost "wheel brake"). I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts; hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side... See ya, Dave "YO electric" No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. See the installation instructions he http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf |
#13
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On Nov 26, 12:27*pm, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote: On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote: http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm Man that's ugly! Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? Andy That is a very good question. Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable. A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a Tost "wheel brake"). I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts; hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side... See ya, Dave "YO electric" No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. *See the installation instructions he http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf Aaarggg - It does work adequately with a beefier Bowden cable... |
#14
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On Nov 26, 10:27*am, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote: On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote: http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm Man that's ugly! Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? Andy That is a very good question. Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable. A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a Tost "wheel brake"). I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts; hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side... See ya, Dave "YO electric" No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. *See the installation instructions he http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...9-33-2444.pdf- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#15
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DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 12:27 pm, Greg Arnold wrote: DRN wrote: On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote: http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm Man that's ugly! Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? Andy That is a very good question. Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable. A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a Tost "wheel brake"). I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts; hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side... See ya, Dave "YO electric" No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. See the installation instructions he http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf Aaarggg - It does work adequately with a beefier Bowden cable... I upgraded to a disc brake on my 20-year-old Discus. I have the very same issues there, and haven't had any good ideas about how to upgrade to a beefier Bowden cable (motorcycle cable?) that still will work with the fittings designed for the bicycle cable. Also, I have wondered how a stiffer cable would affect the feel at the stick -- seems it would be stiffer in pitch. |
#16
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On Nov 26, 10:27*am, Greg Arnold wrote:
No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. *See the installation instructions he http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...9-33-2444.pdf- Hide quoted text - Not only cable but clamp screw type cable nipples. Makes me appreciate even more the direct actuated Cleveland system used by Schleicher. Andy |
#17
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On Nov 26, 12:42*pm, Greg Arnold wrote:
I upgraded to a disc brake on my 20-year-old Discus. *I have the very same issues there, and haven't had any good ideas about how to upgrade to a beefier Bowden cable (motorcycle cable?) that still will work with the fittings designed for the bicycle cable. * You do need to change a few fittings. Also, I have wondered how a stiffer cable would affect the feel at the stick -- seems it would be stiffer in pitch. No change if the cable is routed carefully... If you feel any change don't fly it ! Hope that helps, Best Regards, Dave "YO electric" |
#18
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On Nov 26, 8:32*am, Andy wrote:
Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? When I was building a brake system for the center stick controls of my HP-18, I decided I wanted the stick to have as little inertia, and as little mass aft of the ptich pivot, as practical. Hence my decision to use a mountain bike brake lever on the stick driving a fixed master cylinder through a low-friction sheathed cable. That's why this sailplane developer developed such a system. My caution was driven by an earlier accident involving a late acquaintenance whose sailplane unzipped in turbulence and distributed parts pretty widely. That ship's control stick had been modified in a way that some thought contributed to undamped PIO. Thanks, Bob K. |
#19
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On Nov 26, 1:05*pm, Bob Kuykendall wrote:
On Nov 26, 8:32*am, Andy wrote: Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the master cylinder with a bicycle cable? When I was building a brake system for the center stick controls of my HP-18, I decided I wanted the stick to have as little inertia, and as little mass aft of the ptich pivot, as practical. Hence my decision to use a mountain bike brake lever on the stick driving a fixed master cylinder through a low-friction sheathed cable. That's why this sailplane developer developed such a system. My caution was driven by an earlier accident involving a late acquaintenance whose sailplane unzipped in turbulence and distributed parts pretty widely. That ship's control stick had been modified in a way that some thought contributed to undamped PIO. Thanks, Bob K. Even better is to use a direct linkage from the spoiler and keep this buggery off the stick completely ! See ya, Dave "YO electric" PS: I know, doesn't work on the HP-18, no spoilers; my whale has it on the stick... |
#20
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On Nov 26, 7:54*am, BravoCharlie
wrote: I have also heard the suggestion to replace the plastic brake fluid line with braided stainless. *Any thoughts about that?- I found that the plastic brake line works perfectly well with very little stretch. I'm using Nylo-Seal NSR 1/8" OD, .026" wall stuff so the internal volume is as low as possible and the hoop and longitudinal stresses are reasonable. I originally expected that the small internal cross-section would make the flow rate low enough that the brakes would be slow to apply and slow to release, but that has not been the case. It seems that disk brakes operate with such little displacement that even .004in^2 of cross-section on a 4-foot tube provides adequate flow. Thanks, Bob K. |
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