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#22
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#23
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That looks pretty impressive. OTOH, the web page is not the most
informative. It did not say how long it will take. But it looks simple enough. Not sure it can take the floats though. Jizhong On Fri, 02 Apr 2004 15:56:59 -0600, Darrel Toepfer wrote: wrote: Shelly, Very cool plane, and so is the one posted by Corky. But this is not what I'm after at this moment. I'm looking for a beginner type. 1000hrs less, $50 less, easy built, easy care and easy fly. Try he http://www.greenlandings.com The SkyRanger meets your specs and is quite affordable and has a quick build time and has a decent cabin width... |
#24
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On TAP, O-320 is advertised cheaper than O-235.
On 2 Apr 2004 21:38:41 GMT, Del Rawlins wrote: In wrote: Thanks about the info and links. Very cool. I like your tall gear feature with the larger prop. 150hp is nice for a 150/152. Waste of an O-320. ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ |
#25
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An O-235 is literally a waste of parts. If you have an airplane that
can be upgraded to an O-320 (like a 7ECA Citabria) it isn't really any more expensive to do so than to overhaul the 235. Just don't bother with a 150/152. 8^) In wrote: On TAP, O-320 is advertised cheaper than O-235. On 2 Apr 2004 21:38:41 GMT, Del Rawlins wrote: In wrote: Thanks about the info and links. Very cool. I like your tall gear feature with the larger prop. 150hp is nice for a 150/152. Waste of an O-320. ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ |
#26
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OK, Del,
Let me give you a little bit more background of where I come from. I fly a Skylane but I'm planning to move back to China either this year or next. I need something to fly there. It seems that the rules are quite loose for ultralight and homebuilts in China. I've alway liked a bush plan. I really like to fly 150/152 and it's much cheaper (half the cost). You might be able to get a good project plane for under $10k and a mid time o-320 for similar amount. (I'm talking about treating it as a homebuilt in China.) But it's not a good bush plane. I'm wondering why.How can we shrink the T/O distance shrink by a factor of two? Compared with a Cub, I think the wing area is similar. I figure it must be the gross or the lack of power. So if I get a 150hp at the front, what will be the T/O at the gross of 1600#? Jizhong On 2 Apr 2004 21:51:50 GMT, Del Rawlins wrote: In wrote: Dale, Who's Dale? It's nice to have a airplane up to the Supercub or even a C180/185. But for a new comer, I'd like to stay with the less type like a 150HP 150/152 and the rest of those Kitfox class. Well, the Patrol is designed to work well with smaller engines, not that it matters if you want to build from a kit. If you are interested in a certified plane, a 150/152 would be my absolute last choice in a 150hp plane. They are cramped and don't have a lot of useful load with the heavier engine. In a certified plane I would want a Citabria, which has a more comfortable cockpit than the Cub which you didn't like, and is faster at the cost of a small amount of STOL performance. I want to have something that I can build with less than 1000hrs and less than $50k. And definitely not plan built. ![]() Understood. Be aware that you may spend more time that that even if you build from a kit, since build times vary a LOT depending on experience. I don't know what their prices are like these days, but consider the Murphy Rebel. ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ |
#27
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I might rip off all the gyros, the vac lines, radios, etc. Humm, maybe
I'll make it hand prop plane. It's not going to be trainer and I have my handheld radio and GPS. Jizhong On Sat, 03 Apr 2004 01:29:47 GMT, "nauga" wrote: Del Rawlins wrote... True, but when you bought an expensive Lycoming engine you didn't put it in a 150/152. I hear you. There's a 150/152 at my home field with a stormscope and an autopilot. Dave 'ISYN' Hyde |
#28
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In
wrote: I really like to fly 150/152 and it's much cheaper (half the cost). You might be able to get a good project plane for under $10k and a mid time o-320 for similar amount. Another thing to consider is that one reason 150s are often so cheap is that they usually have a ton of hours on them and are suffering from neglect. I have recently been working on a 150 belonging to a friend who bought it last summer and used it to get his private license. This was a basically safe, flying aircraft when we started digging into it but I have been amazed at the number of problems we found and are having to repair before he can fly it again. I guess what I am saying is go this route if you want to, but don't expect it to necessarily be as cheap as you hope. (I'm talking about treating it as a homebuilt in China.) But it's not a good bush plane. I'm wondering why.How can we shrink the T/O distance shrink by a factor of two? Compared with a Cub, I think the wing area is similar. I figure it must be the gross or the lack of power. So if I get a 150hp at the front, what will be the T/O at the gross of 1600#? The 150 just isn't designed for the bush mission. As for the wing area, the Cub has more at 178.5sq ft while the 150 only has 159.5. Combined with the lower empty weight (even with a larger engine) of the Cub, this gives it a lower wing loading and way better short field performance. The stock gross weight of the cub is also higher at 1750 pounds, and can be upgraded to 2000 pounds with a spar mod kit. One aspect I think you would do well to ponder is that of repairability in the field. I don't know what the parts situation is like in China, but I suspect that getting parts for a Cessna isn't going to be all that easy. The Cub, and many homebuilts for that matter, can be readily repaired in the field using basic shop equipment. You can just about roll a steel tube fuselage cage into a ball and still make it as good as new with simple tools and an oxyacetylene welding torch. A dentist of my acquaintance has wrecked the his cub over a half dozen times and is still flying that same airplane (no, I don't fly with him). If you prang the 150 over there good luck getting some of the fancy formed aluminum parts to fix it. It may not be a bad idea to buy a spare airframe to take with you for parts. If it were me, I would strongly consider buying a kit for something like the Zenith STOL 701 2 seater and an engine. That airplane is known for a fast build time, good STOL performance, and simple flight characteristics. You will lose some baggage capacity and top speed, but you will have an airplane with ZERO operating time (think: no student landings) on it which is repairable in the field with simple tools. You know this is true because people build the same airplane from plans that way. ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ |
#29
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I did a quick dirty linear analysis of a couple dosen similar
airplanes (Cessnas, Pipers, and Citabria). I found the T/O(over 50') is roughtly equal to 120*WingLoad + 60*PowerLoad - 1000. WingLoad is Weight/Area and PowerLoad is Weight/HP. So for a Cessna 150, if I'm 10% undergross, T/O will shrink by about 250' and 40% increase in power will reduce another 250'. So that will just make it about 850' with a full fuel useful load of me with one of my kids for a fishing trip. ![]() Is this very true that the T/F type is going to be about 1/4 lighter than a similar all metal one in terms of empty weight? The other question: how serious are the performance numbers for those advertised homebuilts? I really believe the numbers for the certified ones. Jizhong On 3 Apr 2004 18:48:20 GMT, Del Rawlins wrote: In wrote: I really like to fly 150/152 and it's much cheaper (half the cost). You might be able to get a good project plane for under $10k and a mid time o-320 for similar amount. Another thing to consider is that one reason 150s are often so cheap is that they usually have a ton of hours on them and are suffering from neglect. I have recently been working on a 150 belonging to a friend who bought it last summer and used it to get his private license. This was a basically safe, flying aircraft when we started digging into it but I have been amazed at the number of problems we found and are having to repair before he can fly it again. I guess what I am saying is go this route if you want to, but don't expect it to necessarily be as cheap as you hope. (I'm talking about treating it as a homebuilt in China.) But it's not a good bush plane. I'm wondering why.How can we shrink the T/O distance shrink by a factor of two? Compared with a Cub, I think the wing area is similar. I figure it must be the gross or the lack of power. So if I get a 150hp at the front, what will be the T/O at the gross of 1600#? The 150 just isn't designed for the bush mission. As for the wing area, the Cub has more at 178.5sq ft while the 150 only has 159.5. Combined with the lower empty weight (even with a larger engine) of the Cub, this gives it a lower wing loading and way better short field performance. The stock gross weight of the cub is also higher at 1750 pounds, and can be upgraded to 2000 pounds with a spar mod kit. One aspect I think you would do well to ponder is that of repairability in the field. I don't know what the parts situation is like in China, but I suspect that getting parts for a Cessna isn't going to be all that easy. The Cub, and many homebuilts for that matter, can be readily repaired in the field using basic shop equipment. You can just about roll a steel tube fuselage cage into a ball and still make it as good as new with simple tools and an oxyacetylene welding torch. A dentist of my acquaintance has wrecked the his cub over a half dozen times and is still flying that same airplane (no, I don't fly with him). If you prang the 150 over there good luck getting some of the fancy formed aluminum parts to fix it. It may not be a bad idea to buy a spare airframe to take with you for parts. If it were me, I would strongly consider buying a kit for something like the Zenith STOL 701 2 seater and an engine. That airplane is known for a fast build time, good STOL performance, and simple flight characteristics. You will lose some baggage capacity and top speed, but you will have an airplane with ZERO operating time (think: no student landings) on it which is repairable in the field with simple tools. You know this is true because people build the same airplane from plans that way. ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ |
#30
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Check out the Taylorcraft.
A 100hp F-19 gets off the ground in about 350' and will climb at 1000' per minute on a cool day. I've seen mine climb around 700 fpm at 70 degrees with two of us on board. There are lots of them on floats. The 65 and 85 hp models perform very well too. The factory is spinning up to make new birds: www.taylorcraft.com. They will be available with engines from the O-235 to O-360. |
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