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#21
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On Sunday, April 9, 2017 at 9:35:00 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I have done it both ways, but prefer polyprimer because it is white! Another tid-bit I have tried is to wet sand with 800 grit after 12 to 24 hours cure, then buff out right away. Shines like no tomorrow, believe the paint is moving under buffer, just enough to eliminate the 800 sand marks. JJ The extra step I now do with white epoxy primer makes me more comfortable that I have a really good surface before I spray finish. I put disclosure coat on and wet sand with 400. I find that, for me, it avoids unhappy surprises. It does add more time for sure. I sand the paint out with 1500, then 3000, then buff. I sand on the 3rd day, or later. JJ's methods are quite a bit faster. Not sure what Andy and Heinz are doing. FWIW UH |
#22
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Would someone share what is the PPG Concept paint color code refinishing shops use. I assume there is no ASW-24 or Discus white! Thank you
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#23
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On Sunday, April 9, 2017 at 6:26:35 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Would someone share what is the PPG Concept paint color code refinishing shops use. I assume there is no ASW-24 or Discus white! Thank you Heinz told me he uses PPG Concept 91370 Renault Blanc San Carlo. "Matches Simtec 2481 perfectly". On my '29 I used pure white base with no other tinting. I know I can match that. UH |
#24
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Pure white (aka mixing white) PPG, DMC 900 $434.25/gal if you please!.........Genesis-2 is the only manufacturer that I've seen who specified a Toyota color.
JJ |
#25
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#26
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On Sunday, April 9, 2017 at 5:37:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, April 9, 2017 at 9:35:00 AM UTC-4, wrote: I have done it both ways, but prefer polyprimer because it is white! Another tid-bit I have tried is to wet sand with 800 grit after 12 to 24 hours cure, then buff out right away. Shines like no tomorrow, believe the paint is moving under buffer, just enough to eliminate the 800 sand marks.. JJ The extra step I now do with white epoxy primer makes me more comfortable that I have a really good surface before I spray finish. I put disclosure coat on and wet sand with 400. I find that, for me, it avoids unhappy surprises. It does add more time for sure. I sand the paint out with 1500, then 3000, then buff. I sand on the 3rd day, or later. JJ's methods are quite a bit faster. Not sure what Andy and Heinz are doing. FWIW UH When it comes to PU, I give the paint some time. like 2-3 days. i find that if you try and sand the day after painting, it's too soft. then i cut the orange peel with 800 using diagonal strokes. after that it's spanwise sanding with a soft finishing block in 800, 1000, and 1500, then buff. i find that buffing usually needs to wait at least a week after paint application, otherwise you get crescent shaped streaks in the finish, from the polishing wheel gouging the paint. |
#27
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Uncle Hank, will you share the brand and product number for the epoxy primer you use?
Thank you |
#28
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On Monday, April 10, 2017 at 8:37:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Uncle Hank, will you share the brand and product number for the epoxy primer you use? Thank you The epoxy primer I use is made by Transtar. I'm travelling and don't have the numbers. It is available in white, buff, gray, and black. I use white. It looks pretty damn nice even before I spray color. UH |
#29
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Just redid my wings with Hank. Here is the primer he had me order....
Web address http://www.autorefinishsupply.com/ Product:PCL907-GL PCL Poly Primer White - Gallon |
#30
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On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 12:39:49 PM UTC-4, Charles Waldo wrote:
Just redid my wings with Hank. Here is the primer he had me order.... Web address http://www.autorefinishsupply.com/ Product:PCL907-GL PCL Poly Primer White - Gallon That is the polyester surface filler. This is followed by epoxy primer when painting with AU, UH |
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