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#1
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My Cherokee is in the paint shop, due out in a few weeks. Looking for
suggestions on maintaining a new Imron finish... Of course, I will solicit input from the paintshop as well. The plane is hangared, and only sits outside when on trips, so I figure that is a good start. Many people do not recommend washing/waxing new paint for several months (to allow full curing). Is this required? I fly IFR. Need I be concerned about flying into rain or keeping the plane out of rain until it is 'fully cured'? How about taking bugs off the leading edge? |
#2
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Nathan, I just had a VERY expensive paint job done by one of the better
shops in the US. They recommended that it be washed often (they gave me a bottle of their proprietary airplane detergent), and not waxed for a YEAR! (JetGglo paint). Any good paste car wax is OK by them. Nathan Young wrote: My Cherokee is in the paint shop, due out in a few weeks. Looking for suggestions on maintaining a new Imron finish... Of course, I will solicit input from the paintshop as well. The plane is hangared, and only sits outside when on trips, so I figure that is a good start. Many people do not recommend washing/waxing new paint for several months (to allow full curing). Is this required? I fly IFR. Need I be concerned about flying into rain or keeping the plane out of rain until it is 'fully cured'? How about taking bugs off the leading edge? |
#3
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![]() "Rip" wrote: Nathan, I just had a VERY expensive paint job done by one of the better shops in the US. Aw Rip, now you *know* ya gotta give us details! Shop? Airplane? Cost??? -- Dan C172RG at BFM |
#4
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1950 Navion A model. First paint job since factory new. Oxford Aviation,
Oxford, Maine. All control surfaces removed, airframe stripped to bare metal, acid etched, alodined, chromate primed. Jetglo Chrome Yellow base color with Jetglo Black trim and leading edges. Took 11 weeks and $17K. More of an airframe "restoration" than a simple paint job. Dan Luke wrote: "Rip" wrote: Nathan, I just had a VERY expensive paint job done by one of the better shops in the US. Aw Rip, now you *know* ya gotta give us details! Shop? Airplane? Cost??? |
#5
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On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 12:59:05 +0000, Nathan Young wrote:
My Cherokee is in the paint shop, due out in a few weeks. Looking for suggestions on maintaining a new Imron finish... Of course, I will solicit input from the paintshop as well. Do not buff until after the paint has cured. I've seen people that wanted to buff their paint to show it off. It looked like a lamprey tried to eat their car when they were done. Keep the buffing equipment away until the paint has curred. The shop will probably wet/hand polish before they give the plane to you. Leave it at that until the paint has fully cured. Unless you're a big fan of circular swirls in your paint, be patient and wait. Wash your plane regularly, but do not wax until your paint has completely cured. Once cured, wash and wax. Wax several times, once the paint is cured, over the next week or two. Afterwards, wax on a regular cycle. For cars, it should be at least several times per year. I'm not sure about planes, but you *may* want to consider it a little more often; then again, you'll be hangared. Using tricks like pledge on the leading edge may work well to allow you to maintain a car-like wax schedule. Since you'll be hangering it, I'd bet that a wax job, several times per year, is probably going to be plenty. Paint natually wants to oxydize. Maintaining a good wax job will minimize it. Just the same, you may want to consider buffing anually. Just be careful. I've seen so many paint jobs, professionally buffed, completely messed up. Regardless of what ayone tells you, a hand buff is always best because it's hardest to dig into or burn the paint. Electric buffers can be a huge time saver, but they are great for burning and scratching paint. Ever see a car with swirls all over it? That's from a bad buff job. It does take someone skilled at using buffing equipment to not tear up your paint. If you will have your plane buffed with an electric buffer, check their results on many other planes before you turn them loose on your baby. Personally, I'd much rather pay the premium price and have it hand buffed. It may be more expensive, but it's seriously hard to find someone that knows how to properly use buffing equipment, and even then, accidents happen. Worse, most joes on the street actually think they can operate one and don't have a problem digging swirls into your paint. They think it's supposed to be like that. In other words, do you want people looking at your paint, or the eye catching, shiny swirls all over your plane? Use caution. Remember, buffing is supposed to make your paint shiny and new. Buffing is not supposed to add eye catching swirls to your paint. Congrats! |
#6
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On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 12:59:05 GMT, Nathan Young
wrote: My Cherokee is in the paint shop, due out in a few weeks. Looking for suggestions on maintaining a new Imron finish... Of course, I will solicit input from the paintshop as well. The plane is hangared, and only sits outside when on trips, so I figure that is a good start. Many people do not recommend washing/waxing new paint for several months (to allow full curing). Is this required? I fly IFR. Need I be concerned about flying into rain or keeping the plane out of rain until it is 'fully cured'? How about taking bugs off the leading edge? New question. How long is cure time? |
#7
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![]() "Rip" wrote: Took 11 weeks and $17K. *gulp* Holy sh--! More of an airframe "restoration" than a simple paint job. I should hope so! Thanks for the details. I bet the Navion looks great. -- Dan C172RG at BFM |
#8
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On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 16:05:19 +0000, Nathan Young wrote:
On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 12:59:05 GMT, Nathan Young wrote: My Cherokee is in the paint shop, due out in a few weeks. Looking for suggestions on maintaining a new Imron finish... Of course, I will solicit input from the paintshop as well. The plane is hangared, and only sits outside when on trips, so I figure that is a good start. Many people do not recommend washing/waxing new paint for several months (to allow full curing). Is this required? I fly IFR. Need I be concerned about flying into rain or keeping the plane out of rain until it is 'fully cured'? How about taking bugs off the leading edge? New question. How long is cure time? They should be able to tell you. It will vary from paint to paint. The chemicals that they add to the paint prior to spraying, may also make a difference, as will humidity and temp. Make sure they tell you and then add a week or so to it. Whatever they tell you will be an educated guess, nothing more. Better to be safe than sorry. Greg |
#9
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You can see a photo at:
http://www.navioneer.org/riprelay/ Dan Luke wrote: "Rip" wrote: Took 11 weeks and $17K. *gulp* Holy sh--! More of an airframe "restoration" than a simple paint job. I should hope so! Thanks for the details. I bet the Navion looks great. |
#10
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All modern aircraft paints are urethane based. They "cure" in about 24
hours (to the point where you can walk on them, and have to sand them to apply another coat of paint). My paint shop recommended that I wait 12 months (1 full year), before applying any topical wax or coating. However, I'm free to wash at will. Rip Nathan Young wrote: On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 12:59:05 GMT, Nathan Young wrote: My Cherokee is in the paint shop, due out in a few weeks. Looking for suggestions on maintaining a new Imron finish... Of course, I will solicit input from the paintshop as well. The plane is hangared, and only sits outside when on trips, so I figure that is a good start. Many people do not recommend washing/waxing new paint for several months (to allow full curing). Is this required? I fly IFR. Need I be concerned about flying into rain or keeping the plane out of rain until it is 'fully cured'? How about taking bugs off the leading edge? New question. How long is cure time? |
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