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My turn in the barrel with alternator issues.
I have a PA-24 250 with an InterAv 50A alternator conversion installed that has a chronic but transient issue that appears to be associated with regulation. Observed symptoms include: - Overvoltage relay kicking the alternator offline when the gear motor shuts down when running the gear down (but not when running the gear up). - Overvoltage relay kicking the alternator offline with demand spikes (like hitting all the landing lights at the same time) - Transient discharge indications on the EI volt/ammeter when running the strobes. I've replaced the spike guard cap, rebuilt the wiring harness, made sure that the grounds are clean and that there are no ground loops. Measured resistance between the regulator output and the field terminal on the alternator is less than one ohm. The battery is new and the ship has copper cables. This issue isn't new; it's been observed with the aircraft since we purchased it and we're still trying to track it down. The issue with running the gear down is both the most common and the most disturbing, since the last thing I want to do is take all the avionics offline in order to recycle the alternator while swimming through the marine layer. I'd considered putting MOVs on the gear motor, but that doesn't address the real problem, which is that the regulator seems slow to respond to changing load, causing overshoots when heavy loads drop off and droops when loads come on. So, two questions for the group: - Anyone have a clue regarding what in the world is going on here and - Does anyone know of an alternative to the InterAv conversion for the O-540? Even my hangar mate with the '68 Cherokee has 60A alternator... Thanks, Chris. |
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On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 22:03:23 GMT, Chris Kennedy
wrote: My turn in the barrel with alternator issues. I have a PA-24 250 with an InterAv 50A alternator conversion installed that has a chronic but transient issue that appears to be associated with regulation. Observed symptoms include: - Overvoltage relay kicking the alternator offline when the gear motor shuts down when running the gear down (but not when running the gear up). - Overvoltage relay kicking the alternator offline with demand spikes (like hitting all the landing lights at the same time) - Transient discharge indications on the EI volt/ammeter when running the strobes. I've replaced the spike guard cap, rebuilt the wiring harness, made sure that the grounds are clean and that there are no ground loops. Measured resistance between the regulator output and the field terminal on the alternator is less than one ohm. The battery is new and the ship has copper cables. This issue isn't new; it's been observed with the aircraft since we purchased it and we're still trying to track it down. The issue with running the gear down is both the most common and the most disturbing, since the last thing I want to do is take all the avionics offline in order to recycle the alternator while swimming through the marine layer. I'd considered putting MOVs on the gear motor, but that doesn't address the real problem, which is that the regulator seems slow to respond to changing load, causing overshoots when heavy loads drop off and droops when loads come on. So, two questions for the group: - Anyone have a clue regarding what in the world is going on here and - Does anyone know of an alternative to the InterAv conversion for the O-540? Even my hangar mate with the '68 Cherokee has 60A alternator... Thanks, Chris. Have you measured the bus voltage? Sounds like it might be set too high, and possibly on the threshold of the OVR cutout. If so, any inductive spike would be able to push the voltage higher forcing an OVR cutout. Also, what is the voltage at the input to the OVR and the input to the VR? -Nathan |
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Nathan Young wrote:
Have you measured the bus voltage? Sounds like it might be set too high, and possibly on the threshold of the OVR cutout. If so, any inductive spike would be able to push the voltage higher forcing an OVR cutout. 14v and change. Even if the set point was too high it doesn't explain the tendency to intermittently show discharge with spiking loads, nor the occasionally-observed behavior of a largely resistive load (turning on the landing lights) tripping the thing off (the working theory is that the halogens have a high cold inrush current but quickly settle down to a lower operating current -- quick enough that the regulator overshoots). Also, what is the voltage at the input to the OVR and the input to the VR? Sorry. I forgot to include that all of the voltages in the system are within InterAv's specs for troubleshooting "common" failures. The conditions for these measurements are engine not running, master and field on, 12.5v at the alternator output terminal. Under those conditions the alternator regulator terminal has 0.9 volts on it, the regulator's regulator terminal has 0.9 volts, the regulator's field terminal has 1.2 volts and the alternator's field terminal 1.2 volts. The OVR is in series between the regulator's field output and the alternator's field terminal; its sense inputs are tied to the bus and the regulator ground. I'm wondering if brush chatter could be contributing. I can't find any log entries suggesting that they've been changed, and the thing has about 400 hours on it. I also haven't stuck a scope on it to see if a diode has given up the ghost, but I'm not seeing or hearing anything in the avionic stack that would suggest I've got a noisy bus. What I really want is a 100A conversion, but at this rate I'm going to end up ripping this alternator and its attendant bits out of the aircraft and installing Yet Another Copy of the InterAv kit :P Chris. |
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Chris Kennedy wrote:
: 14v and change. Even if the set point was too high it doesn't explain : the tendency to intermittently show discharge with spiking loads, nor : the occasionally-observed behavior of a largely resistive load (turning : on the landing lights) tripping the thing off (the working theory is : that the halogens have a high cold inrush current but quickly settle : down to a lower operating current -- quick enough that the regulator : overshoots). You are right about the high inrush for halogen (or, in fact, any incandescent) lamp. Don't forget that the full name is "tungsten-halogen", and the cold resistance of these 12V units is probably like 0.2 ohms. Of course, the resistance rises as the filament temp goes up. Handling tungsten inrush is a very tough job for switches, both mechanical and solid-state. Instead of a MOV across the gear motor, I would try zener diodes in inverse series, say about 14V 5W units. It could also be bad connections to your battery - the battery is supposed to soak up the junk on the bus, as well as handle transient inrush currents. Did you check the voltage drops across the battery ground braid, and the master contactor? If you've got an oscilloscope current probe, check the battery current when you get these OV trips. If the OV is reaching the battery terminals its current should spike too. A 400 Hz current probe, such as those sold by Sperry or Amprobe probably won't have the bandwidth needed to see these transients. Where are you located? -- Aaron Coolidge |
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I'm wondering if brush chatter could be contributing. I can't find any
log entries suggesting that they've been changed, and the thing has about 400 hours on it. Chris, For what its worth, I had the same symptoms after replacing a bad voltage regulator with a Zefftronics unit (I did this after having chronically low voltage in the system, turned out the old VR was an automotive one, a very bad thing with a split master switch, but that's another story). The new regulator was keeping up nicely, but when a large load was suddenly placed on the system (like flaps, or landing light), the voltage would momentarily shoot up to 16V, the built-in OVR then (correctly) tripped. Anyway, the problem was in the tired brushes, I had to get it going ASAP so I just swapped in a rebuilt alternator, but I am sure brush replacement would have fixed it also. Martin |
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What you have not said is what the voltage at the battery is when the
aircraft is running and the alternator is charging. This voltage should be 13.9 to 14.2 volts at the battery at about 70F degrees. The trip point on most over voltage limiters is set at 16.0 volts. Both of these points needs to be measured with a simple bench setup using a small light bulb for the alternator field load and a regulated variable voltage power supply, Increase the voltage to the regulator until the field light goes out. This is the voltage the regulator is set to regulate at. Continue to increase the voltage until the over voltage relay opens. This is the voltage the OVR is set to. Do not exceed 17 volts. Until you know these two voltages you are guessing and trying to fix the problem with the hope and poke method. A bad diode in the alternator can cause the over voltage to trip due to the excessive voltage ripple. A bad diode in the alternator will also limit your maximum output current to less than 2/3 of rated current and may be as low as 1/3 if it is shorted. Turn on all of your lights and other loads on and measure the current from the alternator. Measure both the AC and DC currents. If the AC current is more than 15% of the DC current when you are generating at least 50% of rated current you have a bad alternator diode or stator winding. Make damn sure you do NOT have any stainless steel washers between the battery post and the battery cables. Do not use stainless parts in electrical circuits because they are high resistance. The film that forms on stainless parts to keep them from rusting can be very high resistance. John frerichsatrodotcom On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 22:03:23 GMT, Chris Kennedy wrote: My turn in the barrel with alternator issues. I have a PA-24 250 with an InterAv 50A alternator conversion installed that has a chronic but transient issue that appears to be associated with regulation. Observed symptoms include: - Overvoltage relay kicking the alternator offline when the gear motor shuts down when running the gear down (but not when running the gear up). - Overvoltage relay kicking the alternator offline with demand spikes (like hitting all the landing lights at the same time) - Transient discharge indications on the EI volt/ammeter when running the strobes. I've replaced the spike guard cap, rebuilt the wiring harness, made sure that the grounds are clean and that there are no ground loops. Measured resistance between the regulator output and the field terminal on the alternator is less than one ohm. The battery is new and the ship has copper cables. This issue isn't new; it's been observed with the aircraft since we purchased it and we're still trying to track it down. The issue with running the gear down is both the most common and the most disturbing, since the last thing I want to do is take all the avionics offline in order to recycle the alternator while swimming through the marine layer. I'd considered putting MOVs on the gear motor, but that doesn't address the real problem, which is that the regulator seems slow to respond to changing load, causing overshoots when heavy loads drop off and droops when loads come on. So, two questions for the group: - Anyone have a clue regarding what in the world is going on here and - Does anyone know of an alternative to the InterAv conversion for the O-540? Even my hangar mate with the '68 Cherokee has 60A alternator... Thanks, Chris. |
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We had a similar problem in our 172M. The over voltage detector was
firing at too low a voltage, and we would get multiple dropouts. To simplify diagnosics we used a handheld electric motor and Vee belt to drive the alternator and then an adjustable power supply or fat resistor load while looking at the 14 V lead with an oscilloscope. It is a lot better than working around a spinning propeller. Found the problem right away. I noticed that the original overvoltage wiring "blob" had a small tweekpot adjustment screw showing on one end. I suppose we could have adjusted the trip voltage a little higher with that, but we already had purchased a new one. Pipers may not be the same. BTW - when measuring voltage drops, be sure to measure across as many faying (joint)surfaces as possible. Your resistances sounded kinda high. |
#8
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Chris,
I think what John_F said is great! The clues a It's happened since new It's a PA24-250 All grounds cleaned and "checked" Any big load trips the OVP ( except gear up which is less) I still thinks it's a ground loop. I believe it's the battery cable to the frame(?) I forget how this attaches on the PA24. Measure the voltage drop on the battery from minus terminal of battery to the frame and with a long "wire" to the bolt on the starter ground while someone "cranks". How much voltage? I thinks it's a ground resistance problem! Et all, does this make sense? A ground problem would raise the voltage seen to the OVP artificially, trip it.... The alternator seems to keep the battery up, lower current will not trip OVP, only higher current... I know on our Cherokees I always took the battery cables off the belly and cleaned em.....often.. and every low resistance high current connection also. Did I miss a clue here that blows this out of the water? I looked at this that the alternator is working fine! John N3DR wrote in message om... We had a similar problem in our 172M. The over voltage detector was firing at too low a voltage, and we would get multiple dropouts. To simplify diagnosics we used a handheld electric motor and Vee belt to drive the alternator and then an adjustable power supply or fat resistor load while looking at the 14 V lead with an oscilloscope. It is a lot better than working around a spinning propeller. Found the problem right away. I noticed that the original overvoltage wiring "blob" had a small tweekpot adjustment screw showing on one end. I suppose we could have adjusted the trip voltage a little higher with that, but we already had purchased a new one. Pipers may not be the same. BTW - when measuring voltage drops, be sure to measure across as many faying (joint)surfaces as possible. Your resistances sounded kinda high. |
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