My Aztec's first Annual

Well, I met with the mechanics yesterday and we went through the
complete squawk sheet. I've been dropping by almost everyday just to get
updates and looks at things while it's all opened up, so there weren't any
last-minute surprises. One of the primary things to get through were the
logs, which were in a bit of disarray. The airplane has spent quite a bit of
time in Canada, so a large portion of the logs are in French. Thankfully the
AD numbers and such are still the same so one can muddle through on most
things. The shop that I'm using puts everything into a computerized AD list
if they've not seen the airplane before so they can track everything easier
in the future, it also cleans things up a bit. I now have a list of all
applicable ADs, how they were complied with, when the next inspection, etc.
is due, which is nice. Should make things straightforward next annual. I
also appreciate that they just did this as part of an annual, they didn't
charge extra labor, even though I know it took quite a bit of time for them
to do this.

Compressions on the engines were LHE 1-77,2-73,3-70,4-75,5-76,6-76 and
RHE 1-76,2-76,3-73,4-74,5-76,6-74

The batteries won't hold a charge for very long so I'll be replacing
those. The bolt for the Right alternator was found in the bottom of the cowl
(this was one of the things that had been replaced while the plane sat, so
that one was just weird, and I think that the bolt is safety wired, but I
guess it hadn't been). We needed to reposition the fuel injector lines on
the right engine to comply with an AD, redid the clamps as well since they
weren't the correct type. There was a missing rivet for one of the camlocks
on the lower cowl. The nose cargo door seal is just old and cracked, so I'll
be replacing that to keep it from leaking. The intake manifold gaskets on #4
cylinder had separated and cracked, and in fact had been previously repaired
in such a way that I'll have to pull the jug and replace it (If I ever find
someone putting JB weld on an aircraft engine I swear I'll do something
unpleasant!). We couldn't find any log entries on the Vacuum pumps, so
they're probably the same ones as when the engines were installed. There is
a Service Bulletin that says they should be replaced every 500 hours, but
since I've two on this aircraft I'm not going to immediately replace them,
they both work fine and I'm pulling enough vacuum even at 1000 RPM to keep
things in the green arc. Just something I'll need to watch closely. The oil
return lines are loose on the right engine, so they'll need to be tightened
up (I'm told this is something to check every time I change the oil as they
shake loose, that and taking a screwdriver to the valve covers to make sure
they're tight, something inherent to Lycomings?) Most other things are items
that need to be tightened or have new O-rings installed to stop leaks.
A couple of major things though, and these are the things that have me a
bit bummed, but I guess it could've been worse. There is illegal repair on
the right-hand engine mount. It's a repair that should have been sleeved,
but all they did was put a bead around it. They brought in a welder and he
said it's too tight for him to get his gear in there to weld while the
engine is there, so I'll have to remove the engine to get fixed. Since the
engine will be off the aircraft, I'll replace the engine mounts, since
they're slipping just a bit and it's not going to cost me any extra labor to
have it done.
One of the brake calipers on the right side was broken where one of the
bolts attach it. Some of the brake pads are worn almost to the rivets. They
all leak a bit. To repair/replace some of the components would cost $2300
while getting a whole new brake kit would cost $2500. It took some time to
source the old parts because the part number have changed a number of times.
I decided to just get the whole kit and bring everything current, the cost
difference was marginal and now I'll have part numbers someone can actually
look up. The brakes also had a bit of play in them, so they were rubbing on
the inner sidewall of the tire, so I will be replacing those as well.
The last big thing is the flap torque tube AD. I figured it costs just
as much labor wise to pull it out to inspect as it would to do the
replacement, so I ordered the new part and will have that installed as well.
Since there are alot of little things, adjustments, rebuilding
components with new O-rings, etc. The labor will be a significant part of
the cost of correcting the squawks post-annual (since in my mind the annual
is just the inspection portion), and I didn't get away with as little cost
as I'd like, but it will be put back together and everything will be done,
so next years annual should be pretty straightforward.

--
Louis L. Perley III
N46000 - C152
N370 - PA-23-250

Thanks Louis.

I found the invoice from when our Aztec had it's torque tube replaced. It
was sometime in 2003. The tube cost less than $600 and the labor was about
$300. I then looked up the log book entry and found that they took the old
tube out and sent it and the new tube to a machine shop to have the holes
drilled, that way the new tube ended up exactly as the old one. This should
prevent some of the problems others have posted about drilling the new tubes
as per the drawings only to find that they don't line up where they need to
be.

Jim


"Louis L. Perley III" wrote in message
...
Well, I met with the mechanics yesterday and we went through the
complete squawk sheet. I've been dropping by almost everyday just to get
updates and looks at things while it's all opened up, so there weren't any
last-minute surprises. One of the primary things to get through were the
logs, which were in a bit of disarray. The airplane has spent quite a bit
of
time in Canada, so a large portion of the logs are in French. Thankfully
the
AD numbers and such are still the same so one can muddle through on most
things. The shop that I'm using puts everything into a computerized AD
list
if they've not seen the airplane before so they can track everything
easier
in the future, it also cleans things up a bit. I now have a list of all
applicable ADs, how they were complied with, when the next inspection,
etc.
is due, which is nice. Should make things straightforward next annual. I
also appreciate that they just did this as part of an annual, they didn't
charge extra labor, even though I know it took quite a bit of time for
them
to do this.

Compressions on the engines were LHE 1-77,2-73,3-70,4-75,5-76,6-76 and
RHE 1-76,2-76,3-73,4-74,5-76,6-74

The batteries won't hold a charge for very long so I'll be replacing
those. The bolt for the Right alternator was found in the bottom of the
cowl
(this was one of the things that had been replaced while the plane sat, so
that one was just weird, and I think that the bolt is safety wired, but I
guess it hadn't been). We needed to reposition the fuel injector lines on
the right engine to comply with an AD, redid the clamps as well since they
weren't the correct type. There was a missing rivet for one of the
camlocks
on the lower cowl. The nose cargo door seal is just old and cracked, so
I'll
be replacing that to keep it from leaking. The intake manifold gaskets on
#4
cylinder had separated and cracked, and in fact had been previously
repaired
in such a way that I'll have to pull the jug and replace it (If I ever
find
someone putting JB weld on an aircraft engine I swear I'll do something
unpleasant!). We couldn't find any log entries on the Vacuum pumps, so
they're probably the same ones as when the engines were installed. There
is
a Service Bulletin that says they should be replaced every 500 hours, but
since I've two on this aircraft I'm not going to immediately replace them,
they both work fine and I'm pulling enough vacuum even at 1000 RPM to keep
things in the green arc. Just something I'll need to watch closely. The
oil
return lines are loose on the right engine, so they'll need to be
tightened
up (I'm told this is something to check every time I change the oil as
they
shake loose, that and taking a screwdriver to the valve covers to make
sure
they're tight, something inherent to Lycomings?) Most other things are
items
that need to be tightened or have new O-rings installed to stop leaks.
A couple of major things though, and these are the things that have me
a
bit bummed, but I guess it could've been worse. There is illegal repair on
the right-hand engine mount. It's a repair that should have been sleeved,
but all they did was put a bead around it. They brought in a welder and he
said it's too tight for him to get his gear in there to weld while the
engine is there, so I'll have to remove the engine to get fixed. Since the
engine will be off the aircraft, I'll replace the engine mounts, since
they're slipping just a bit and it's not going to cost me any extra labor
to
have it done.
One of the brake calipers on the right side was broken where one of
the
bolts attach it. Some of the brake pads are worn almost to the rivets.
They
all leak a bit. To repair/replace some of the components would cost $2300
while getting a whole new brake kit would cost $2500. It took some time to
source the old parts because the part number have changed a number of
times.
I decided to just get the whole kit and bring everything current, the cost
difference was marginal and now I'll have part numbers someone can
actually
look up. The brakes also had a bit of play in them, so they were rubbing
on
the inner sidewall of the tire, so I will be replacing those as well.
The last big thing is the flap torque tube AD. I figured it costs just
as much labor wise to pull it out to inspect as it would to do the
replacement, so I ordered the new part and will have that installed as
well.
Since there are alot of little things, adjustments, rebuilding
components with new O-rings, etc. The labor will be a significant part of
the cost of correcting the squawks post-annual (since in my mind the
annual
is just the inspection portion), and I didn't get away with as little cost
as I'd like, but it will be put back together and everything will be done,
so next years annual should be pretty straightforward.

--
Louis L. Perley III
N46000 - C152
N370 - PA-23-250




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On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 13:10:56 -0600, "Jim Burns"
wrote:

I then looked up the log book entry and found that they took the old
tube out and sent it and the new tube to a machine shop to have the holes
drilled, that way the new tube ended up exactly as the old one.


That's a good idea! Thanks.

Also thanks to Louise for the post.

z

I wish I could claim credit for it!
Jim

"zatatime" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 13:10:56 -0600, "Jim Burns"
wrote:

I then looked up the log book entry and found that they took the old
tube out and sent it and the new tube to a machine shop to have the holes
drilled, that way the new tube ended up exactly as the old one.


That's a good idea! Thanks.

Also thanks to Louise for the post.

z


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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.788 / Virus Database: 533 - Release Date: 11/1/2004

Louis L. Perley III wrote:
: they're probably the same ones as when the engines were installed. There is
: a Service Bulletin that says they should be replaced every 500 hours, but
: since I've two on this aircraft I'm not going to immediately replace them,
: they both work fine and I'm pulling enough vacuum even at 1000 RPM to keep
: things in the green arc. Just something I'll need to watch closely.

Dry vacuum pumps fail without catastrophically and without notice. If it's
been awhile, I'd might replace at least one. I'd definately add the inline
chunck-catching vacuum filter so if one goes it won't spew chunks into the system and
kill the other stuff. I'm, of course, assuming this can be done/makes sense on a
twin.

-Cory


--

************************************************** ***********************
* Cory Papenfuss *
* Electrical Engineering candidate Ph.D. graduate student *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
************************************************** ***********************

"Louis L. Perley III" wrote in message
...
Well, I met with the mechanics yesterday and we went through the
complete squawk sheet. I've been dropping by almost everyday just to get
updates and looks at things while it's all opened up, so there weren't any
last-minute surprises. One of the primary things to get through were the
logs, which were in a bit of disarray.

You may want to sit down with you significant other for a day and work on
getting your logs in order just incase you need to use another IA in the
future. .

The airplane has spent quite a bit of
time in Canada, so a large portion of the logs are in French. Thankfully
the
AD numbers and such are still the same so one can muddle through on most
things.

Find a translator/interrupter to convert it in to English have then
notarized so your A&P IA can actually read what it says may be good for the
future value of your aircraft. If I was a buyer I would want to see English
log's notarized from a translator/interrupter unless I know the language.

The shop that I'm using puts everything into a computerized AD list
if they've not seen the airplane before so they can track everything
easier
in the future, it also cleans things up a bit. I now have a list of all
applicable ADs, how they were complied with, when the next inspection,
etc.
is due, which is nice. Should make things straightforward next annual. I
also appreciate that they just did this as part of an annual, they didn't
charge extra labor, even though I know it took quite a bit of time for
them
to do this.

Compressions on the engines were LHE 1-77,2-73,3-70,4-75,5-76,6-76 and
RHE 1-76,2-76,3-73,4-74,5-76,6-74

The batteries won't hold a charge for very long so I'll be replacing
those.

Wise Choice!

The bolt for the Right alternator was found in the bottom of the cowl
(this was one of the things that had been replaced while the plane sat, so
that one was just weird, and I think that the bolt is safety wired, but I
guess it hadn't been).

Ok, now what the deal with people not safety tying bolts my starter bolts on
my C-150 were not safety tied and discoverd not to be this annual

We needed to reposition the fuel injector lines on
the right engine to comply with an AD, redid the clamps as well since they
weren't the correct type. There was a missing rivet for one of the
camlocks
on the lower cowl. The nose cargo door seal is just old and cracked, so
I'll
be replacing that to keep it from leaking.

The intake manifold gaskets on #4
cylinder had separated and cracked, and in fact had been previously
repaired
in such a way that I'll have to pull the jug and replace it (If I ever
find
someone putting JB weld on an aircraft engine I swear I'll do something
unpleasant!).

That really disturbing

We couldn't find any log entries on the Vacuum pumps, so
they're probably the same ones as when the engines were installed. There
is
a Service Bulletin that says they should be replaced every 500 hours, but
since I've two on this aircraft I'm not going to immediately replace them,
they both work fine and I'm pulling enough vacuum even at 1000 RPM to keep
things in the green arc. Just something I'll need to watch closely. The
oil
return lines are loose on the right engine, so they'll need to be
tightened
up (I'm told this is something to check every time I change the oil as
they
shake loose, that and taking a screwdriver to the valve covers to make
sure
they're tight, something inherent to Lycomings?) Most other things are
items
that need to be tightened or have new O-rings installed to stop leaks.

O-rings are a consumable part very inexpensive

A couple of major things though, and these are the things that have me
a
bit bummed, but I guess it could've been worse. There is illegal repair on
the right-hand engine mount. It's a repair that should have been sleeved,
but all they did was put a bead around it. They brought in a welder and he
said it's too tight for him to get his gear in there to weld while the
engine is there, so I'll have to remove the engine to get fixed. Since the
engine will be off the aircraft, I'll replace the engine mounts, since
they're slipping just a bit and it's not going to cost me any extra labor
to
have it done.
One of the brake calipers on the right side was broken where one of
the
bolts attach it. Some of the brake pads are worn almost to the rivets.
They
all leak a bit. To repair/replace some of the components would cost $2300
while getting a whole new brake kit would cost $2500. It took some time to
source the old parts because the part number have changed a number of
times.
I decided to just get the whole kit and bring everything current, the cost
difference was marginal and now I'll have part numbers someone can
actually
look up.

Wise Choice

The brakes also had a bit of play in them, so they were rubbing on
the inner sidewall of the tire, so I will be replacing those as well.
The last big thing is the flap torque tube AD. I figured it costs just
as much labor wise to pull it out to inspect as it would to do the
replacement, so I ordered the new part and will have that installed as
well.
Since there are alot of little things, adjustments, rebuilding
components with new O-rings, etc. The labor will be a significant part of
the cost of correcting the squawks post-annual (since in my mind the
annual
is just the inspection portion), and I didn't get away with as little cost
as I'd like, but it will be put back together and everything will be done,
so next years annual should be pretty straightforward.

Have you thought of fixing the discrepancy's yourself while being
supervised? can save you a bundle in labor costs!



--
Louis L. Perley III
N46000 - C152
N370 - PA-23-250

"Jim Burns" wrote in message
...

I found the invoice from when our Aztec had it's torque tube replaced. It
was sometime in 2003. The tube cost less than $600 and the labor was
about
$300. I then looked up the log book entry and found that they took the
old
tube out and sent it and the new tube to a machine shop to have the holes
drilled, that way the new tube ended up exactly as the old one. This
should
prevent some of the problems others have posted about drilling the new
tubes
as per the drawings only to find that they don't line up where they need
to
be.

Jim


I was quoted $482 for the tube, so I wasn't too worried. I'll pass along the
note about keeping the original to know where to drill the holes. Thanks for
the tip!

--
Louis L. Perley III
N46000 - C152
N370 - PA-23-250

Dry vacuum pumps fail without catastrophically and without notice. If
it's
been awhile, I'd might replace at least one. I'd definately add the
inline
chunck-catching vacuum filter so if one goes it won't spew chunks into the
system and
kill the other stuff. I'm, of course, assuming this can be done/makes
sense on a
twin.

-Cory


They are Parker Hannifin, I figured I'd just keep them in there so in the
event of a failure/crash that has absolutely nothing to do with the vacuum
pumps, my estate can collect a ton of money (I'm kidding!) The system as
installed does have some sort of filter just before they go into the
instrument cluster. I only noticed this because I'll be replacing the tube
that goes from it to the instruments, as it's starting to look cracked, etc.
It still works fine, I just figured for $5 or so, it's not worth it to keep
it in there as a potential failure.

--
Louis L. Perley III
N46000 - C152
N370 - PA-23-250

Well, I met with the mechanics yesterday and we went through the
complete squawk sheet. I've been dropping by almost everyday just to get
updates and looks at things while it's all opened up, so there weren't
any
last-minute surprises. One of the primary things to get through were the
logs, which were in a bit of disarray.

You may want to sit down with you significant other for a day and work on
getting your logs in order just incase you need to use another IA in the
future. .


I'm generally pretty good with this, I go through my logs on the 152 at
least yearly myself to refresh my memory of what's in there, etc. Since I
only recently bought out the other shareholders, I didn't have the logs in
my control until a couple of weeks ago.

The airplane has spent quite a bit of
time in Canada, so a large portion of the logs are in French. Thankfully
the
AD numbers and such are still the same so one can muddle through on most
things.

Find a translator/interrupter to convert it in to English have then
notarized so your A&P IA can actually read what it says may be good for
the
future value of your aircraft. If I was a buyer I would want to see
English
log's notarized from a translator/interrupter unless I know the language.


Interesting thought. Never would have considered such a thing, but it makes
sense. Too bad I'd not considered this a week ago, as one of my co-workers
who is fluent in French just moved back to Nice, France.

The batteries won't hold a charge for very long so I'll be replacing
those.

Wise Choice!


I need Gill G-35 batteries, but they also list a G-35N and a G-35S, do the
letters mean anything inportant? The prices are higher for the lettered
parts.

The bolt for the Right alternator was found in the bottom of the cowl
(this was one of the things that had been replaced while the plane sat,
so
that one was just weird, and I think that the bolt is safety wired, but
I
guess it hadn't been).

Ok, now what the deal with people not safety tying bolts my starter bolts
on
my C-150 were not safety tied and discoverd not to be this annual


I don't know but it does make me wonder what other things might have been
overlooked. I'm having them be very thorough on this inspection/annual.
We're redoing some of the safety wire on some pieces because it just doesn't
look like it's done right, like one some of the control turnbuckles.


O-rings are a consumable part very inexpensive


Never been happier when I was being told "It's just a leak"

Have you thought of fixing the discrepancy's yourself while being
supervised? can save you a bundle in labor costs!


The main difficulty is time. I might take a crack at doing some of the basic
things while they work on the more complex issues/repairs. I enjoy learning
about how all this stuff is put together and how it works. Who knows, maybe
knowing stuff like this will save my bacon one day if I get stranded
somewhere.

--
Louis L. Perley III
N46000 - C152
N370 - PA-23-250

"Louis L. Perley III" writes:

They brought in a welder and he
said it's too tight for him to get his gear in there to weld while the
engine is there, so I'll have to remove the engine to get fixed. Since the
engine will be off the aircraft, I'll replace the engine mounts, since
they're slipping just a bit and it's not going to cost me any extra labor to
have it done.

Are your engine mounts affected by the crack inspection AD? If so, it'd sure
be an opportune time to replace one.

The labor will be a significant part of
the cost of correcting the squawks post-annual (since in my mind the annual
is just the inspection portion), and I didn't get away with as little cost
as I'd like, but it will be put back together and everything will be done,
so next years annual should be pretty straightforward.

You didn't have to replace engines, props, hubs or even fuel cells?! You
got off easy.

Good luck.

--kyler