Tiedown Stakes (Article in SportAv.)

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.

The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.

Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

In article ,
Jim Weir wrote:
but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
a hammer and ruining the threads.

I was looking at those plans but figuring I'd just weld the head on.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch.

I don't think you're ever supposed to get it off. Why would you? It
looks like it's only there to hold on the washer, which is only there to
give you something to pry it out by.

--
Ben Jackson

http://www.ben.com/

(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-
-It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
-it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
-a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

The "corkscrew" type of tiedown appear to be the most worthless type of
tiedowns. I use the tiedown set from Sporty's pilot shop. It comes
with 3 tiedown rods. They have an auger at the lower end that is about
3 or 4 inches in diameter. It is a miniature version of what is
commonly used as anchors for guy wires in tower construction. I keep
the box in the baggage compartment at all times. I also have a piece of
old ground rod about 12 to 14 inches long (so it also fits into the
box). It is a steel ground rod coated with copper. I use this to twist
the tiedowns into the ground. Works good at Oshkosh, where the ground
is usually pretty hard with a rock or two as well.

Scott, N0EDV
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die


Jim Weir wrote:
(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-
-It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
-it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
-a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

I thought it was brilliant. I am going to build some for my 172. So
simple, really.

Ross

Jim Weir wrote:

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.

The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.

Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 10:44:21 +0100, Scott
wrote:

The "corkscrew" type of tiedown appear to be the most worthless type of
tiedowns. I use the tiedown set from Sporty's pilot shop. It comes

Actually the "corkscrew" tie downs made from spring steel work very
well. They came from Sporty's as well. I have three and have used a
three foot piece of pipe to get them in and out (Thanks Cy)

They held is some pretty stong winds.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

with 3 tiedown rods. They have an auger at the lower end that is about
3 or 4 inches in diameter. It is a miniature version of what is
commonly used as anchors for guy wires in tower construction. I keep
the box in the baggage compartment at all times. I also have a piece of
old ground rod about 12 to 14 inches long (so it also fits into the
box). It is a steel ground rod coated with copper. I use this to twist
the tiedowns into the ground. Works good at Oshkosh, where the ground
is usually pretty hard with a rock or two as well.

Scott, N0EDV
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die


Jim Weir wrote:
(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-
-It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
-it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
-a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

"Roger Halstead" wrote comes

Actually the "corkscrew" tie downs made from spring steel work very
well. They came from Sporty's as well. I have three and have used a
three foot piece of pipe to get them in and out (Thanks Cy)

They held is some pretty stong winds.

Roger Halstead

Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
spring steel.
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote...

The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.

Mmmmm...dog steaks.

Dave 'Homer' hyde

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 01:12:18 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote:

:
:Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
:hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
:spring steel.

Or better. My wife got me a set of these
http://www.airtimemfg.com/

"nauga" wrote:

Morgans wrote...

The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.

Mmmmm...dog steaks.

Dave 'Homer' hyde



LOL! OSH catering to the tastes of some international visitors?
--
Alex
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