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VW1834 and Slick 4001 Mags



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 1st 05, 10:47 PM
M J Veary
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Default VW1834 and Slick 4001 Mags

Dear All,

Have recently purchased an homebuilt that has an 1834VW with twin Slick 4001
impulse magnetos. Nice.

I know that a manual used to be available for this magneto, but I have been
unable to get hold of a copy. Does anyone either have a copy that I could
have a copy of (if you see what I mean) or know where a pdf copy is.....just
wondering.

Actually, what I would like to know is some service information, like what
is the correct points gap and 'e-gap' setting?

Also, what plugs/plug gap do you recommend for this engine/magneto
combination?

Any and all help most gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,

Michael.


  #2  
Old March 2nd 05, 12:58 AM
Morgans
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"M J Veary" wrote

Dear All,

Have recently purchased an homebuilt that has an 1834VW with twin Slick

4001
impulse magnetos. Nice.



That's all you're gonna' tell us? Com'mon, sing like a soprano! :-)

What's it on, how does it fly, how old, how many hours, is it pretty, how
much work to do on it, what are your plans, how big is your smile? g
--
Jim in NC


  #3  
Old March 2nd 05, 12:43 PM
M J Veary
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Jim,

The engine is fitted to a Clutton FRED Series III which is a folding wing,
open cockpit parasol taildragger.

It really is the most delightful little aeroplane and while it flies very
slowly (29kt stall, 55kt cruise) it reminds one of the aerial observation
planes of inter-war years; thusly it makes a fantastic platform for aerial
photogrpahy.

I would include a picture herewith but am not sure if group ettiquette
allows it so email me if you would like to see some pictures.

An excellent site on the type has been created by Pastor Mike Townsley:

http://www.geocities.com/fredplane/

My particular example is around ten years old with about 200 hrs. It was
built by a WWII bomber pilot and he certainly did a beautiful job.

If you would like to know more, either ask here or mail me directly.

Michael.



  #4  
Old March 4th 05, 04:14 PM
Richard Bennett
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If it is a "Lister" conversion, beware soft gears, the PFA Engineering bods
have all the data. Builder of G-PFAC many years ago.
"M J Veary" wrote in message
...
Jim,

The engine is fitted to a Clutton FRED Series III which is a folding wing,
open cockpit parasol taildragger.

It really is the most delightful little aeroplane and while it flies very
slowly (29kt stall, 55kt cruise) it reminds one of the aerial observation
planes of inter-war years; thusly it makes a fantastic platform for aerial
photogrpahy.

I would include a picture herewith but am not sure if group ettiquette
allows it so email me if you would like to see some pictures.

An excellent site on the type has been created by Pastor Mike Townsley:

http://www.geocities.com/fredplane/

My particular example is around ten years old with about 200 hrs. It was
built by a WWII bomber pilot and he certainly did a beautiful job.

If you would like to know more, either ask here or mail me directly.

Michael.





  #5  
Old March 4th 05, 11:23 PM
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That mag might have the Slick timing tool slots in the rotor.
Take the rear cover off, the distributor out, and look for a slot in
the rear end of the magnet rotor. Depending on which direction the mag
turns (as seen from the gear end of the mag) you'll use the slot marked
LH or RH. Slick makes a small tool that fits in that slot, and with the
tool up against the laminated core in the direction of rotation, the
points should just be opening. This sets the E-gap, and points gap is
whatever you end up with when the E-gap is set. Points gap should be
equal when either end of the cam block is holding them open; if not,
the block might be unevenly worn. The distributor rotor bearings were
also prone to wear.
You could make a tool from a bit of steel sheet of a thickness
that just fits in the slot without slopping around. Would be around
..062".
Putting the ditributor back on you line up the line on the small
gear with the appropriate line (R or L) with the distributor housing,
after inserting a pin into the L or R slot in the housing and through
the L or R hole in the rotor. The pin is left in place to locate the
mag gear to the engine gear, with the #1 piston at TDC on compression.
DON'T FORGET to take the pin out before turning the crank!
Dan

 




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