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#1
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#2
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Might help to specify GROB in string
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On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 11:33:17 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Might help to specify GROB in string its in the title of the post |
#4
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Ah, not on little screen til after you open it
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#5
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On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 12:19:41 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Ah, not on little screen til after you open it Ah yeah you are right. It’s cutoff on mobile version. I’ll try to fix, thanks. |
#6
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That repair looks like it will be moderately expensive. It seem that all will be forced to do it on affected aircraft because the you can’t inspect it without having done almost all of the repair instructions and closing it up.
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#7
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On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 10:17:09 AM UTC-4, soaringjac wrote:
See the link below http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-...rod_200408.pdf Our club has a Grob 102 Astir CS. We are having wrench access problems trying to remove the lower rudder bolt. We can't get a wrench on either the bolt head or nut. We did disconnect the rudder pushrod and deflected the rudder as much as possible. We think we may have to remove some of the rudder material around the bolt head and nut to gain wrench access. Has anyone else had this problem when trying to remove the rudder? Chuck Zabinski |
#8
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I am not specifically familiar but look at this if you have time and expertise to work up a plan B:
"Shortly after I picked up a Glasflugel 304CZ 17m - nearly new - a similar EASA Directive was adopted by the FAA. This meant cutting up the tails on numerous models of aircraft to determine if the pushrods had drain holes. If not, then more surgery to remove them - good or bad - and replace the rods at several hundred dollars apiece. Plus time. Convinced not to cut up my glider for an unknown, I lost enough sleep to devise a method of unscrewing the upper rod-end bearing from the hollow push rod tube, and borescoping the innerds while photographing at 2" intervals on the way down. Maybe a dozen photos showed the perfect metal condition on an un-drilled rod. There was a manufacturer of surgical scopes nearby, and I borrowed a $50,000 dollar one. Then a small carbide twist drill was brazed in the end of a sized longer wire rod and a drain hole was drilled from the same upper access point. A small hose adapted to a vacuum removed all chips, a swab of cotton with epoxy primer and the inner lining of this tube was never to corrode in this lifetime. Tedious, but as close to a surgeon as I will ever get. This was a much different process than the EASA and FAA proposed "chop and repair" regardless of condition; which statistically compromised airworthiness by adding undetermined variables across airframes. I forwarded the process package to FAA and after reviewing with EASA Europe, I was issued the first AMOC Alternative Method Of Compliance for this concern." |
#9
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On Thursday, May 7, 2020 at 1:34:07 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 10:17:09 AM UTC-4, soaringjac wrote: See the link below http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-...rod_200408.pdf Our club has a Grob 102 Astir CS. We are having wrench access problems trying to remove the lower rudder bolt. We can't get a wrench on either the bolt head or nut. We did disconnect the rudder pushrod and deflected the rudder as much as possible. We think we may have to remove some of the rudder material around the bolt head and nut to gain wrench access. Has anyone else had this problem when trying to remove the rudder? Chuck Zabinski Do you have a photo of the lower hinge area that you can show us? I need to go look at mine, but im pretty sure there is already some space cutout of the rudder to access it |
#10
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Our Astir 102CS was a bit of a bugger to access. We removed the rudder, which was easy enough, but that pushrod lower clevis thru bolt was tough. It took two of us and a special long 1/4” drive wrench to remove and replace. We erred on the side of caution ahead of time and ordered a new one via Roger Mudd. Was north of $500. Turns out our original one was fine. Note that not all 103’s are affected—ours isn’t.
Larry Ruggiero, Carolina Soaring Assoc, Spartanburg SC |
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