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#1
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![]() For those who have not been following this DIY project, I am writing the details of what it takes to replace the seat covers, wall panels, and carpeting in a Cherokee 140 using Airtex "Premium" materials. This project is also "scope creeping" to include the interior plastic and other items that will look odd once the interior is refreshed. Day 30 (Plastic) Removed all of the window surround plastic several days ago. Had a small surprise. I discovered that the good folks who replaced the windshields several years ago were VERY generous with the adhesive. So much so that they managed to glue several pieces of plastic permanently to the windshield. Needless to say, removal required the destruction of the two top pieces. I ordered replacements to the tune of $44 each. I also finally received the correct center piece that goes between them (another $25). When I see how much trimming is going to be required for only 3 pieces, I am glad I am not replacing the entire interior plastic set! Inspecting the old plastic revealed huge (dis)coloration variations and some scratches put there by myself and previous owners as they removed the 20 or so ridiculous velcro dots used to secure a previous owner’s sun shields. Some had been glued on with a glue that turned very rigid and dark yellow. I wondered why these people did not just buy a COVER!!. I purchased new screw cover “buttons” for the plastic panels because the old ones kept falling out and were discolored. They are about $1.25 each and you only need 6 or so. I read quite a few posts on the Internet where folks raved about SEM paint. They also commented on its rather high price ($12/can). I also noticed that SEM states that their preparation primer is required. This would add additional work and expense. From my previous experience as a painter (autos, trucks, murals, etc.), I remembered that all the paint I used that was specially formulated for plastic stuck like iron if properly prepared. So, I looked around locally to see if I could find some spray can plastic paint that I would have confidence in. At the local Home Depot, there is a Rustoleum paint formulated for plastic that required no primer or special preparation. It cost about $4 a can. I emptied one full can for the Cherokee and used about 1/5 of the second one. Removing the panels was pretty straightforward, although the use of oversized screws here and there by previous owners will have to be addressed when I put in the new side panels. Removing the window surround on the door required the removal of the Piper top lock. No, you don’t remove the 3 big machine screws from the bottom of the latch as it appears. You instead take the 1 screw out of the top latch and the whole unit drops down. Once the lock is removed, the plastic panel can be removed. The aluminum lock panel will also have to be painted sometime later but it will require clear weather for me to leave the plane on the ramp with no top lock. To begin paint preparation, I sanded out the scratched areas. I figured that the smooth area left by sanding would not be very noticeable next to the textured areas because the texture was so fine. I was right. The final product looks very good unless you look carefully at about 4 inches. I also used a special super glue for plastic to weld any cracks back together. I prepared the plastic by first wiping off all dirt with a damp towel. Next I used adhesive remover, although I would normally use Prep-Sol (the adhesive remover stinks pretty bad). I then used a medium Scotch-Brite pad over the surfaces I wanted the paint to stick to. Finally, I wiped off all the sanding residue with a tack cloth. I laid all the parts out on a plastic tarp on the driveway to spray them. 4 coats later and all the discolored and yellowed plastic was brilliant white. 1 more coat on selected pieces finished off the job. I waited about 4-6 minutes between the first coats and less for the final coats. It is important to spray the first coat somewhat lightly and wait a good while for it to set. This avoids runs and “fish-eye” that can occur if you missed cleaning off any oil or grease (I did get some fish-eye in the first piece I tested – turns out there was a spot of oil on the Scotch-Brite pad!!). All pieces dried uniformly between gloss and semi-gloss. I did also paint the new parts to achieve uniform color. The plastic manufacturer recommended painting to achieve longer life. After drying overnight, most of the solvent smell was gone and the uniform finish emerged. Several days later, there is no solvent smell and the paint appears to be well adhered. Time will be the ultimate test. Now that the panels are nice and bright white, the discolored and yellowed window beading looks awful. I tried to find this stuff all over the place with no luck. Back to the Internet for another fleecing (30 feet at $2/ft.). The replacement stuff is thinner and more workable than the original Piper stuff. It is also as white as the painted plastic. I received a small piece when I purchased the center plastic piece. It should look very good with the new paint on the panels. Before putting the plastic back in, I will tackle the headliner dye job and report on the results in the next installment. Seat covers and wall panels have not arrived yet. Interestingly, Airtex has not hit my credit card yet, even though they sent the carpet set a month ago. On a call to them they explained they don’t charge until the last piece ships. The representative told me they have few problems with folks not paying. Most other upholstery shops required something like ½ or 1/3 up front when I talked to them. Overall, I like the early results I am seeing even though this is taking much longer than I was expecting. In reality, I have not done more than about 3-4 hours of total work. Most of the time is spent waiting for something to arrive, cure, or dry. The weather is not exactly cooperating with 50-degree days and rain. But hey! If the weather was great, I would want to go flying! End of Day 30 |
#2
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Overall, I like the early results I am seeing even though this is taking
much longer than I was expecting. In reality, I have not done more than about 3-4 hours of total work. Most of the time is spent waiting for something to arrive, cure, or dry. The weather is not exactly cooperating with 50-degree days and rain. But hey! If the weather was great, I would want to go flying! 3-4 hours in 30 days? Sounds like you're ready to open your own shop! ;-) -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#3
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Well, as long as he remembers the difference between work and billable
hours. |
#4
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I did the same with a '78 Lance last spring while the plane was in for
annual. The culmination of a 2 1/2 year restoration after the new panel & paint was a new interior. I bought the whole set from Airtex - even flew to TTN to their installation shop to see how it's done. I gutted the interior including plastic trim (dingy yellow) which had to be glued to fix the cracks and painted to match the new interior color. Carpets, side panels, seat covers were all redone. Only thing that wasn't touched was the headliner as it was in great shape. I had a lot of help from one of the shop guys, and it came out quite nice. A LOT of work, and no I don't think I'd want to do it again. Will |
#5
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The thing about this project is that I don't FEEL rushed to do stuff. I
wait until I want to do some work and then do it. Since the weather is lousy, I don't worry about taking my time to thoroughly research various aspects of the job. During that 30 days, I probably spent 20 or so hours lurking around upholstery shops, on the Net, and on the phone with various folks. I suspect once the panels and seat covers arrive I should be able to get to a higher gear. See Ya, Mike Jay Honeck wrote: Overall, I like the early results I am seeing even though this is taking much longer than I was expecting. In reality, I have not done more than about 3-4 hours of total work. Most of the time is spent waiting for something to arrive, cure, or dry. The weather is not exactly cooperating with 50-degree days and rain. But hey! If the weather was great, I would want to go flying! 3-4 hours in 30 days? Sounds like you're ready to open your own shop! ;-) |
#6
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revdmv wrote:
Well, as long as he remembers the difference between work and billable hours. There's a difference???? Hell, don't tell my clients! |
#7
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Mike, I used the SEM paint without a primer when I did the interior of my
Seneca. I "cleaned" the surfaces with mineral spirits, and let them dry overnight. Results were great. I bought the paint from an auto body supplier, who recommended "Marhide" brand paint as well as SEM. You mentioned Home Depot? When I had to repaint the metal frames of my seats, I used spray paint by Krylon called"Colorworks", which I bought from HD. This part was the most tedious of the whole interior project. Paint was easy to apply, and took 3 coats to change color from "Avacodo" to Tan. In doing the front seats, I requested replacement slings from Airtex. Don Stretch, who was very helpful, suggested Dacron. He recommended using the contact cement to install it. It held up well. "Mike Spera" wrote in message k.net... For those who have not been following this DIY project, I am writing the details of what it takes to replace the seat covers, wall panels, and carpeting in a Cherokee 140 using Airtex "Premium" materials. This project is also "scope creeping" to include the interior plastic and other items that will look odd once the interior is refreshed. Day 30 (Plastic) Removed all of the window surround plastic several days ago. Had a small surprise. I discovered that the good folks who replaced the windshields several years ago were VERY generous with the adhesive. So much so that they managed to glue several pieces of plastic permanently to the windshield. Needless to say, removal required the destruction of the two top pieces. I ordered replacements to the tune of $44 each. I also finally received the correct center piece that goes between them (another $25). When I see how much trimming is going to be required for only 3 pieces, I am glad I am not replacing the entire interior plastic set! Inspecting the old plastic revealed huge (dis)coloration variations and some scratches put there by myself and previous owners as they removed the 20 or so ridiculous velcro dots used to secure a previous owner’s sun shields. Some had been glued on with a glue that turned very rigid and dark yellow. I wondered why these people did not just buy a COVER!!. I purchased new screw cover “buttons” for the plastic panels because the old ones kept falling out and were discolored. They are about $1.25 each and you only need 6 or so. I read quite a few posts on the Internet where folks raved about SEM paint. They also commented on its rather high price ($12/can). I also noticed that SEM states that their preparation primer is required. This would add additional work and expense. From my previous experience as a painter (autos, trucks, murals, etc.), I remembered that all the paint I used that was specially formulated for plastic stuck like iron if properly prepared. So, I looked around locally to see if I could find some spray can plastic paint that I would have confidence in. At the local Home Depot, there is a Rustoleum paint formulated for plastic that required no primer or special preparation. It cost about $4 a can. I emptied one full can for the Cherokee and used about 1/5 of the second one. Removing the panels was pretty straightforward, although the use of oversized screws here and there by previous owners will have to be addressed when I put in the new side panels. Removing the window surround on the door required the removal of the Piper top lock. No, you don’t remove the 3 big machine screws from the bottom of the latch as it appears. You instead take the 1 screw out of the top latch and the whole unit drops down. Once the lock is removed, the plastic panel can be removed. The aluminum lock panel will also have to be painted sometime later but it will require clear weather for me to leave the plane on the ramp with no top lock. To begin paint preparation, I sanded out the scratched areas. I figured that the smooth area left by sanding would not be very noticeable next to the textured areas because the texture was so fine. I was right. The final product looks very good unless you look carefully at about 4 inches. I also used a special super glue for plastic to weld any cracks back together. I prepared the plastic by first wiping off all dirt with a damp towel. Next I used adhesive remover, although I would normally use Prep-Sol (the adhesive remover stinks pretty bad). I then used a medium Scotch-Brite pad over the surfaces I wanted the paint to stick to. Finally, I wiped off all the sanding residue with a tack cloth. I laid all the parts out on a plastic tarp on the driveway to spray them. 4 coats later and all the discolored and yellowed plastic was brilliant white. 1 more coat on selected pieces finished off the job. I waited about 4-6 minutes between the first coats and less for the final coats. It is important to spray the first coat somewhat lightly and wait a good while for it to set. This avoids runs and “fish-eye” that can occur if you missed cleaning off any oil or grease (I did get some fish-eye in the first piece I tested – turns out there was a spot of oil on the Scotch-Brite pad!!). All pieces dried uniformly between gloss and semi-gloss. I did also paint the new parts to achieve uniform color. The plastic manufacturer recommended painting to achieve longer life. After drying overnight, most of the solvent smell was gone and the uniform finish emerged. Several days later, there is no solvent smell and the paint appears to be well adhered. Time will be the ultimate test. Now that the panels are nice and bright white, the discolored and yellowed window beading looks awful. I tried to find this stuff all over the place with no luck. Back to the Internet for another fleecing (30 feet at $2/ft.). The replacement stuff is thinner and more workable than the original Piper stuff. It is also as white as the painted plastic. I received a small piece when I purchased the center plastic piece. It should look very good with the new paint on the panels. Before putting the plastic back in, I will tackle the headliner dye job and report on the results in the next installment. Seat covers and wall panels have not arrived yet. Interestingly, Airtex has not hit my credit card yet, even though they sent the carpet set a month ago. On a call to them they explained they don’t charge until the last piece ships. The representative told me they have few problems with folks not paying. Most other upholstery shops required something like ½ or 1/3 up front when I talked to them. Overall, I like the early results I am seeing even though this is taking much longer than I was expecting. In reality, I have not done more than about 3-4 hours of total work. Most of the time is spent waiting for something to arrive, cure, or dry. The weather is not exactly cooperating with 50-degree days and rain. But hey! If the weather was great, I would want to go flying! End of Day 30 |
#8
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I ordered the seat foundation fabric directly from Airtex as well as new
seat foam. I did not feel like chasing around for this kind of stuff. They are using a generic brand of "Sunbrella". They too walked me through the process of installing it. Mike .. In doing the front seats, I requested replacement slings from Airtex. Don Stretch, who was very helpful, suggested Dacron. He recommended using the contact cement to install it. It held up well. "Mike Spera" wrote in message k.net... |
#9
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Mike: You know, of course, that when you get done with the project, you'll
be careful about letting anyone in your plane who might spill something, or smear something. You wouldn't want an A&P decorating your new seat covers with Aeroshell No. 7 now! ![]() "Mike Spera" wrote in message k.net... I ordered the seat foundation fabric directly from Airtex as well as new seat foam. I did not feel like chasing around for this kind of stuff. They are using a generic brand of "Sunbrella". They too walked me through the process of installing it. Mike . In doing the front seats, I requested replacement slings from Airtex. Don Stretch, who was very helpful, suggested Dacron. He recommended using the contact cement to install it. It held up well. "Mike Spera" wrote in message k.net... |
#10
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![]() On 27-Apr-2005, Mike Spera wrote: I read quite a few posts on the Internet where folks raved about SEM paint. They also commented on its rather high price ($12/can). I also noticed that SEM states that their preparation primer is required. This would add additional work and expense. From my previous experience as a painter (autos, trucks, murals, etc.), I remembered that all the paint I used that was specially formulated for plastic stuck like iron if properly prepared. So, I looked around locally to see if I could find some spray can plastic paint that I would have confidence in. At the local Home Depot, there is a Rustoleum paint formulated for plastic that required no primer or special preparation. It cost about $4 a can. I emptied one full can for the Cherokee and used about 1/5 of the second one. We recently needed to paint new and existing plastic parts in our Arrow. I looked at the Rustoleum paint you mention, but it is only available in a handful of colors, none of which were anywhere close to being workable for our interior color scheme. The SEM paint, by contrast, is available in about 30 colors, including the two we needed. We applied the SEM spray without using any primer, but we did use their recommended spray-on cleaner as a prep for both new and old parts. The paint went on and bonded beautifully, with absolutely no drips or other flaws. We applied 3 light coats, with about 10 minutes between coats. Parts were totally dry in less than an hour. Part of our good results may be due to our working in an enclosed hangar, in totally still air. Spraying outdoors might introduce some challenges. We paid a total of about $40 for two cans of SEM paint and the prep cleaner, including sales tax. Negligible considering the cost of the new parts we were installing. -- -Elliott Drucker |
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