AC motor voltage conversion?

For sale is an aircompressor which required 220v.
Seller states he will convert it to run on 110v.
How will he do that and what are the disadvantages?
Will the motor pull 2x the current? - Mike

mhorowit wrote:
For sale is an aircompressor which required 220v.
Seller states he will convert it to run on 110v.
How will he do that and what are the disadvantages?
Will the motor pull 2x the current? - Mike


Depending on the motor, it may be as simple as
changing a connection inside the control box.
Many units are built to run on either 110V or 220V
with the voltage setting configured at installation.

At 110V, the motor will pull 2x the current that
it does at 220V, and that is normal.

Don W.

At 110V, the motor will pull 2x the current that
it does at 220V, and that is normal.

Which is why they wire them for 220. It can be a lot.
If you can get 220v to the location, you will be a happy
camper.

Bill Hale

Don W wrote:
mhorowit wrote:
For sale is an aircompressor which required 220v.
Seller states he will convert it to run on 110v.
How will he do that and what are the disadvantages?
Will the motor pull 2x the current? - Mike


Depending on the motor, it may be as simple as
changing a connection inside the control box.
Many units are built to run on either 110V or 220V
with the voltage setting configured at installation.

At 110V, the motor will pull 2x the current that
it does at 220V, and that is normal.

Don W.

Don W wrote:
mhorowit wrote:
For sale is an aircompressor which required 220v.
Seller states he will convert it to run on 110v.
How will he do that and what are the disadvantages?
Will the motor pull 2x the current? - Mike


Depending on the motor, it may be as simple as
changing a connection inside the control box.
Many units are built to run on either 110V or 220V
with the voltage setting configured at installation.

At 110V, the motor will pull 2x the current that
it does at 220V, and that is normal.

Don W.

" wrote

Which is why they wire them for 220. It can be a lot.
If you can get 220v to the location, you will be a happy
camper.

I have such an air compressor, and it likes 220 the best. g

It starts quicker, and runs a little cooler, when running continuously. It is
possible to run it on a longer extension cord (made up for 220, of course)
without line loss being such an issue.

I have made up an assortment of pigtails to plug into dryer outlets, and welder
outlets. Yes, it is not protecting at the correct amps, but monitored, it is
not much of an issue, I think. A dead short will still kick even a 50 amp
breaker.

If yours is like mine, it pulls almost 15 amps running, and more at start. It
is necessary to have it's own circuit, if you want to run much else with it on
the same circuit.

My vote? Put up with the inconvenience (at times when you are using it away
from the shop) and run it on 220. It should last longer, and be happier.

The wire configuration for both voltages should be pictured on the data plate,
or on the cover where the terminals are, that need to be changed.
--
Jim in NC

"Morgans" wrote

If yours is like mine, it pulls almost 15 amps running, and more at start.

I should have included 15 amps running "on 110" to be more precise.
--
Jim in NC

Why does everyone think the voltage is 110/220??

If that actually was the voltage you had in your house you'd be very
unhappy. The nominal voltage is 118/236 with a +/- 5% range so you can
see that 110/220 is actually outside the acceptable range.

John

Morgans wrote:

" wrote

Which is why they wire them for 220. It can be a lot.
If you can get 220v to the location, you will be a happy
camper.


I have such an air compressor, and it likes 220 the best. g

It starts quicker, and runs a little cooler, when running continuously.
It is possible to run it on a longer extension cord (made up for 220, of
course) without line loss being such an issue.

I have made up an assortment of pigtails to plug into dryer outlets, and
welder outlets. Yes, it is not protecting at the correct amps, but
monitored, it is not much of an issue, I think. A dead short will still
kick even a 50 amp breaker.

If yours is like mine, it pulls almost 15 amps running, and more at
start. It is necessary to have it's own circuit, if you want to run
much else with it on the same circuit.

My vote? Put up with the inconvenience (at times when you are using it
away from the shop) and run it on 220. It should last longer, and be
happier.

The wire configuration for both voltages should be pictured on the data
plate, or on the cover where the terminals are, that need to be changed.

On Fri, 17 Nov 2006 19:08:34 -0800, John Ammeter
wrote:

Why does everyone think the voltage is 110/220??

If that actually was the voltage you had in your house you'd be very
unhappy. The nominal voltage is 118/236 with a +/- 5% range so you can
see that 110/220 is actually outside the acceptable range.

John

I remember back in the fifties in vo-ag farm electrification class, it
was emphasized that you should make sure light bulbs were labeled for
120 volt. Perhaps prior to that they were rated 110 or 115? Maybe that
was the line voltage then. What is your take on it?

--Andy Asberry recommends NewsGuy--

Leave it set up for 220 and rig yourself up an outlet to plug it into.
The standard residential wiring configuration is for 220 Volts with a
neutral (3 wires). The normal 110 Volt outlets are connected between
one side or the other of the Line and the neutral. Connect from one
side of the Line to the other and you get 220V. If your house is wired
for an electric dryer you have a 220V outlet already - though it may
not be where you want to use the compressor. Get an extension cord with
compatible connectors or have an electrician install a 220V outlet
where you want to use the compressor. If using an existing outlet,
check to ensure that the breaker and wiring are rated for the current
draw of the compressor.

"John Ammeter" wrote in message
...
Why does everyone think the voltage is 110/220??

If that actually was the voltage you had in your house you'd be very unhappy.
The nominal voltage is 118/236 with a +/- 5% range so you can see that 110/220
is actually outside the acceptable range.

Well, duh, John!

Why is a car called a car?

People (except you and a few others) don't really care what comes squirting out
of their wall plugs, and what to call it, as long as it makes things work.

It isn't 120/240 either. It is way too awkward to call it 118/236, even though
that is most accurate. Calling it 110/220 gets the idea across... Let the
electrical engineers and others that get hung up on exactly what it is, figure
out how to fight convention.

To me, it's still 110/220.

Now, let's get really weird, and figure out what comes out of the plugs at my
school. Three phase, split off to use single phase, now is it Delta or Y? 95%
of the people in the US don't know and don't care. What will they call that
208?
--
Jim in NC