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#1
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We had our archer II painted in 1996, including a clearcoat. About 6 -
12 months ago the clear coat started peeling just a little, almost exclusively on the control surfaces. (They were removed and painted separately, so it makes sense they behaved slightly differently. Now though, the clear coat is peeling in quite a few places, especially the elevator and outer wing. Other the the peeling clearcoat, the paint is in pretty good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations for ways to 'fix' the clearcoat without a relatively complete paint job.?? I'd like to get some good ideas before talking to a shop. Thanks!! Mike Pvt/IFR PA28-181 N44979 at KRYY -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#2
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![]() Mike, The auto industry has had major problems with clearcoat over the years. The problem is related to the sun's UV rays destroying the bond between the color and clear coat paint layers. Once started I don't think there is much that can be done to stop the process. The current technology has UV blockers in the clear coat along with other changes to the paint system which has pretty much fixed things. Repainting is the only real solution..... Regards, Jerry |
#3
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Yikes. This is a tough one. It happens sometimes seemingly without reason.
There are a few possible causes (in order of likelihood): * This paint job may be at the end of its reasonable life expectations. Especially if a heavy clear topcoat was applied (via many coats at the owner's request), 10 years is actually a great run for a clear job. This is especially true if the plane was kept outside, double for Southern California or Florida. Heavy clear jobs usually fail much sooner on custom auto paint jobs that are used as "daily drivers". What kind of paint is it? In '96, acrylic lacquer was still available. If it is a lacquer job, you got a great life out of it. * the base paint was not meant to have clear over it. Most paint recommended for aviation use is single stage (no clear topcoat) urethane. The specific paint brand may have a clear, but if you read the instructions, it is only recommended for "custom" finishes and there are ample warnings about peeling, cracking, and crazing. I have not followed paint for may years, so this may have changed. There are several common automotive paint systems today that are 2 stage (base with clear topcoats). But I recall the brands commonly used on airplanes were and are single stage. * the shop used a different clear brand than the base. It happens. Some shops think that all urethane paints are compatible so they use whatever clear they have. Some clears have better spray properties than others. Some guys use the same clear that they know will flow out like glass. Unfortunately, they may not be fully compatible over the long haul with the base. * the clear topcoats were applied incorrectly over the base coats. When putting clear over a base, there are specific maximum "recoat" times that you must follow. Some shops will paint the base, wait a day and paint the second base color or some stripe color, then wait another day and paint the last stripe color. After all this, they may wait an additional 1/2 day and clear over the whole thing. Some paint requires that recoating requires a scuff sand. It may not have been done. Some paints prohibit recoating between 24 hours and 1 month. * the clear was out of date or contaminated. Old paint, especially paint that has been exposed to freezing or near freezing temps can turn unpredictable. Airplane hangars are expensive to heat 24/7. Some shops turn off the heat or turn it way down when there are no paint jobs to do or everyone has gone home. If the paint is stored in the same hangar, it will get too cold to use. Clear may be bought in bulk if they do a lot of clear jobs. That increases the chances of contamination or freezing. But, if it stuck for 10 years, this is not very likely. * Just bad luck. Paint is not perfect. Bad batches do happen. Unfortunately, there are enough variables that most paint companies won't stand behind the stuff is things go south. Yours has the added challenge of time. If they do cover you, they may only replace the paint itself. You get stuck with the labor. In that case, it is not fair to try to get the shop to eat it. On the other hand, if you can pin the shop down to one of the improper application or storage methods above, you might chase after them . But, like I said, after 10 years, you are probably stuck with the total bill. What can you do about it? Nothing besides a strip and repaint. If you try to sand the finish and feather the edges, you MAY get a clear recoat to stick. But that may be impossible to make look good, especially at the edges. Chances are excellent that the original will keep peeling. Good luck, Mike We had our archer II painted in 1996, including a clearcoat. About 6 - 12 months ago the clear coat started peeling just a little, almost exclusively on the control surfaces. (They were removed and painted separately, so it makes sense they behaved slightly differently. Now though, the clear coat is peeling in quite a few places, especially the elevator and outer wing. Other the the peeling clearcoat, the paint is in pretty good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations for ways to 'fix' the clearcoat without a relatively complete paint job.?? I'd like to get some good ideas before talking to a shop. Thanks!! Mike Pvt/IFR PA28-181 N44979 at KRYY |
#4
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![]() Mike wrote: We had our archer II painted in 1996, including a clearcoat. About 6 - 12 months ago the clear coat started peeling just a little, almost exclusively on the control surfaces. (They were removed and painted separately, so it makes sense they behaved slightly differently. Now though, the clear coat is peeling in quite a few places, especially the elevator and outer wing. Other the the peeling clearcoat, the paint is in pretty good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations for ways to 'fix' the clearcoat without a relatively complete paint job.?? I'd like to get some good ideas before talking to a shop. Thanks!! Mike Pvt/IFR PA28-181 N44979 at KRYY I'm in the same boat with my Mooney. Every shop I go to just cringes when they see that someone put clearcoat in an airplane. Apparently its common for cars but generally considered quite hill-billy for airplanes (the proper technique being to mix it in with the paint). However, the good news is that after the initial horror of the peeling, it will start to look much, much better. Once the clear coat is gone you are left with nice paint. -Robert |
#5
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![]() "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message oups.com... Mike wrote: We had our archer II painted in 1996, including a clearcoat. About 6 - 12 months ago the clear coat started peeling just a little, almost exclusively on the control surfaces. (They were removed and painted separately, so it makes sense they behaved slightly differently. Now though, the clear coat is peeling in quite a few places, especially the elevator and outer wing. Other the the peeling clearcoat, the paint is in pretty good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations for ways to 'fix' the clearcoat without a relatively complete paint job.?? I'd like to get some good ideas before talking to a shop. Thanks!! Mike Pvt/IFR PA28-181 N44979 at KRYY I'm in the same boat with my Mooney. Every shop I go to just cringes when they see that someone put clearcoat in an airplane. Apparently its common for cars but generally considered quite hill-billy for airplanes (the proper technique being to mix it in with the paint). I don't think you'll find any major paint manufacturer that recommends mixing the clear coat with the color coat. Paint systems are either single stage (no clear coat) or two stage, in which the second "stage" is a clear coat. However, the good news is that after the initial horror of the peeling, it will start to look much, much better. Once the clear coat is gone you are left with nice paint. The clear coat provides UV protection and gloss. On two stage systems, the color coat doesn't hold up well once the clear peels off. -Robert KB |
#6
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![]() Kyle Boatright wrote: "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message I don't think you'll find any major paint manufacturer that recommends mixing the clear coat with the color coat. Paint systems are either single stage (no clear coat) or two stage, in which the second "stage" is a clear coat. Correct, clear cost is the wrong product to use on aircraft, according to the paint shops I've spoken too. Its considered quiet hill-billy. |
#7
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![]() Kyle Boatright wrote: "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message I don't think you'll find any major paint manufacturer that recommends mixing the clear coat with the color coat. Paint systems are either single stage (no clear coat) or two stage, in which the second "stage" is a clear coat. Correct, clear cost is the wrong product to use on aircraft, according to the paint shops I've spoken too. Its considered quiet hill-billy. |
#8
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![]() "Kyle Boatright" wrote in message . .. "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message oups.com... Mike wrote: We had our archer II painted in 1996, including a clearcoat. About 6 - 12 months ago the clear coat started peeling just a little, almost exclusively on the control surfaces. (They were removed and painted separately, so it makes sense they behaved slightly differently. Now though, the clear coat is peeling in quite a few places, especially the elevator and outer wing. Other the the peeling clearcoat, the paint is in pretty good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations for ways to 'fix' the clearcoat without a relatively complete paint job.?? I'd like to get some good ideas before talking to a shop. Thanks!! Mike Pvt/IFR PA28-181 N44979 at KRYY I'm in the same boat with my Mooney. Every shop I go to just cringes when they see that someone put clearcoat in an airplane. Apparently its common for cars but generally considered quite hill-billy for airplanes (the proper technique being to mix it in with the paint). I don't think you'll find any major paint manufacturer that recommends mixing the clear coat with the color coat. Paint systems are either single stage (no clear coat) or two stage, in which the second "stage" is a clear coat. House of Kolor recommends doing just that. It provides a finish between a single and two stage job. |
#9
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![]() Dave Stadt wrote: "Kyle Boatright" wrote in message . .. House of Kolor recommends doing just that. It provides a finish between a single and two stage job. Just curious, is this just for darks or all colors? -Robert |
#10
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![]() "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message s.com... Dave Stadt wrote: "Kyle Boatright" wrote in message . .. House of Kolor recommends doing just that. It provides a finish between a single and two stage job. Just curious, is this just for darks or all colors? -Robert I only have experience with black for which they recommend up to 50 percent clear in the last coat for added depth, gloss and color. |
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