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Intermittent problem with an Aerospace Logic VA-100 Volt & Amp
indicator. Volt side works at all times and is accurate, amp side works properly occasionally but more often than not displays -0.0 amps. When it does work it indicates charges and discharges properly. Unit supposedly shipped with a 60A/50mV shunt. Aircraft has a 60A alternator. Unit measures mV change across shunt. Red side of shunt from battery / Black side to buss Twisted pair from indicator, red to red side of shunt, black to black side of shunt. Black wire from indicator to ground White wire from indicator to rheostat for back lighting Blue wire for 28v system not used. Instrument set up for 60A, high and low limits within the proper range. When amps fail to indicate, battery only will not show a discharge and engine running w/alternator output will not show a charge. Both cases indicate -0.0. No change with a change in load, it will continue to indicate -0.0. Any experience or thoughts? Thanks, Jim |
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Thanks Matt. I tried to post a link to the site, but it was down.
Sorry I failed to mention the red power wire. There's a note in the install manual that says if you need to shorten the twisted pair, to cut the pair coming from the shunt, do not cut the pair that is attached to the indicator. We didn't cut either, but what difference would it make? It also mentions routing the twisted pair away from other wire bundles "if possible". Well, in this install, the indicator is on the opposite side of the panel from the shunt, and unless we leave it hanging, the twisted pair has to be routed along the other wire bundles. There is simply no room or other route available. I would think that interference problems would be consistent and repeatable. This appears totally random and either -0.0 or accurate. Thanks again. Jim |
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In rec.aviation.owning Jim Burns wrote:
There's a note in the install manual that says if you need to shorten the twisted pair, to cut the pair coming from the shunt, do not cut the pair that is attached to the indicator. We didn't cut either, but what difference would it make? I don't know for sure. Possibly the connector used at the indicator end is harder to take apart and reassemble than the connectors used at the shunt end. Or maybe they prefer for the wires to be untwisted or more loosely twisted at the shunt end, rather than the indicator end. It also mentions routing the twisted pair away from other wire bundles "if possible". Mainly this is to prevent other wires from inducing a current into the twisted pair. The signal in the twisted pair isn't very large; at 60 A charge or discharge it will only be 50 millivolts (0.05 V) at maybe a milliamp or two. This is comparable to microphone level audio, and you might be familiar with how easily that picks up electrical noise. I would think that interference problems would be consistent and repeatable. Probably true. The catch is that to create interference, you'd need to turn a big electrical load on or off, which will change the ammeter display anyway even if things are working right. One way to check for interference would be to disconnect the twisted pair wires at the shunt and connect them directly to each other and to nothing else. In this case the ammeter should always read 0.0 A; any other reading indicates interference. This appears totally random and either -0.0 or accurate. I agree that this isn't consistent with interference; it's more like a broken wire or loose connector that's either making contact or not. Matt Roberds Disclaimer: This is based on experience with ground vehicles. I don't have an A&P; I don't even have a TG&Y. Some of this may not be allowable owner maintenance. Your mileage may vary. |
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